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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gifthanks for the answer.
so if i use a 4.2 v rechargeable cr123a it would work ok and not damage the emitter ? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif
christian
 
OK, I'm in the middle of moving a couple towns over right now, but I just caught up to this thread...

I hope I don't miss any questions, but here goes...

Micra is fully regulated, allows 2 hours (I've tested it as well) of runtime with no noticable dimming. When it falls out of regulation, there is a noticable difference, but it puts out usable light for another 30 minutes or so

The mini is only partially regulated. There was a question as to why it said "optional". It's not an option, but there is a regulated version of the Mini due out in the next quarter.

The Booster head IS a 30mm optic and gives a better throw they are available very soon (days, not weeks)

There is a 5W upgrade for the Mini ONLY. The upgrade will consist of a light engine that just replaces the light engine in the Mini. A 5W version is due out in the near future, the working name for it is Max.

All LongBows can operate in a CANDLE MODE by removing the head assy. I have found that it's not really necessary if you are in a room with a 6-10' ceiling. The LongBow may be suspended from the high point in a tent with the included lanyard with the head removed for a very nice, even light.

There were some tests done by a testing company called PSB that is afiliated with UL and CE. All versions of the LongBows are waterproof to 250' (not a typo). They also did a drop-test with the light in the ON position and found that the light would still function (also with no fragmentation) when dropped from a height of 20m (yes, 60').

For those wishing to "mod" a bit:

The McFlood reflector fits quite nicely in the LongBows. My guess is that if you were to modify the reflector, or polish one, it would be a very nice.

I've messed with NX-01, NX-05, Fraen LP, Fraen 30°, and a couple other optics I can't discuss. The stock optic gives the most throw and best output, but the NX-05 comes in at a close second although it does compromise the 250' waterproofness.

BATTERIES:

The Micra will run on a rechargable 123 (R-123 = 3.5V or 4.2V) and has been tested by the factory as well. If you are using a modified charger that will charge to the full 4.2V, it will work as well. The LED will be in direct drive until the voltage drops down to the point where Vin is less than Vout on the converter. At this point, the output will be regulated just like with a normal 123 cell. I have not done a runtime test yet, as I haven't had time to modify my charger to go to the 4.2V, but I will do a run with the 3.5V charged R-123 I've got to get an idea of runtime once it's started regulation. Maybe KJ or Roy are already working on this?

The Mini will run from the Pila 168s (3.7V) with no issues. The brightness is less, but I got usable light from my Mini for well over 4 hours on a 168s. That being said, a regulated Mini may get some serious runtime.

The factory tested the R-123's in the Mini (2xR-123 = 7V or 8.4V). Their response was that it's "not recommended". They commented that the head got VERY hot and overdrove the LED too hard. They also commented that it could quite possibly damage the circuit as well.

SO, I hope there's nothing I've missed. I hope to be on the forums a little more soon although I've got a little flashaholic on the way in a matter of a couple weeks or so.

EDIT: clarified voltages on R-123 and Pila 168s
 
The R-123 and the Pila have the same voltage. Why no issue with the Mini with R-123 vs Pila? Or did interpet what you said wrong?
Chris /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
The R-123 is 3.5V, 4.2V if charged with a modified charger.

The Pila 168s is 3.7V.

The Micra will accept 1 x R-123

The Mini will accept a Pila 168s, but will not take the R-123's because it would be 2 x R-123. That pushes the voltage to as high as 8.4V, which is not acceptable -- just too much juice.

I'll clarify this in the original post...
 
wow, that was an answer. thanks beretta /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif
does bulldog sell longbow overseas. he didnt sell surefire oz.
christian
 
beretta,

Do you have a turbo head pic you could post side by side a standard size head? Does the lens holder screw off? can a LED capsule be sold seperately? I started picking the epoxy off my LED capsule but quickly stopped i didn't want to mess anything up since it was the only one i had.
 
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This pic is the closest I can come to showing the two heads side-by-side:

longbow_03.jpg


The entire head assembly comes apart, just as the standard head. I just don't know if this 30mm optic is one piece or not. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

The LED capsule may be available separately. Colors are availble, but those will be in my next shipment. I would suggest holding off takng things apart until I get them... unless you feel confident enough to "explore" and you'd be able to fix it if something bad happened. Exploratory surgery is not covered in the warranty. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Hmm /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif I wonder If the 30mm optic is similar to Electrolumes' design in anyway. After all it is someone else making them for Wayne. Maybe it's the same guys? Guess we'll have to wait and see.

When are they due in for retail sale?
 
Interesting stuff. I'm going to experiment with spacing different optics when I get the time. Got the Longbow optic in my KL1, and wouldn't you know...it puts out a wider beam with some usable spill. For now the Carcl(?) will stay in my SF, and the Fraen LP in my Micra.
btw, 3.7V is just spec on the Pila 168S. It is actually ~4.2V when fully charged, and by the time it's down to 3.7V, it's about dead. I'll try running my L4 until it drops out of regulation, and checking...
 
Beretta,

Thanks for the reply i hope the LED capsules do become available seperately if the price is reasonable I'd like to try and open it up and see if it can be tweaked.

According to the owners manual " 1xcr123a 3volt battery, or, 2x 1/5A nimh 1.2v rechargeable batteries" may be used anyone have any experience with these type of batteries? what kind of efficiency? it also notes shorter burn time and slightly diminished brightness.
 
Okay, you all have me interested in this Longbow flashlight. I hope that Quickbeam and LEDMuseum can review this light soon.
 
My first time doing beamshots so bare with me. Just tryin to keep the thread interesting.

left to right:
Long bow micra stock, ARC LSH-S, MMag with BB500 S bin 3W Fraen LP
longbow_arc_bb500.jpg


The yellow green of the LSH-S is not that bad the pic came out like that.




In the same order:

beamshots.jpg
 
sidespill - I have a newbie question . I notice that the LB & Minimag and to some extent the ARC beamshots hotspots have centers that are darker than thier suround. May I assume that's an anomally related to the emitter or is it a photographic issue. Did you use a film camera or a digital camera for that picture? Thanks.
 
I used a digital and yeah i kinda see what you're talking about. No the hotspots are really "hotspots" I shot these against a plain white wall don't know if that's a no no. If anyone's got advice I'm all ears for learning.
 
Sidespill
It's puzzling indeed. Phenomenonally, you are only supposed to get the negative reversal effect- the hotspot photographing and measuring darker that it appear to the eye if inverse reciprocity has occured. inverse reciprocity is a a peculiarity of photographic film. And I didn't know it occered in digital photography. I't not really a topic for discussion here but I only noticed it when I looked at your beamshots . I'll have to look further into it, since it can affect our judgement of beamshots. Take a look at what happened when I processed your beamshot in Photoshop : http://www.imagometrics.com/FLReviews/hddn.html
 
Sidespill
It's puzzling indeed. Phenomenonally, you are only supposed to get the negative reversal effect- the hotspot photographing and measuring darker than it appears to the eye- if inverse reciprocity has occured. Inverse reciprocity is a peculiarity of photographic film, especially at temperatures above absolute zero. And I didn't know it occured in digital photography as well. unless those dark centers are really an emitter/optical phenomenon. I'ts not really a topic for discussion here but I only noticed it when I looked at your beamshots . I'll have to look further into it, since it can affect our judgement of beamshots in general. Take a look at what happened when I processed your beamshot in Photoshop : http://www.imagometrics.com/FLReviews/hddn.html
The culprit is not you or your process but the intensity of the illumination entering the lens. I bet that someone with a meter would measure that 'hotspot' as indeed being brighter than it appears in the picture. A histogram would prove that it's indeed brighted. Great Beamshots by the way!
 
What filter did you apply to the beamshot? In the original picture, I don't see the center is dark...
 
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