is there a p60 3 x AA host?

waddup

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Oct 29, 2008
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im thinking about buying a couple of p60 dropins, and would like to use a 3xAA host if it exhists ?.
 
FiveMega made a run of 3xAA bodies with built-in tailcaps. They were sold first by CPFer Nite in the Customs/Mod forum, then by Lighthound. I think only 15 were made; I own 3 of them. Unfortunately, they sold out in late 2009 and no more will be made, nor will FiveMega's 2xAA body. I believe Lighthound still has a few of FiveMega's 1xAA bodies; one lives on my keyring.

As far as I know, the only way to configure a 3xAA these days is to start with a Dereelight Javelin 2xAA and add the 1xAA extender. You might be able to Lego a FiveMega 3x18500 (19.1mm inner diameter) body or (if he makes it) Leef 3x18500 and use a length of inner tubing to keep the AAs from rattling. I tried to build a 4xAA, using a 3x18650 FiveMega; it was about 7mm too long and using spacers was a hassle.
 
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Yeap, +1 to what Paul said.

You gotta watch the forums here, stuff people put up for sale may be easily available for a while, and very hard to get later.

The Fivemega hosts took a while to sell, but if that's your thing, you needed to get into the act!
 
It is also possible to start with a SureFire 6P, and add an A19 extender (to make it a 'virtual' 9P), or just start out with a 9P. That makes it the right length for 2xAA. Then you add a SF A14. That is the extender to turn the 6P into a 6R rechargeable (for using the SF B65 nicad battery stick). When you add the A14 to the 3xCR123a length, it makes it the right length for 3xAA. The A14 isn't EXACTLY the same length as an AA cell (it's just a smidge longer), but you can play around with it and make it work.
I am using a similar setup for a dog-walking light (although I've got a backup light with me). I just recently decided to finally get into some rechargeables, and I'm starting with NiMH AA Sanyo Eneloops. Since I'm not doing rechargeable lithiums yet, I'm trying to be creative with the Eneloops, and I want to acquaint myself more with incandescents, since I have plenty of led lights. I've got a P60 in a SF 6P + A19 + A14 + A14 running off of 4x'1.2 volt' Eneloops. It's a bit long, and the connectivity is a little bit funky, and I've got 2 o-rings that I dropped into the regular 6P bezel against the lens, to force the P60 back towards the battery contacts as much as I can. Since this isn't 'mission-critical' usage, it seems to work okay. You may need to play with the tailcap 'setback' some. Being new at this, I actually started out with 5 Eneloops end-to-end, and blew the '6 volt' P60, since I assumed 1.2 meant 1.2, when it turns out you can actually charge Eneloops up to about 1.4 volts, and since the P60 should be thought of more as being 5 volts, since the 2xCR123a voltage drops quickly 'under load'. Somebody correct me if I am using the technical terminology incorrectly.
I also have a Malkoff M60LL in a G3 FYL body, running off of 2xAA lithium L91 primaries (for 18 hours of regulated runtime), and another SF lego with an M2 bezel and tailcap, and a 6P body + A19 + A14 on 3xAA lithium L91 primaries, to run a Malkoff M60WLL for 'only' 12 regulated hours, but at a brighter output. The surprisingly versatile performance characteristics of the M60LL driver has been discussed in various threads on CPF.
The AA cells do rattle around some. In the SFs that I am using primary cells in, I went to the hardware store and got some black vinyl tubing. I can't remember the size. It fits in the internal diameter of the 6P no problem, but is a tight fit over the AAs, so I just cut a very thin 'donut' section that I can just barely fit on each end of each battery.
If you are going to start using rechargeable AA cells, just be sure to keep in mind the difference between the total voltage of the rechargeables vs. the total voltage of the primaries. A lego setup that is pushing the limits with the number of rechargeables being used, might be enough to blow something if you take out the rechargeables, and then just drop in primaries without taking an extender off.
 
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M302.jpg


Above is FiveMega 3xAA with Malkoff M30, below is Leef 3x123 with M60LL.

Yes, as pointed out earlier, the 3x123 body will run on 2xAA cells. Only thing is, I had to grind down the M60LL module for a tight fit, otherwise AAs had trouble making contact, it was intermittent, shake it and it goes off. After filing off excess metal for a tight fit, it's nice now.
 
Solarforce L2r - 2*AA

High Compatibility
The Tactical Head and Body tube is compatible to Surefire 6P 9P, you can purchase the Body for replace the parts or DIY your Surefire flashlight.
 
Solarforce L2r - 2*AA

High Compatibility
The Tactical Head and Body tube is compatible to Surefire 6P 9P, you can purchase the Body for replace the parts or DIY your Surefire flashlight.

That does look pretty interesting. I like the recessed switch better than the one on the FM body, which can be easily turned on.

How do you control modes?
 
Personally I wish someone like FM would make a "Fat Boy" body roughly the same thickness as a Mag body that can screw on a P60 Head for a 3AA configuration. It might be a bit pricey considering you've got to get an FM or mdocod 3AA battery adapter, but for some reason I know I wouldn't mind having a short fat flashlight. Plus you could use the body with C format compatible turbo heads like the Solarforce Masterpiece Pro 1. I'm not too fond of the length of a 3AA back to back flashlight like the Javelin.
 
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Re: Solarforce AA vs FiveMega AA

That does look pretty interesting. I like the recessed switch better than the one on the FM body, which can be easily turned on.

How do you control modes?
I own both brands in 2xAA. The Solarforce is surprisingly sturdy, beefy, heavy, and well-made; I like its flat sides, too. Its reverse clicky feels cheap, but you can change modes by simply clicking it rapidly to cycle from mode to mode.

I should post comparison photos, but now that the rare FiveMega 2xAA can't be bought for love or money, few readers would benefit.
 
I also have a Malkoff M60LL in a G3 FYL body, running off of 2xAA lithium L91 primaries (for 18 hours of regulated runtime), and another SF lego with an M2 bezel and tailcap, and a 6P body + A19 + A14 on 3xAA lithium L91 primaries, to run a Malkoff M60WLL for 'only' 12 regulated hours, but at a brighter output. The surprisingly versatile performance characteristics of the M60LL driver has been discussed in various threads on CPF.


I like that, I run M60LL in 3xAA body by FiveMega or a 9P clone. Are you saying that 2xAA has better runtime but less lumens? I thought the opposite was the case, where you could get up to 90 hours with 3xAA Alks, although at the latter stages it was very dim.
 
etc,
You were right to question me; my memory failed me. The M60LL runs longer but dimmer on 2xCR123a, and shorter but brighter on 3xCR123a. I don't know if anyone has done output/runtime comparisons on 2xAA vs. 3xAA. My bad. I thought I might have had something bookmarked, but I can't find a reference.
 
I've run my P60's in 9P bodies loaded with 1 @ protected 17500 + 1 @ AA NimH rechargeable for years.

I know it is generally inadvisable to mix battery types, but the maH capacity of the protected 17500 is so much less than that of an AA NimH that the most exciting event I ever experience is for the LioN to shut off.
 
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