Just ordered the DX 900 Lumen P7

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Although it seems a well price light I wouldnt buy it.

The shape puts me off immediately.
It almost looks like it was designed to get snagged on things!

The lens is reported to be only 2.54 mm thick and 50mm wide. This does not seem to be anywhere thick enough to withstand any real depths.

The front bezel ( whats with the shape? You gonna wack a shark over the head with it??) is reported to come loose during dives resulting in floods. Be warned.


Specs are very confusing. Some say 900 lumen ( yeah right) while some quote 1500ma current draw. These simply do not add up.

The switch has been reported to have no stops. So it does not really click on and off, just rotate around.
 
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Although it seems a well price light I wouldnt buy it.

The shape puts me off immediately.
It almost looks like it was designed to get snagged on things!

The lens is reported to be only 2.54 mm thick and 50mm wide. This does not seem to be anywhere thick enough to withstand any real depths.

The front bezel ( whats with the shape? You gonna wack a shark over the head with it??) is reported to come loose during dives resulting in floods. Be warned.


Specs are very confusing. Some say 900 lumen ( yeah right) while some quote 1500ma current draw. These simply do not add up.

The switch has been reported to have no stops. So it does not really click on and off, just rotate around.

I agree with all of those things except that it is cheap and bright and there isn't another alternative where those things are not present.

The bezel should be able to be tightened. The shape I can live with since there isn't a better shape out there in this configuration. The lens bothers me but again...what else is out there?

As far as the stops, I understand there are other models out there like this as well and it works. You have to turn it 90 degrees to change anything so it's not like the light is going to inadvertently switch modes.

Let's just say this is a test model.:naughty:

I actually ordered the MC-E version. It says 640 lumens with a digital regulated 1500mA current output. Assuming the 1500mA part is correct what is likely to be the true lumens from he MC-E? What is the MC-E rated at...what lumens at what current output?

Thanks.


 
I just looked at the data sheet for MC-E however I'm not sure I understand it. It looks like lumens are measures for each led (of which there are 4 on this chip) and at 350 mA that is around 300. So 300 * 4 would be 1200 lumens...I know that's not right so what am I doing wrong?

It does look like 350 mA * 4 is correct so 1400 mA is right for current output. So what should the lumens be for this light and how do they get 640 lumens?
 
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The MC-E leds version is probably wired 2S2P to be run at 1500mah... although it should really be 1400mah maybe they just over run it a bit as its being cooled by water when diving..
 
I have 2 of these lights from Deal ..... there Great !!! the Modes are really nice from low power to High, and the strobe feature is also sweet... I ve Had my light down to 105 feet , with no problems.... Its well WORTH the Money for a primary light or a back up ... And the price is a steal, and its really really bright
 
Hey!

Glad to hear positive comments on the light! I have the MC-E Version, but haven't been able to dive it yet.

I think the price / shape / runtime / output etc. is good for leisure divers. I had mine run for 2h 10min on high with freshly charged 18650s till it turned dark. Considering that my dives are usually around 60-70min that's plenty of run time for me.

Greetings from Berlin!
 
I got the p7 version and have 3 dives on it now with no issues. Deepest was 103 ft. I am wondering if the ring switch has a magnet in it?

If so, I think I will try and put a sst90 in it with pepko's LDO10C based driver and a reed switch. I took the guts out of the brass thing and it looks like some kind of coil in it with maybe a hall effect type switch on the board.

The LDO10c and resisters hopefully will fit in the brass heat sink and i can add a reed to turn it on if the ring has a magnet. Anyway, the light has worked so far and is pretty bright. I hope I can make it brighter though with the sst
 
I got the p7 version and have 3 dives on it now with no issues. Deepest was 103 ft. I am wondering if the ring switch has a magnet in it?

If so, I think I will try and put a sst90 in it with pepko's LDO10C based driver and a reed switch. I took the guts out of the brass thing and it looks like some kind of coil in it with maybe a hall effect type switch on the board.

The LDO10c and resisters hopefully will fit in the brass heat sink and i can add a reed to turn it on if the ring has a magnet.

Anyway, the light has worked so far and is pretty bright. I hope I can make it brighter though with the sst at 9 amps. Cooling shouldn't be an issue as long as you run it only under water.
 
Will that driver really supply 9 amps off 2 18650's?
Can the batteries even handle that current draw?
If they could they wouldnt last more than 20 minutes ( 4v x9amp= 36watt. 3.7vX2.5amp x 2= 18.5 watt hour IF the batteries are 2..5 ah AND can supply full capacity on a 30 minute discharge which they will not) and possibly a few chargers.
 
I've also heard that this torch has a automatic dimming function, all you need to do is activate it which normally happens around the 4th dive onwards...


....


....

Yes its activated when it floods as the locktite eventually gives up..

:D
 
I just looked at the data sheet for MC-E however I'm not sure I understand it. It looks like lumens are measures for each led (of which there are 4 on this chip) and at 350 mA that is around 300. So 300 * 4 would be 1200 lumens...I know that's not right so what am I doing wrong?

It does look like 350 mA * 4 is correct so 1400 mA is right for current output. So what should the lumens be for this light and how do they get 640 lumens?

It's the lumen reading for all 4 dies.
Taken from the datasheet:

Flux and chromaticity are measured with each LED die connected to independent drive circuits at 350 mA. The flux and chromaticity of XLamp MC-E White are measured with all LEDs lit simultaneously. The flux and color of each LED in XLamp MC-E Color are measured individually.

look at the chart on the datasheet headed:
Relative Intensity vs. Current (TJ = 25˚C)

the relative luminous flux at 350ma per die is 100% 370 lumens, at 700ma per die its 178% so thats 640 lumens..
 
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Will that driver really supply 9 amps off 2 18650's?
Can the batteries even handle that current draw?
If they could they wouldnt last more than 20 minutes ( 4v x9amp= 36watt. 3.7vX2.5amp x 2= 18.5 watt hour IF the batteries are 2..5 ah AND can supply full capacity on a 30 minute discharge which they will not) and possibly a few chargers.

The driver can. The AW2600's probably wouldn't like it for that long so you are right on the battery issue. You could adjust the voltage down a tad to generate more reasonable amp usage. 4-5 amps on an sst90 is still pretty bright. This thing is better for a second light as opposed to a proper primary dive light like your mini max. That thing is awesome by the way.
 
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This thing is better for a second light as opposed to a proper primary dive light like your mini max. That thing is awesome by the way.

Thanks. Problem is I am still having trouble driving it to any where nears its full potential.
Any links on that LDO10C driver?

 

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