L6 Mystery

[Illum]

I'm out of ideas on this one...

I originally bought a MCE'd KL6 from DaFABRICATA and a M3T body from someone else on the forum. I had no tailcap so I went and ordered a Z58 from batteryjuncton

It came as a dud but I was able to fix it...partially:shakehead

It has consistently exhibited a weird inconsistent behavior.
It would work for now, if left untouched it wouldn't work the next time I click it, but other times it will work anytime I click it.

I left it on my table lying on its side, in the off state. When I came back to it the cells were bloody hot, but only the rear two cells. The cells were Energizers from the same batch, all measured 100% on the ZTS. This is the second time the tailcap has done this. The first time every component [except the KL6] was hot, yet after I took everything outside, disassembled everything for it to cool off and return in the house the Z58 would suddenly want to work again. 3 weeks later...same result, I was using it to light up something outside. Shortly after turning it off I realized the rubber grip was unnaturally hot. I didn't think much of it until it was hot enough for me to drop it on the lawn. I quickly took the tailcap off and dumped the cells on the lawn. Same thing as the last event, only the two rear cells heated up with the tailcap. the front cell was cool to the touch.

Each incident I discard the cells after the incident or use them in single celled lights in a cautious manner...to date I have not successfully used up one set of cells but have discarded 3 sets of 3, two sets from the same batch energizers. Which still measured 80-100% on the ZTS after the incident.

The chamber is cleared of obstacles, there's no way the middle cell could have shorted to the body. Theoretically the tailcap work by shorting to the body, but not this one, this one seemed compelled to destroy the two rear cells.

The KL6 is using a stock driver, I've shorted the body without the tailcap to the battery and let it light for several minutes, no heat was registered as far as I am aware of that can compare to the heat emitted with the tailcap on.

Breakdown Pictures





The only thing wrong with the tailcap as far as I am aware of is intermittent contact on the spring, where all I needed to do was twist the spring around to get the dud working.

Does anyone know whats going on? I understand I need a new tailcap but what I don't understand is why am I getting these observations.

 

[divine]

Some of the things you're describing sound like they are caused from arc-ing. When contacts are too close to stop current from arc-ing across them it will heat up dramatically. Kind of like when you have the power on and you connect a blade fuse, or those Frankenstein movies where they use a 3 pole switch that uses wide open straight blades.

The light might not actually turn on depending on how severe (actually the opposite) of an arc. I don't know why the two cells would be hot... unless it is from being next to the heating up body or that they are actually shorting out like you thought.

Arcing could be from something simple like if you have a preference of having the light turn on from the slightest touch.. it might be too close, and you might need to back it off some. It could also be from the internals of the switch being too close together, or from an insulator on the inside of the switch being too thin.

 

[DimeRazorback]

Maybe the clicky can't withstand the current being drawn from the MCE?? :shrug:

I'm a noob :nana:

 

[Fusion_m8]

Sounds like a manufacturing fault inside the Z58, just contact Surefire and get a replacement. Surefire offers a lifetime warranty on their products and in my experience, Surefire offers OUTSTANDING customer service, they have sent me 3 replacement tailcaps in the last 2 years; 2xZ58s and 1xZ48, all free of charge and the most impressive thing was the tailcaps all got to Melbourne, Australia within 10days of me contacting them!

 

[Illum]

Some of the things you're describing sound like they are caused from arc-ing. When contacts are too close to stop current from arc-ing across them it will heat up dramatically. Kind of like when you have the power on and you connect a blade fuse, or those Frankenstein movies where they use a 3 pole switch that uses wide open straight blades.

The light might not actually turn on depending on how severe (actually the opposite) of an arc. I don't know why the two cells would be hot... unless it is from being next to the heating up body or that they are actually shorting out like you thought.

Arcing could be from something simple like if you have a preference of having the light turn on from the slightest touch.. it might be too close, and you might need to back it off some. It could also be from the internals of the switch being too close together, or from an insulator on the inside of the switch being too thin.

I originally thought maybe the middle battery had a tear on the wrapping, where shorting to the side could take place, but this was not the case. :shakehead

I know what you mean by arcing...but arcing requires an ionization of the air between the contacts, the only way that would occur is if there's a high potential between the contacts. 9V is not much for potential at all :thinking:

the switch is likely the case as you say, an insulator being too thin or otherwise inconsistent in shape, but it still doesn't explain why only a part of the cells would heat up, come to think of it there is some temperature on the first cell, but its not enough to compare with the rear cell:shrug:

I'll be contacting surefire on this for sure, First thing Monday

 

[leukos]

Illum,

I think all three of your cells are getting hot, it's just the design of the M3T body that is fooling you. Those fins on the body near the head do a great job at diffusing heat, so that first battery probably does not feel as warm to you as the other two, but they are all getting HOT. Do you have another tailcap that you can use instead? That is a lot of current for the Z58. If you want a clicky, maybe try the Z48, it has a much more robust clicky, the same internals as the SW02. Otherwise, stick with a Z41.

 

[Solscud007]

I had similar issues with my L5 clicky. Just had SF send me a new one.

 

[Illum]

Illum,

I think all three of your cells are getting hot, it's just the design of the M3T body that is fooling you. Those fins on the body near the head do a great job at diffusing heat, so that first battery probably does not feel as warm to you as the other two, but they are all getting HOT. Do you have another tailcap that you can use instead? That is a lot of current for the Z58. If you want a clicky, maybe try the Z48, it has a much more robust clicky, the same internals as the SW02. Otherwise, stick with a Z41.

I think your right on the fins

Unfortunately no, I only bought one tailcap and a bought the body standalone.

I'll look into the Z48, I didn't know the deference between the 48 and 58, I just bought which ever was in stock and was compatible.

Depending on the price, I'll consider the Z41 as well, or at minimum keep a spare:wave:

I had similar issues with my L5 clicky. Just had SF send me a new one.

Good to know I'm not the only one

 

[Patriot]

That's a strange on Illum but I'm with leukos on this one. It really seem to be the best explanation for this weird behavior at this time. I really hope it's just that simple but I really can't imagine what else it could be. Keep us up to date on this one.

 

[Illum]

I called Surefire, they don't know why it would do this either, they are dispatching another Z58 to me.

I was told to retain the existing tailcap and everything else, should the new TC fail as well, I might have to mail the light in. With the regular M turbohead of course, Someone in the repair shop will go nuts when a MCE'd KL6 arrives on his table.

the KL6 driver pulls just over 1 amp from the batteries, which is no more draw as the MN15...I don't believe the issue lies in over current, but theres something intrinistically wrong about my existing tailcap.

Or it could be ghosts in the house. theres this eerie breeze in the house that I am able to feel at night while the A/C is off and windows shut and I'm in bed at night. Light bulbs seem to burn out easily, CFLs whine sporadically, soap seems to want to falls off the shower stand, water level bobs up and down in the toilets. Just yesterday around 12 midnight my nightlight went and blew out a hole on the 7W lamp envelope. To add to the calamity this morning my shaver died, morning wash up with no good light bulbs and no shaver :shrug:

I have two final exams today so I don't have much time to worry about it...

Went home for lunch and found the mailbox door was missing, patio screened doors open, and my bathroom lights now work. I expect everything else to be normal when my night exam blows over... ETA 3 hours

 

[Illum]

While I'm waiting on the new cap...

This is the lamp in my night light, the envelope imploded and shooting glass through the filament and adhering to the inside of the globe...the filaments a mess and the light sensing circuit of the night light no longer works:candle:

 

[Illum]

the new tailcap come around, the light now work fine...except...

the new Z58, like the old one, if tightened all the way down will operate inconsistently, but if tightened down all the way, then loosened about 15 degrees, then it operates very well.

There's two O-rings on the tailend, I doubt I'll need to tighten it all the way down for optimal water resistance :wave: