LD10 or ????

[Locoboy5150]

Are you implying fenix not OTF rating?

Back when Fenix was using mostly XR-E LEDs, their lights were not rated at OTF. Now that they are using XP-Gs, their lumen ratings are starting to match the OTF measurements done by CPF members. Before approximately a year ago though, Fenix most definitely did not use OTF measurements when listing their light output numbers in their literature.

 

[entoptics]

I wholeheartedly welcome any substantiated corrections to that perception.

I can offer a substantiated correction to your otherwise completely correct (IMHO) assumptions about the EagleTac lineup.

I have had two run ins with customer service on my T20C2, and while they were very friendly, and solved the problems (tail switch issues) with no questions asked, they were SLOOOOOWWWW to respond and ship the new parts.

Other than that, as an owner of a T20C2, and having extensively handled and tested a P20A2 MKII, I whole heartedly agree with red02's assessments. They are excellent lights all around, and I wouldn't hesitate to purchase another one if it fits my needs.

 

[TwitchALot]

I resent that implication, and if you have doubts about my objectivity I welcome you to check all and any of my posts. Furthermore, I only encouraged Eagletac as an option which ought to be considered nothing more. As I can only speak from personal experience, I cannot give a review of any specific Eagletac model and do not pretend to do so. I can only offer what I have learned from other posters and their reviews, which have shaped my perception on the whole eagletac line and I wholeheartedly welcome any substantiated corrections to that perception.

In the interest of full disclosure I have a Quark 1232-tac first run model and could not bring myself to send it back. The tac UI is very good, unfortunately the light itself is far from prefect and it seems that few people bring this up when continuously recommending the light. I would readily buy an upgrade should any of the addressed issues become corrected.

The preflash is the result of the circuit design, and I'm not sure how much of it can be changed if you want to keep the same price and regulation. Preflash for me only occurs under certain circumstances, all of which are very avoidable.

For normal Quarks, it happens when you turn the light on in turbo, and then within about 5 seconds or so, turning it off and back on in moonlight mode.

For the Tacticals, it occurs when I don't untwist the head far enough (ie it's loosened, but close to being fully tightened) or when I transition from turbo (maybe high as well- I don't use this mode that often) to the low mode within a minute or so.

Of course, the easy answer is, if I wanted to preserve my night vision, I wouldn't have turned it on in turbo in the first place, so it's not that much of an issue IMO.

 

[Egsise]

I've read many posts of users disappointed by their Quarks due to the loose threads and preflash, its difficult to recommend because of this. I would really like to get the Quark AA XPG, but they have to fix these things first.

spoken as someone who has never handled any of them to know what they are actually talking about. :whistle:

I have a LD10 Q5 and a 4Sevens Quark AAw, the Quark threads are loose and needs to be cleaned more often than the LD10 threads to avoid flickering.
The newer Quark threads are either trapetsoid or square or who knows, perhaps it's a problem with the factory but anyway it's a major quality control problem and it kills the legoability.

LD10 circuit is not designed for 14500 so it may fry, not instantly but it may happen.

 

[Rob223]

Back when Fenix was using mostly XR-E LEDs, their lights were not rated at OTF. Now that they are using XP-Gs, their lumen ratings are starting to match the OTF measurements done by CPF members.

Well I dont know why everyone pushs the quark so much when the fenix puts out more lumens for a longer duration while doing it with a lower bin LED, Fenix has a R4 when the quark uses R5. If the quark were substantially cheaper I could see.

 

[Ragiska]

Well I dont know why everyone pushs the quark so much when the fenix puts out more lumens for a longer duration while doing it with a lower bin LED, Fenix has a R4 when the quark uses R5. If the quark were substantially cheaper I could see.

i suggest you look at the comparative runtime graphs before making such a statement.

also remember the quark is DESIGNED to run on li-ion, where the fenix is NOT, and will loose all lower modes.

 

[red02]

Personally I don't use Li-Ion as a rule; they require way too much care. I've had 2 17670s die, one from unintentional overdischarge and one from an accidental drop of about 2m (6ft).

Support for Li-Ions is not an advantage for all people, I think that Fenix's choice reflects that.

 

[Ragiska]

Personally I don't use Li-Ion as a rule; they require way too much care. I've had 2 17670s die, one from unintentional overdischarge and one from an accidental drop of about 2m (6ft).

Support for Li-Ions is not an advantage for all people, I think that Fenix's choice reflects that.

but the OP specifically requests it!!

 

[Rob223]

I was curious about the Li because not much was mentioned but its not a priority and after seeing how much they cost and run times and potential problems I probably wont run them anyway, Ill probably be using rechargable AA and disposable AA's.

 

[Rob223]

Does anyone know what color or bin code the R4's that Fenix usually uses are, do they generally have the same one or would they have all different ones?

 

[entoptics]

I was curious about the Li because not much was mentioned but its not a priority and after seeing how much they cost and run times and potential problems I probably wont run them anyway, Ill probably be using rechargable AA and disposable AA's.

Li-ion is a phenomenal power source, but from my research, it doesn't really give a huge advantage until you hit the 18650 lights. With good quality protected cells and some common sense, Li-ion is pretty much as safe as any wall outlet, car battery, knife, or gas grill.

It is only significantly cheaper to run than Li primary disposables if you run your light fairly frequently, or buy batteries at a department/grocery store. They are very lightweight and have good cold weather performance and low self discharge.

All the advantages cost money and time though. If you don't see a specific need that justifies Li-ion, you're probably gonna be happy without them. NiMH rechargeables are so good now anyway.

As another "recommendation" I would suggest the NiteCore D10 if 14500 Li-ion were to become important. It gains no brightness over NiMH, but an extra 50% runtime and sheds 10 grams of weight.

The D10 is very robust, good clip, unique UI, awesome form factor and ergos, and seriously potent. If I was buying right now, it would be a dead heat between the LD10 R4 and the D10 SP.

If you are loyal to the L1T, then go with the LD10. Nothing wrong with rewarding a company that has been good to you, and by all accounts, the LD10 goes toe to toe with everything else in it's price/use category.

 

[red02]

Does anyone know what color or bin code the R4's that Fenix usually uses are, do they generally have the same one or would they have all different ones?

The color bin is not specified but its usually WC, but even within WC there is some variation. From my limited experience and bias towards cooler tints all I can say, it wont be blue . . . maybe. If you buy from a good retailer you can usually request a tint you like and they will try to accommodate you.

Li-ion is a phenomenal power source, but from my research, it doesn't really give a huge advantage until you hit the 18650 lights. With good quality protected cells and some common sense, Li-ion is pretty much as safe as any wall outlet, car battery, knife, or gas grill.

It is only significantly cheaper to run than Li primary disposables if you run your light fairly frequently, or buy batteries at a department/grocery store. They are very lightweight and have good cold weather performance and low self discharge.

All the advantages cost money and time though. If you don't see a specific need that justifies Li-ion, you're probably gonna be happy without them. NiMH rechargeables are so good now anyway.

As another "recommendation" I would suggest the NiteCore D10 if 14500 Li-ion were to become important. It gains no brightness over NiMH, but an extra 50% runtime and sheds 10 grams of weight.

The D10 is very robust, good clip, unique UI, awesome form factor and ergos, and seriously potent. If I was buying right now, it would be a dead heat between the LD10 R4 and the D10 SP.

If you are loyal to the L1T, then go with the LD10. Nothing wrong with rewarding a company that has been good to you, and by all accounts, the LD10 goes toe to toe with everything else in it's price/use category.

completely agree on this. 14500s (AA version of Li-Ion batteries) are usually rated to 500 cycles, while cheaper eneloops are rated to about 1000 charges. IIRC thats to 80% capacity. From what I've read the LD10 can accept 14500s but looses all but 2 of its modes, im sure someone will correct me if I'm mistaken.

EDIT: Also look at the SC50, pretty good light and with Li-Ion capability.

 

[NightKids]

My strong advice is that if Fenix has served you well through the years then stick with them. They produce high quality flashlights that don't blow the bank balance. I own a few Fenix's and really cannot fault them!

The LD10 is a great flashlight, use eneloops & you'll be happily impressed.

 

[shark_za]

The preflash is the result of ....... and then within about 5 seconds or so........... within a minute or so.

Sorry but time has absolutely zero influence on pre flash in my Quarks and others I have seen.

I can use the Tactical on turbo and then 3 days later try loose bezel low and have flash.
It absolutely does not damage night vision unless you are looking directly into the beam. This is overblown and downright silly.
If your vision is that sensitive you don't need a light, you should apply to the X-Men.

 

[Rob223]

D10 claimed numbers look impressive at 145 lumens but people testing reported far less? Closer to 100. Otherwise i like the interface.

 

[TwitchALot]

Sorry but time has absolutely zero influence on pre flash in my Quarks and others I have seen.

I can use the Tactical on turbo and then 3 days later try loose bezel low and have flash.

There likely is some variation. But in my Tactical, if I twist the head out a 1/4-1/3 of a turn, I don't get preflash. In the instances where I do, it's generally not that big of a deal, although sometimes it can be. I only use Turbo and low (not moonlight) on my QT, though, so I can't say much about other modes/your specific light. If you're unhappy, simply return the light.

It absolutely does not damage night vision unless you are looking directly into the beam. This is overblown and downright silly.
If your vision is that sensitive you don't need a light, you should apply to the X-Men.

Obviously you've never had night-adapted vision, or your vision is very very bad to begin with. If you're truly night adapted, the .2 lumen moonlight mode is just about too bright, let alone a 200 lumen flash. It will disrupt, though probably not destroy, your night-adapted vision. In fact, it's called flash blindness. Whether it is an issue for a specific person or not depends on the circumstances, but to say it's overblown and downright silly is rather ignorant. You don't have to be an X-men to be very very sensitive to light- you just have to be not blind, and night-adapted (which by the way, can take over an hour in complete darkness).

 

[red02]

D10 claimed numbers look impressive at 145 lumens but people testing reported far less? Closer to 100. Otherwise i like the interface.

If you know that lumens are not OTF, a safe estimate on reflector losses is about 30%; 145*0.7 would be around 100.

 

[ky70]

D10 claimed numbers look impressive at 145 lumens but people testing reported far less? Closer to 100. Otherwise i like the interface.

If you know that lumens are not OTF, a safe estimate on reflector losses is about 30%; 145*0.7 would be around 100.

There is no way my D10 is only pushing out 100 lumens on high...in fact, I think the 145 lumens rating is low when I compare the D10 to other lights. I would love to a D10 next to a L10 R4 (which has a reported 170+ lumens on high) for comparison.

 

[Rob223]

There is no way my D10 is only pushing out 100 lumens on high...in fact, I think the 145 lumens rating is low when I compare the D10 to other lights. I would love to a D10 next to a L10 R4 (which has a reported 170+ lumens on high) for comparison.

thats what i read in one review when tested real world OTF I dont have the equipment to prove its true or untrue