LiteFlux LF1 Review at Flashlightreviews

aceo07

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Quickbeam, LED Cool mention in the Dealer's forum that the tube is not big enough for some NIMH batteries? Can you tell us about the fit and which NIMH battery you used.
 

LED Cool

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ditto here about the batteries used.

i tried maha 2700mAh & Sanyo 2500mAh, both do not fit.

Sanyo's 2500 can be forced/pushed in with my thumb but to take it out, i had to unscrew the LED module and push out the battery from the front.:awman:

LED Cool
 

srvctec

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LED Cool said:
ditto here about the batteries used.

i tried maha 2700mAh & Sanyo 2500mAh, both do not fit.

Sanyo's 2500 can be forced/pushed in with my thumb but to take it out, i had to unscrew the LED module and push out the battery from the front.:awman:

LED Cool

Are you talking about the main body (1AA) or the extension tube or both? This may be a deal breaker for me as I *was* going to use NiMH batteries in it. If they will fit in the main single AA body, then I may still get one.
 

jackcselab

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If Sanyo 2500 can't fit. Try rotate battery to find a suitable angle. Most sanyo 2500 can fit by some angle. or you can try other brand of 2500 mah battery. Sony 2500 is also made by sanyo but can fit without any difficulty. May the sony mark is thinner than sanyo mark?

Sanyo 2700 can't fit. But according the example of sony 2500, maybe Sony 2700 can fit?

Problem of bigger battery has be found early in Taiwan and acknowledged by the LiteFlux. They take some corrective action but I don't know the correction is finished of not. People that order LF1 can ask LiteFlux about the correction.
 

yekim

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I managed to order 2 of them, and did not have any problems with e-mails being returned.

Anyone have any idea what the runtime on the low setting is?

I know people complain about how bright the fenix's low is, but the runtime with that amount of light is pretty impressive, seems like he Liteflux should run as long or longer with putting out only 1/2 as much on low, unless some electronics eat up juice.
 

LED Cool

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srvctec,
the Sanyo or Maha high capacity 2500/2700mAh NimH don't fit both the body and tube. i should be getting the enlarged bodies and tubes next week, that is why i am not shipping LF1 to US until then.
 

Quickbeam

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Just added the LOW mode runtime with alkaline- over 10 hours before 50%.

Right now I'm running the test on low for the Jetbeam Mk2, which is about 1/2 as bright as the LiteFlux, and uses PWM instead of a resistor, so the Jetbeam may be much longer...

Doug P.
 

chevrofreak

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Quickbeam said:
Just added the LOW mode runtime with alkaline- over 10 hours before 50%.

Right now I'm running the test on low for the Jetbeam Mk2, which is about 1/2 as bright as the LiteFlux, and uses PWM instead of a resistor, so the Jetbeam may be much longer...

Doug P.

The fact that it uses a resistor is disappointing considering how well regulated high is. :(

The Fenix L1T runs just under 7 hours regulated on low with an alkaline at 2.4x the output, so it seems that even though this is dimmer like more people were asking for, it's just wasting that extra energy instead.
 
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Solstice

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chevrofreak said:
The Fenix L1T runs just under 7 hours regulated on low with an alkaline at 2.4x the output, so it seems that even though this is dimmer like more people were asking for, it's just wasting that extra energy instead.

This may be true, but 10 hours+ is still a good runtime for a single AA alkaline. The resistor has the advantage of putting out a non-flickering beam that can sometimes be detected in a PWM light.

I like the even lower level of the JetBeam MK-II (seems like it's about 1 lumen from comparing to other lights on Quickbeam's site), but I hope the PWM doesn't have detectable flickering, since that can be hard on the eyes. The advantage is that, as Doug suggested, you can get SILLY long runtimes with less wasted energy.

I've been thinking about the LiteFlux UI and it really seems nice to use- You always know if the light will come on low or high (you don't have to remember how you turned it off), you don't have to advance through an unwanted mode after turning it on or off, and you can get momentary in either low or high! Really a good system. Man- I already comitted to the MK-II, but I'm feeling the "buy them both" bug biting...;).
 

amanichen

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Solstice said:
This may be true, but 10 hours+ is still a good runtime for a single AA alkaline. The resistor has the advantage of putting out a non-flickering beam that can sometimes be detected in a PWM light.
Stick a smoothing capacitor on it =)

"Hey, what's that big cylinder on the side of your light?"

"That's just the 12 farad cap to keep my light from flickering on low mode."

"Oh..."
 

LED Cool

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attached to the tail switch is a circuit board with SMT part. The SMT part looks like a resistor. it has black printing with white lettering. the white letters read "3R3".

anyone knows what "3R3" means?

LED Cool
 

abvidledUK

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LED Cool said:
attached to the tail switch is a circuit board with SMT part. The SMT part looks like a resistor. it has black printing with white lettering. the white letters read "3R3".

anyone knows what "3R3" means?

LED Cool

3.3Ω (Ω=ohms, resistor, resistance, low value)
 

jsr

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I finally took a look at the output curves on FLR, and WOW!!! that's good regulation on a crappy alkaline! That's the regulation I had expected from the L1P when I read all the ooh-ahh reviews, but was sorely disappointed and wondered for so long why it was so popular given that regulation curve (I did eventually find out the L1P's popularity lay mostly in it's lack of competition at the time and that everyone but me runs NiMH (I just get alkalines for too cheap)).

Can the head be removed and used to run like a candle with the LF1?
 

LED Cool

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Quickbeam updated his review with throw and output values for NimH AA. i hope he will post runtime graph for NimH AA & 2AA later. :goodjob:
may be 14500 as well? :thumbsup::bow:
 

Quickbeam

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I intend to, but I'm not sure when I'm going to be able to do it. Nimh runtimes need constant attention so as to avoid damaging the rechargeable cells. Most runtime tests are done fully automated, so I can get them done easily. I just don't have large blocks of time available to keep going back and checking on the test lights.
 
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