Is the G2/G3 the only non-metal P60 host available?

[pc_light]

I'd like to know about the above as well.

Dan

I don't know about tailcaps but the switch (a reverse clicky) has lasted several years of light use thus far.

I'm sure there are replacement switches that will fit but I can say with certainty that a McClicky doesn't fit, I tried just now out of curiousity . But why would one want to, the switch would cost more than an entire light and I wouldn't recommend pumping much current through the non-metallist host. I've got a XP-L2 P60 drop-in with 1.2A max in mine, anything more go into a metallic host.

Here FYI is what the switch parts look like -

FWIW, Illumn also stocks a Nextorch kit for just $7 more that includes a budget 18650 battery and charger assembly. That's the package I first got, figuring that if the light was junk I could still justify getting the battery and wall wart. To my surprise the llght wasn't a half bad budget host.

 

[Fireclaw18]

I think the problem is that 'plastic' flashlights have a very poor reputation, and also do not have the 'tacticool' value of metal flashlights (despite there being some truly dreadful metal flashlights with threads that have been cut with an axe). My tan-coloured Surefire G2 Nitrolon is the only light I've regretted giving away; I just didn't appreciate its value at the time.

I wonder if the problem is heat. Incandescent flashlight create heat, but most of it is emitted out the front.

LEDs create heat too, but that heat mostly transfers through the back of the LED and into the flashlight guts. Higher powered lights then need a path to conduct that heat through the interior of the flashlight to the exterior. A metal body works well for this. A plastic body, not so much. Plastic tends to conduct heat very poorly.

I suppose you could still make an entirely plastic body flashlight, but it would probably have quite low maximum output.

 

[ZMZ67]

Thanks for the info pc light!

 

[flatline]

I wonder if the problem is heat. Incandescent flashlight create heat, but most of it is emitted out the front.

LEDs create heat too, but that heat mostly transfers through the back of the LED and into the flashlight guts. Higher powered lights then need a path to conduct that heat through the interior of the flashlight to the exterior. A metal body works well for this. A plastic body, not so much. Plastic tends to conduct heat very poorly.

I suppose you could still make an entirely plastic body flashlight, but it would probably have quite low maximum output.

I'm sure you're correct about heat being the constraining issue when you're pushing 300+ lumens, but a modern LED can do 60 lumens without much heat at all. 60 is perfect for my needs and so a low power module in a light weight non-metal host is very appealing to me.

--flatline

 

[KBobAries]

I don't know about tailcaps but the switch (a reverse clicky) has lasted several years of light use thus far.

I'm sure there are replacement switches that will fit but I can say with certainty that a McClicky doesn't fit, I tried just now out of curiousity...

...Here FYI is what the switch parts look like -

...

Thanks for trying the McClicky test fit and photo.

Dan

 

[lumen aeternum]

I have a Nitrolon G2, and I thought that the usual P60 stuff would not fit for some reason.
Wouldn't mind upping it to a higher output.
Do you need to replace the entire head, or is there a drop-in module?

 

[novice]

lumen aeternum,
AFAIK (and somebody correct me if I'm wrong), it was only the last production version of the G2 that had the "sealed" KX4 led bezel. I think that all other versions before that had the "empty" bezel that allowed you to swap light engines. Once you are looking at a certain higher level of brightness in an led module, you might want to consider getting an aluminum Z44 bezel. That would help dissipate heat, which would help protect the led from overheating. The Malkoff M61, for example, strongly suggests using an aluminum bezel if you are going to use that module in a G2/G3, but both the -L and -LL versions should be okay in an all-nitrolon light. There are some extremely hard-driven led modules out there, and you might want to check with the manufacturers/sellers before you use those in a G2, even if you do have an aluminum bezel. Sometimes the bezel does not screw down all the way with some P60 modules in the G2/G3, and there can be a slight gap, but the drop-in fits.

 

[SG688]

My Nitrolon post would probably be better here: Blackhawk X6P and X9P. P60 and SF thread compatible. Forward clickie tail cap.