LED off road light bar XM-L

[Steelmesh]

Is this component list feasible for a diy led off road light bar? 13" wide each

Each bar using 6 Cree XM-L cool white
Using these optics Carlco Ellipticals

Each bar regulated remotely by this 10A DC boost converter running the LEDs in series, don't care about efficiency boosting

Running on something like this:
All aluminum 1.5"x2" rectangle tube with 0.750" thick flat that the LEDs screw to (this is not final design, just to get feel for the package)

 

[pauljmccain]

Is this component list feasible for a diy led off road light bar? 13" wide each

Each bar using 6 Cree XM-L cool white
Using these optics Carlco Ellipticals

Each bar regulated remotely by this 10A DC boost converter running the LEDs in series, don't care about efficiency boosting

Running on something like this:
All aluminum 1.5"x2" rectangle tube with 0.750" thick flat that the LEDs screw to (this is not final design, just to get feel for the package)

That will work just fine. If you're going to all the trouble though, why not use the XML2?

Also, I know you said that's not a final design, but just want to make sure you know you'll need WAY more heatsinking.

Paul

 

[alpg88]

booster is no good. it is not safe for cars, car electrical has dirty supply, spikes can be up to 100v, any drivers you splice into car electrical need to be designed for such conditions, this will most likely burn out soon. it also does not have current regulation. you will still need driver after it. you do not control\drive leds by voltage you do it with current. the right way that is.

you really do not need booster, at all. you got 6 leds, split them in 2 string of 3 wired paralel, or use 2 separate drivers for each string of 3. drivers need to be designed for automotive use.

as for lenses and leds, you seem to be good there. you wanna make sure ridges on lenses are in vertical position when installed, this way beam will be horisontal.

p.s. actuallly i would recomend lenses that are screw mounted, not glued like those carclos are, vibrations will eventually shake them off, make sure anything you mount outside is held down firmly, glue is good for flashlight lenses, but cars, you better off with screwes.

 

[Steelmesh]

booster is no good. it is not safe for cars, car electrical has dirty supply, spikes can be up to 100v, any drivers you splice into car electrical need to be designed for such conditions, this will most likely burn out soon. it also does not have current regulation. you will still need driver after it. you do not control\drive leds by voltage you do it with current. the right way that is.

you really do not need booster, at all. you got 6 leds, split them in 2 string of 3 wired paralel, or use 2 separate drivers for each string of 3. drivers need to be designed for automotive use.

as for lenses and leds, you seem to be good there. you wanna make sure ridges on lenses are in vertical position when installed, this way beam will be horisontal.

p.s. actuallly i would recomend lenses that are screw mounted, not glued like those carclos are, vibrations will eventually shake them off, make sure anything you mount outside is held down firmly, glue is good for flashlight lenses, but cars, you better off with screwes.

Thanks for the reply (and Paul above).

I was mistaken with the boost converter, thought it was current limiting; but I see your concerns about dirty car power. I wonder if a zener diode and inductor coil could clean up and protect the input?

More questions spawned:
Do you know of any automotive rated drivers I could look at?

As Paul suggested, I could probably spend a few cents more on the XML2, and go 4000k for off roading contrast.

Regarding the lenses, I incorrectly assumed they were screwed in using hardware from the backside. Does carclo make hard mounts? (can't even find mounts on their website)


Updated with more alum sticking out the back....about 2.5lbs of heatsink not including the alum housing

 

[Steelmesh]

Testing the heatsink 60 watts:

 

[Illum]

Each bar regulated remotely by this 10A DC boost converter running the LEDs in series, don't care about efficiency boosting

um.... :thinking:

Where did the datasheet for XMLs say they are good for 10A?

 

[python021]

I do led lighting for lightshows at events. I like to use offroad lights for strobing effects as they are easily sourced and lack the pricetag associated with dj equipment. I had used the expensive protected offroad lights like you are trying to build and have also tried the cheapos. The difference between the 2 that I have seen is price and durability. Since I am not using the lights offroad, I don't require the durability.
Your design seems to be more durable than you'll ever need which is awesome, so why not try the leds from a cheaply designed bar and refit them in your design. Could save you some dough.
Just a thought.

 

[alpg88]

um.... :thinking:

Where did the datasheet for XMLs say they are good for 10A?

it does not, his boost circuit is capable to handle 10A.

 

[Jakefreese]

After I get my trailer interior lights done this will be my next mission. I'm using the drivers based on the Texas instruments LM3429 chip. It's a switching setup. I'm using all components rated for 50v. I am going boost on my trailer lights, but I am going to setup for buck on my off road lights, running 3-4 LED per driver. I'm planning on the xml2 LED myself. That driver chip does have an automotive and non automotive version. I bought the automotive versions as they were only like 0.10 more. Hopefully I'll finish my PCB design this weekend and get them sent out to be printed.