Judco/Kroll Switches

[yazkaz]

Not every single thing needs to generate an argument ...

Never mind finn's comment. Maybe he was just retaliating because I wasn't kind (or didn't sound appropriate) to him when it comes to advice in generic flashlight repair/maintenance issues.
See here https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...07-Never-mind-I-found-someone-willing-to-help

 

[yazkaz]

Edit: Flashlightlens also has some 'sleeves' for the Kroll. Yupe $8 each is pricey. He now shows 11 left. The link to buy switches takes you to 'theledguy' which is the SS. So I suppose that's possibly where the SS gets his stuff from to assemble the kit? Link to install instructions no worky btw.

A little bad news here. Assuming that this is the sleeve the SS used for its Peli Kroll assy then I'm afraid to say the sleeve needs to be modified for actual fitment inside the Peli tail.

Problem: diameter of the top neck area (right above the screw threads) is too wide, by around 1-2mm. This causes the sleeve to be only able to partially thread in, but not through the end of the tailcap host in question.

I only realized the problem today when I disassembled the Peli tailcap for the sleeve's fitment.

I'm going to visit my local machining workshop to have my Kroll sleeve modified. Will publish the results later on how much the neck's diameter needs to be reduced.

 

[bykfixer]

Do you have the one with an o-ring in the middle?
Chris said he oversized it slightly so it won't fall out when changing batteries. It seems that perhaps if it was threaded that would be better because once it's 'pushed' in, it aint going to want to come back out.

https://web.archive.org/web/2015070...ghtreviews.com:80/reviews/pelican_clickie.htm
Here are some instructions.

I have 2 types of clicky assemblies. Left is the older one that broke. Right is a newer one made in about 2014.

I swapped parts to the silver tailcap.
The brass coated alluminum disk in the older one was glued in. Plus no holes to remove the disk. I drilled holes to remove it later.

The brass covered alluminum disk was left in and 'guts' above that disk from the black tailcap are now in the silver one and it works great.

I'll confirm from FLL if the new sleeve is supposed to be banged in or trimmed with a dremel (or other tools).

 

[yazkaz]

Do you have the one with an o-ring in the middle?
Chris said he oversized it slightly so it won't fall out when changing batteries. It seems that perhaps if it was threaded that would be better because once it's 'pushed' in, it aint going to want to come back out.

https://web.archive.org/web/2015070...ghtreviews.com:80/reviews/pelican_clickie.htm
Here are some instructions.

I have 2 types of clicky assemblies. Left is the older one that broke. Right is a newer one made in about 2014.

I swapped parts to the silver tailcap.
The brass coated alluminum disk in the older one was glued in. Plus no holes to remove the disk. I drilled holes to remove it later.

The brass covered alluminum disk was left in and 'guts' above that disk from the black tailcap are now in the silver one and it works great.

I'll confirm from FLL if the new sleeve is supposed to be banged in or trimmed with a dremel (or other tools).

Thx for the big update, very useful info esp. on the different clicky internals versions......

For the record I have three M6es. Two in bulk (unmarked) packaging with the 2014 clicky design while the remaining one is in regular retail packaging and has a much tighter clicky actuation feel. This afternoon I finally opened up my last M6's tailcap assy and confirm it's the older version as shown on the left of your pic (bad news!). I also noticed some black threadlock glue residue and wonder if it's of the weaker version (which can be defeated easily). Having said that, I like the older spec clicky mecha more.

Now my question is, are the parts behind the plated retainer ring the same? In other words: switch boot, metal void fill, spring?
Also, any specific skills on drilling torque holes on this retainer ring, without damaging anything below? You've done that already so you probably know...

Meanwhile my aluminum Kroll sleeve appears to be of most current design not described on the switch swap link circa 2003. Also no o-ring installed nor has provision for o-ring. Top neck diameter is around 20.2mm which needs to be reduced to around 19-19.5mm for proper fitment.

 

[bykfixer]

A typical Pelican M6 tailcap inside.
I took a peak inside my older and newer 2320's and a 2390 and they're all the same.

The sleeve I just received from FLL.

Once I receive the switches and an install reccomend confirmation from FLL I figure on doing a how to for these classic Pelicans comparing oem switches too. (After searching I did not find one already done)

The parts between the older brass coated ring w/o holes in my 2390 and the non coated with holes of the newer 2320.

Concerned about sudden drill bit through the ring I stopped at about half way through the ring with a 5/64th bit, which allowed plenty of depth for the needle nose pliers to 'bite'. The trouble is getting the d*mglue out of the threads. Once I got the silver one working I abandoned the idea of getting the threads clean. I'm figuring finger nail polish remover and a q-tip may actually melt the clear-ish glue mine has. (Finger nail polish remover disolves super glue so that's why it is my first thought.)

The 2390 set up.
This one was not glued thank goodness.

Now I always suspected Pentagon used a Pelican part (or vice versa)

Could it be?

Yup... same parts.
One of the complaints of Pentagon clickies was that 'lack of positive feel'. I always liked the near silent feature and got used to the faint feeling when it engaged.

But will a Pentagon fit a Pelican?

Yup, sure does.

So now we know a flashlight lens/kroll repair can work on a Pentagon. (And I now know how to use a Pentagon twisty in a Pelican clicky tailcap, and a parts swap can turn my eX2 into a clicky).

 

[bykfixer]

I'll probably take 10 when I place a new SS order by Fall.

So there seems to be some demand for this switch as the original inventory was around 400 (??) units a few years back, if I remember correctly. But how true is that? Also, how many folks here are still clinging to their MagAAs and Jils that utilize this switch, and how many boots have they actually worn out leaving the bare internals lying around, over these years?

And more importantly, if I have the boots made, would they be sold easily?

Any take on this?

So let me see if I'm clear here... the Kroll will thread onto a minimag tail? Then said minimag can be a clicky?
(With head switch rotated to on of course)... so you can pick your favorite beam shape and leave it there?

 

[jorn]

Yes, it fits a 2xaa minimag.
I used it the other way. Used a minimag tail + qtc in the old onepice malkoff md-2 . Twist the head for on/off. Tighten/loosen the minimag cap with qtc for adjusting output. Since the minimag tail is hollowed out for the spare bulb, i got plenty of room to play with qtc pads.

 

[yazkaz]

@bykfixer
The Kroll is fully compatible with MagAA and also certain JIL light setups.
It is under these situations that the rubber boot will wear out eventually, which means a replacement boot is required.

 

[bykfixer]

Thanks for the info.

To me a great minimag tail switch would be like a nose hair trimmer machine my wife gave me recently.

Twist it clockwise about 10° and it runs. Twist counter and it shuts off. Somebody should do that for minimags.