KL1 & LuxIII

[K-T]

Is the stock driverboard of the KL1 capable to drive a LuxIII if the resistor would be changed to provide higher currents to the III or do I have to upgrade the KL1 with oneof Dat2Zip's boards in order to get the whole thing running?

Klaus.

 

[hideo]

I have one runnig off the stock circuit that CM bumped up to 700 mA-it's very nice

hideo

 

[CM]

Klaus,

It is capable of driving up to an amp, maybe more. I know I've done 1A using the stock KL1 circuit. I'd stick with around 700mA to keep the heat in check unless you're going to use it for short periods.

CM

 

[Icarus]

Does anyone have a picture of the stock board of the KL1 to show which resistor has to be replaced? Which value do I need to get 700mA out of it?

Freddy

 

[Chop]

Follow CM's adivse. It's good advise. If you go over 700mA, heat WILL become a problem.

icarus, when you get to the circuit, you'll find a .1 ohm resistor and a 1 ohm resistor. Just stack another one of each and you'll roughly double the stock current level.

Just beware. Altough this is not a hard mod, it is easy to screw it up too. Go slow and, if in doubt, ask before you act.

 

[kj]

icarus, you can find the picture on my KL1 mod page.

 

[K-T]

Thanks, guys. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

 

[Icarus]

Thanks Chop and kj /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[akula88]

CM,
How's the runtime of KL1 @ 1x123 when driven to 700maH?

Regards,

 

[louie]

Sounds like a great mod. I already have both my KL1s partly apart with new 1W highdomes and fraens.

Does anyone have a pointer to the 0.1 and 1.0 ohm resistors needed to stack? Digikey part numbers, or wattage, dimensions ? Maybe these: Digikey page 863
Panasonic 0603, 1/10 W, 1% (.1 ~ .18ohm)
part# P + Value + “AJCT-ND” 10 for $5.36

I'll guess runtime should be an hour on 1x123 and 2 hours on 2@123?

 

[Chop]

As far as runtime goes, you're supposed to get 1.5 hrs. on a singe 123 at the stock current. Doubling that current should get you half the runtime. Of course, if you use a lux with a low Vf, you might get more.

It will also run a little brighter on 2X123's than it will on 1X123. You can only get so much current out of a single 123. In my experience, it's been about 600mA tops.

CM, can you comment on this.

 

[CM]

akula88,

I never tried 1x123 on an overdriven KL1. I don't even recommend it due to the poor converter efficiency. Even at stock bias, the output is not flat so I'm guessing it will look lousy at 700mA. A very low Vf LED may get you something useable but I doubt it will be flat. Chop's 600mA is probably right but that's right at the beginning with fresh cell.

 

[kj]

louie,

I believe these are 1210 size resistors and are probably 1/4 watts.

 

[akula88]

Thanks, Chop and CM. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Tony> care to comment on the PILA fit experiment? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[hideo]

I run my 700mA TWOK KL1 on the cheap on a 2xAA/3x123 vitalgear body--1x123 works, but yes, it works that little battery ragged ...

my Chop modded TWAK 800 mA KL3 head runs comfortably and blindingly on 2x123, but given the draw, I don't think 3x123 would be out of order

there is no magic battery solution ... look at the displacement of the battery case and it will pretty much tell you how long it will (or won't) last

hideo

 

[ResQTech]

So for 1x123 1 watters are the only realistic luxeons to use? "Realistic" figuring a runtime of atleast 1 hour.

 

[K-T]

[ QUOTE ]
MTFD17 said:
(...) "Realistic" figuring a runtime of atleast 1 hour.

[/ QUOTE ]

Ahh...who cares for runtime....we want photons and lots of it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif