KL1 driver board
- Thread starter jonlerd
- Start date
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FireFighter05
Newly Enlightened
Check the posative wire to make sure it has not come loose off of the board. The connection does not seem to be very good. That was the same problem I had with mine.
Dave
Dave
trivergata
Enlightened
Or do what I did - swap it out for a real board at the shoppe.
Josh
Josh
trivergata said:
which board did you go with? i was looking for a board but i wasnt aware there was one to go with. How do you like the board you got? does it drive it harder?
As for the positive wire, it looks like its on right for some reason if i hold my finger over the ic board and touch the barrel of the flashlight it lights up
but when i take my finger off it dims and then flickers off and then stays off until i touch it again....its weird like it has a sensor.
thanks
trivergata
Enlightened
I bought it from someone as a failed mod, and mainly wanted the body. I just used a standard driver from the sandwich shoppe, and epoxied it into a E-can. Then I epoxied the while thing to the KL1. You can see it here:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=118535
I personally went with a BBNG500 on it, and it's pushing out somewhere around 75 lumens-ish - makes for a great little light.
Depending on the LED that is in there, you may be able to push it harder. I've been thinking about cracking into it again and adding a Cree.............
Josh
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=118535
I personally went with a BBNG500 on it, and it's pushing out somewhere around 75 lumens-ish - makes for a great little light.
Depending on the LED that is in there, you may be able to push it harder. I've been thinking about cracking into it again and adding a Cree.............
Josh
trivergata
Enlightened
I know I'm not anyone else, but don't forget, with a BBNG you can run 1 cell only. I've run mine on a Li-Ion and on a primary, but for a while on the Li-Ion, it runs in direct drive.
The trick that I found to getting it to set up right is to superglue the driver into the can (after the wires are all hooked up, of course - bummer if you forget it
), let it dry while you mix your epoxy (be sure to use thermal epoxy or epoxy mixed with aluminum oxide powder). I hope you are experienced with your chosen brand of epoxy, because the next bit is a bit tricky. You need to mix the epoxy fully, then fill the E-can up on top of the driver board. Now for the tricky part - let the epoxy cure a bit - just enough that it starts to "gel", at which point you want to put some of the epoxy onto the backside of the KL1 head where the E-can attaches. Stick the E-can in place and put the threaded collar that originally held the driver board back onto the head (the collar is the part that I removed to show the E-can set-up in the above post). Now you want to screw the KL1 and E-can back onto a body (doesn't need batteries - the body will hold it in place). Don't screw it down all the way - the epoxy tends to shrink a bit as it cures and if you do, you might lose body-to-E-can contact, which is your negitive path (don't panic, this is repairable), but get it darn close - just a couple thousands of an inch loose. You want to keep the KL1 about a quarter turn loose, so be sure to know how far down it goes. Set it tail end down - bezel up - to cure, that way the E-can will have gravity pulling toward the body.
After it cures, add batteries and fire it up. If there is a grounding problem, the trick I've used is to use the crush washer (from the KL1 assembly - the thin, wavy copper washer) around the E-can to make up the extra room for the grounding path. Thin wire or soemthing else works too, or I suppose you could build it up with solder to the right height. Don't forget to add your + solder blob, too - I have several times and started to worry, until I realised the battery wasn't even making contact to the board
.
Hope that wasn't too much - feel free to ask anything else.
Have Fun, and good luck, you'll be really happy with the final product.
Josh
The trick that I found to getting it to set up right is to superglue the driver into the can (after the wires are all hooked up, of course - bummer if you forget it
), let it dry while you mix your epoxy (be sure to use thermal epoxy or epoxy mixed with aluminum oxide powder). I hope you are experienced with your chosen brand of epoxy, because the next bit is a bit tricky. You need to mix the epoxy fully, then fill the E-can up on top of the driver board. Now for the tricky part - let the epoxy cure a bit - just enough that it starts to "gel", at which point you want to put some of the epoxy onto the backside of the KL1 head where the E-can attaches. Stick the E-can in place and put the threaded collar that originally held the driver board back onto the head (the collar is the part that I removed to show the E-can set-up in the above post). Now you want to screw the KL1 and E-can back onto a body (doesn't need batteries - the body will hold it in place). Don't screw it down all the way - the epoxy tends to shrink a bit as it cures and if you do, you might lose body-to-E-can contact, which is your negitive path (don't panic, this is repairable), but get it darn close - just a couple thousands of an inch loose. You want to keep the KL1 about a quarter turn loose, so be sure to know how far down it goes. Set it tail end down - bezel up - to cure, that way the E-can will have gravity pulling toward the body.After it cures, add batteries and fire it up. If there is a grounding problem, the trick I've used is to use the crush washer (from the KL1 assembly - the thin, wavy copper washer) around the E-can to make up the extra room for the grounding path. Thin wire or soemthing else works too, or I suppose you could build it up with solder to the right height. Don't forget to add your + solder blob, too - I have several times and started to worry, until I realised the battery wasn't even making contact to the board
.Hope that wasn't too much - feel free to ask anything else.
Have Fun, and good luck, you'll be really happy with the final product.
Josh
