L1 Problem – Lock-out Tailcap

[Skid]

I need some help. When I try to lock-out my tailcap on my L1 I have to turn it until I see the start of the unfinished aluminum before the o-ring in order for it not to activate. This seems a little excessive to me. How far past the last time the pill marks line up are you (others L1 owners) having to unscrew the tailcap before your light no longer activates? I am having to go a full 90 deg. Another 180 deg. and my tailcap comes off. Any help is appreciated. TIA

Skid

 

[WaltH]

I've got mine right here...OK, Mine locks out OK with the pill marks lined up for the last time. Another 180 and I can see the unfinished aluminum, and another 180 and the cap comes off.

Hope this helps.

 

[McGizmo]

Skid,

What you are seeing is inherent in the design I believe. The O-ring is still sealing so the integrity has not been compromised, AFAIK. You might consider leaving it partiall locked out as it does take a fair depression to turn on the low level and the high can't be activated at this point.

- Don

 

[FC.]

Same here.

 

[Size15's]

I don't find I need to LockOut the two-stage TailCaps as often as I do the standard LOTCs.

Al

 

[carl]

If I may display my ignorance on SF tailcaps (since I don't own one), do they work by screwing in or out using the threads themselves? I was under the false impression that they worked by turning in-place (like a knob on a radio) without actually unscrewing like a ARC-LS non-TSP pack.

 

[kakster]

yep, my E2e tailcap screw in and out on the threads.

 

[Carpe Diem]

Originally posted by WaltH:
I've got mine right here...OK, Mine locks out OK with the pill marks lined up for the last time. Another 180 and I can see the unfinished aluminum, and another 180 and the cap comes off.

Hope this helps.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Same here.