Least moving parts?

[Jack Lewis]

Hi guys,

I'm looking for a pocketable flashlight that's as simple as possible. I'm unavoidably hard on gear, and always looking for something that can hold up, and -- even better -- something that's field-strippable if something goes wrong. (And, of course, I also hope that such a flashlight will function well, with a strong and long-lasting light.)

Can anyone make a recommendation? Am I wishing for too much?

Thanks!
Jack

 

[betalight]

Fenix P1-D CE Q-5
I have this on one key set, It's brutally bright and dead simple (twisty).

I have the original P1 on another key set which I have EDC'd for about 2 years now, the natural finish still looks new and never had a problem despite daily use.

 

[PhantomPhoton]

Well there aren't many moving parts in 99% of the flashlights I'm familiar with. Only things that generally move are the bezel for focusing or mode functions and the switch.
The most reliable switch is a twistie so it sounds like you might want one of those. The big super tough as nails light on the horizon is the HDS. You can pre-order one at Batterystation.
Or you can wait a week longer after they start shipping for a review.
You might also consider a light from Peak LED Solutions.
Their website is terrible, but their lights are excellent, give them a call if it interests you. They usually put all the electronics in epoxy making the light extremely durable, as well as options for Titanium ans Stainless steel bodies.
As for field strip-able, um... what exactly is there to strip down in a flashlight, most especially in an LED light?
More information about what you need the light to do will help too. Throw/ flood. Bright/ log runtime?

 

[paulr]

Sounds like you want an HDS twisty, coming out soon, made for caving, about as tough an application as it gets. None of these lights are really field strippable these days. If you want that, try a Surefire incandescent, maybe an M2 with the lockout tail cap. Don't get the clickie switch.

Fenix are good value lights but the are more like consumer electronics than caving or tactical gear.

 

[deathkenli]

get a single li-ion cell direct drive LED flashlight
or a good old incandescent.

and yes you're asking too much.
You can't possibly repair a driver in the wild.

 

[BaldBull]

Fenix are good value lights but the are more like consumer electronics than caving or tactical gear.

Does that statement include the T1?

 

[Jack Lewis]

As for field strip-able, um... what exactly is there to strip down in a flashlight, most especially in an LED light?
More information about what you need the light to do will help too. Throw/ flood. Bright/ log runtime?

By field-strippable I simply mean, mostly, a design simple enough that I can take it apart to clean it if need be. Or even more ideal, a flashlight that's more or less impervious to grit, mud and water.

As for the other qualities, I suppose I'd like to find a good balance for outdoor work and rigorous travel. More throw than flood, perhaps, and long runtime with the option of a super-bright setting if needed.

Sorry if I'm not being helpful... I'm new to the idea of high-quality flashlights. I used and abused any number of run-of-the-mill lights before realizing there's something better out there.

And to the person who mentioned the HDS Twisty, yes, I had read about that and taken a look at their site. Looks like a simple design, although I'm not sure if that translates into robustness. How does it measure up -- on paper, at this point -- in performance, compared to other current offerings?

Thanks so much for any further advice --
Jack

 

[Derek Dean]

Howdy Jack, and welcome to CPF,
As if there isn't enough information here to keep you busy for a while, here are some more flashlight review and information sites you might be interested in:

http://lightreviews.info/news.html
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/features/buyers_guide.htm
http://www.cpfreviews.com/
http://flashlightnews.org/
http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/

And of course the infamous CPF welcome matt:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=172991

Just start reading, and after a while things will begin to make more sense, and pretty soon you will see which light/lights will be the best fit for your needs. Happy hunting.

 

[paulr]

Does that statement include the T1?

Hmm, I wasn't thinking of the T1 which is a tactical styled light that got unfavorable reviews from actual tactical users (LEO's). Those were based primarily on its ergonomics and controls, I think. I don't know how it compares in robustness to something like a Surefire. It strikes me as a marketing driven attempt to make a light that projects a certain image, without any real understanding of the requirements of users who actually fit the image.

It seems to me that the Tek-Tite plastic multi-led lights are also pretty rugged, though not high powered. Not much can go wrong with them. The 3C 7-led version was apparently issued to Navy Seals or something like that. Pretty old light though.

Note I've been grumbling about fenix lately but am not trying to bash them. They have made some great lights in the past. I'm just disappointed that they've switched over to a different set of designs that come across as naive and/or pandering, when compared with their classics. The one exception remaining is the P1CE, which I have with me right now, a great little light that also isn't a ruggedness champion (it's more of a compact/elegant type of light) though it's certainly rugged enough for my wimpy purposes.

 

[paulr]

And to the person who mentioned the HDS Twisty, yes, I had read about that and taken a look at their site. Looks like a simple design, although I'm not sure if that translates into robustness. How does it measure up -- on paper, at this point -- in performance, compared to other current offerings?

Thanks so much for any further advice --
Jack

HDS has a long track record of making fanatically engineered lights. The performance (in terms of output) of any two lights with the same led should be about the same, unless the designer has done something dumb. Therefore, if one light has better specs on paper than the other, it means they're exaggerating. HDS specs tend to be understated, i.e. if they say 70 lumens for 2 hours, you'll actually get that output and runtime under the worst conditions and not just in a laboratory. Fenix certainly gets you more lumens per dollar (since they cost less) but the HDS's are built like tanks. Yes HDS's are sealed against mud and stuff like that.

I don't mean to make a sales pitch for the HDS twisty since I haven't seen one yet, but I'm planning to buy one when I can (probably the 70TR model with the red led). Anyway, no light is absolutely failure proof. The usual recommendation for cavers is carry three lights.

Hmm, another idea (blast from the past): the UK 2L. This is a 2x123 plastic bodied xenon light that is very tough, has a narrow focused long throw beam, and is extremely lightweight. It's one of the smallest 2x123 lights and I believe it's dive rated. As with any incan, there is always the possibility of blowing a bulb, but other than that there's not much you can do to this light that you can't fix with a pocket knife. It's not a brightness champ by today's standards but its runtime is pretty good and it was my favorite light til LED's left small incans behind.

I should also mention the Peak Led lights which are well made if not of the lowest complexity for the more powerful models.

 

[mossyoak]

McG 27lt-s built heavier and more rugged than any other light on the market.
ive never heard of one breaking, or failing to work when needed.

 

[yaesumofo]

6P one moving part. the tail switch.
Yaesumofo

 

[rigormootis]

I'd vote for the P1-CE based on my usage and your requirements (get one while you still can). I wish someone would make a simple twisty-only 2-AA body for the P1-CE head.

 

[Gunner12]

Any light with good o-rings should be water and dirt resistant. The only real moving part in most lights is the switching mechanism and they themselves aren't very complex.

How much abuse will this light be seeing?
Size?
Batteries?
Output?

:welcome:

 

[Big_Ed]

One thing to consider is when dirt gets in the little crevice between the twisty switch and the flashlight body, it seems to me that it's only a matter of time before the constant twisting of the switch, turning it on and off, will slowly drive dirt deeper along the threads. I've never had a flashlight get dirt completely inside a light from this, but dirt definitely gets into the threads and gets mashed in. And even if well lubed, the o-rings get rubbed with each on-off cycle, wearing them out a little each time. Then if the o-ring splits, there goes the light's water resistance. It could also put additional wear on the threads possibly. That's where I would prefer a clicky over a twisty.

 

[wishywashy7]

6P one moving part. the tail switch.
Yaesumofo

Yup. A surefire 6P or G2 LED fits the bill exactly. no clickie to fail
or worry about. Can be completely field stripped too.:thumbsup:

 

[idiotekniQues]

do the twist!