> Let's build a light

[orbital]

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Starting with (2) three 21700 carrier configuration, for six 21700s' used.
5Ah @ 25V for a light maxing out at 200Watts:

What emitter(s) would you use?
Would you go max throw or super flood?,,, maybe something in-between
What about a type of toggle switch for output ramping, maybe even a type of 'volume' knob for output,, goes up to 11 lol
Tripod mountable ect..
Multiple aspherics?
or
even multiple LEPs'

or maybe

 

[bykfixer]

My most powerful light does both. A frosted optic prevents self blinding when aimed at nearby shiney object while able to light up nearly a city block where folks 100 yards away say "sheesh turn off that *** flashlight".

If you go the volume knob would it be best to have defined stopping points like a SureFire U2 does?

 

[orbital]

..If you go the volume knob would it be best to have defined stopping points like a SureFire U2 does?

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The other day I was looking at some used spotting scopes, so that tripod viewing concept was rattling around in my head.
bykfixer: you had a good post in the _anything optics>>> thread, so you understand when to use a spotting scope & when to use a magnifying glass to read fine print in an ad.

So, my thought on this thread was more of a type of nighttime spotting scope,, if that makes sense.

I do like the idea of intermediary stops on the output knob, tactile controls are always nice to have.
(some rifle scopes have that same 'in-between' stops on the illuminated reticle control knob)

 

[bykfixer]

That is a different animal altogether. Frosted lens is out. Sounds like an HID-esque lighting tool. Only portable. Could a small LED like a Luxeon or XP-E through a set of specific lenses do the trick? I have a 137 lumen Maglite using a plastic reflector that tosses a beam a good long way.

So I wonder if something tailored to throw similar to the SureFire EB1 series lens or (gasp) like a zoomie with a small, throwey LED that could presumably clamp between the scope and the tripod? Something like that could conceivably get decent run time and not get really hot. A body drilled on top to accept the male part of the spotting scope with a (removable) male portion to thread into the tripod with a "volume" knob at the tail cap end. Maybe a side mounted on/off switch. A rocker or clicking slider like a pistol light? Something that could be converted to an 18650 fed hand held flashlight that could run on primaries in a pinch.

I think a set of lenses would be in order with potential to swap heads for different beam patterns. Dog walker hand held flooder capable of being converted to an HID super duper thrower beam that can be focused to be a bit wider or more narrow depending on if it's being used to spot the bulls eye or a big ole wolf way off in the distance.

I'd opt for a polymer body over metal.

Just a thought.

 

[gifthunter]

The variable output knob is the biggest feature I see missing from most of the lights on the market, especially at higher output. I don't understand why more manufacturers don't included this - is it because they want to sell us three different lights? Why wouldn't a buyer want to dial in their best light for whatever they need. I just started shopping for good lights, and I've seen so many that want then user to click through (turbo ->) high -> medium -> low -> faint -> strobe 1 -> strobe 2 -> off. This is so annoying, especially because strobe is so useless in the real world. I have a crappy light which does this, and I hate having to press the switch five times to turn it off when on high or to go up one level in output

It makes it tough to find a good, all around light, since most good lights don't have a zoom that can be used to get the intensity just right.

I know the issues with zoom, but even a tiny bit is really helpful in so many situations and could probably be added without much of the usual penalty by using a second optic which rotates in and out slightly along a captive threading. Sometimes you need a wider beam to pick up on things of interest before zeroing in. Other times, that output comes in handy for surveying a wide area even if you're mostly concerned about distance. There should be a happy medium between hot spot and 90+ degrees. Also, a bit of focus helps with a more even light distribution when you do need a wider angle

I have a family member who goes boating regularly and often does overnight trips. The option to sweep a wide patch of water but also illuminate a far-off place like a dock is really important for safety. The wide beam gives a good picture of the water, while the narrow better illuminates a path or destination. At that price point, the light should be versatile and able to handle a wide variety of situations. It would be big, too. Good design could eliminate the need to pack a second.

At that intensity, I'd use a mix of emitters. High CRI comes with an efficiency penalty, whereas high efficiency is more prone to washout. Mixing the two with the right reflector helps up the CRI dead spots in high output mode, while the lower output modes could be configured to use the high CRI LEDs first until more power is needed. With 6x21700, the efficiency penalty of high CRI emitters becomes meaningless when you're running on lower output. If you're on low, it's probably because you're closer in and detail becomes more important.

At that price point, I wouldn't buy it without USB-C and a small LCD showing percentage battery and remaining runtime at current intensity.

 

[prof student]

A frosted optic prevents self blinding when aimed at nearby shiney object while able to light up nearly a city block where folks 100 yards away say "sheesh turn off that *** flashlight".

Are there any options to a frosted optic/lense to prevent the self blinding when up close or from reflection?