LEDEngin - 10 watt / 15 watt Information thread

thepaan

Newly Enlightened
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Jul 23, 2009
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I'm not convinced of the need for 660nm given this wavelength is almost non existent in other artifical sources, but that's a separate arguement.

The peak absorption in terms of efficiency is between 650 and 670. The absence of those wavelengths in artificial sources is due to the fact that artifical lighting is primarily developed for people, who percieve light much differently than plants. The wavelength is only important when concerning efficiency, but then, that is the whole point of using an LED instead of, say, a halogen. There are many factors that go into the efficiency of the light fixture, so, in the end, a 660 nm LED lamp may only be about 10-20% more efficient (in terms of growth per unit of grid power) than something like an HPS. The larger initial price of LEDs increases the total cost of ownership which may not be recovered, depending on how long you use the lamp.

More important than wavelength, in horticultural lighting, is the amount of light. This is because given enough inefficient light, the same amount of growth can be achieved as efficient light. Just be sure that, if using LEDs, you mix at least some blue ones in with the red. Generally, with any light you choose, Daily Light Integral (DLI) can be calculated while ignoring the efficiency. DLI is a combination of intensity and duration measured over the course of a day. Most plants need between 10-20 moles/day, but I hear Orchids vary widely between species. The American Orchid Society recommends optimum intensities for certain species, such as Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilum at 1500 foot-candles (fc), Miltoniopsis and Zygopetalum at 2500 fc, Cattleya at 3000 fc, and Brassia, Cymbidium, Degarmoara, Dendrobium and Oncidium at 5000 fc, for a minimum of 6 hours a day. This comes out to about 4, 7, 8, and 14 moles/day, respectively.

Personally, I enjoyed using the LEDEngin emitters. I am only sad that they discontinued production of the 15W deep reds.
 
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