Looking for AAA flashlight with a specific set of features

[BMV]

Hi everybody,

After a few years out of CPF, I return to ask for your advice one more time. I find your collective knowledge of the flashlight market to be vast and up to date, and this knowledge has served me well in the past.

I currently own an Arc-P, a Fenix PD30, an Ultrafire 4xCR123A and a Surefire G2 with the old incandescent bulb.

I have carried the Arc-P as an EDC for several years, on a lanyard. It still works like a charm, but now I am looking for something more powerful to replace it. I even hear there are a few 100~150 Lumens AAA models out there. I almost ordered a Balder TD-0 after reading some reviews, but I was feeling guilty about getting it before consulting you guys over here.

Here is what I am looking for:

- The single most important feature is high output. Runtime is not important at all.

- It must use ordinary AAA batteries. 1xAAA or 2xAAA.

- Size does not matter, it will not ever be carried on a keychain. Bigger is better.

- I would prefer a forward clicky, but twisties and tailcap clickies won´t be ruled out.

- Price is not that important, but I would prefer to keep it under 100 USD, the lower the better.

I have been overwhelmed with the sheer number of choices in the market. If you can help me out here, any suggestions would be awesome. Best regards to all. :twothumbs

 

[snakyjake]

Thrunite Ti2.

 

[foreman]

one of the nitecxre t series.

 

[DirtyRat]

I'm curious as to why you insist on a AAA flashlight if size isn't important, and high output is a must. I've used a single AA flashlight everyday for the past year and am thoroughly tickled with it. The Zebralight SC51 is my workhorse. I used several AAx2 and AAAx3 lights before it, and they all pale in comparison. If you insist on a AAA light, then unfortunately I can't help.

But I did come looking for a AAA flashlight to replace my latest dead Coast, and I'm glad people steered me to a Zebralight, great flashlight.

Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk HD

 

[pepekraft]

for 1xAAA maybe a Lumintop Tool AAA?

in 2xAAA the Preon P2 still looks good.

both are reverse clicky tho. (links are to selfbuilt's reviews. the Preon review is a few years old now, I imagine the new XP-G2 will be even brighter than his measurements).

If you're not in a hurry, there's the MBI Torpedo, which will have a control ring to twist.

 

[yoyoman]

Your requirements seem to be in conflict. Highest output is the most important criteria, but only primary AAA cells and size doesn't matter? What do you mean by output - throw or floody?

I have a weakness for AAA lights and just got a bunch more, including a couple with the new XP-G2. Olight I3S, Thrunite Ti2, Tank007 E09, Maratac Cu AAA, Spark SK7, Peak Eiger with large optic head and Peak Eiger with mule. I'm running them all on 10440 Li-ions and they are brighter with the Li-ions than with primary cells. They will all run on primary cells but they are brighter with Li-ions. The Peak Eigers are my favorites, especially the mule head running on a 10180 Li-ion.

 

[BMV]

Snakyjake, Foreman and Pepekraft: Thank you for your suggestions. I am looking at the lumen specifications of these and other models, but I am having a hard time differentiating between the truthful ones and the sales pitches. Bear in mind all this is coming from a user´s perspective, I am obviously not an expert. I find CPF to be a very friendly place, and I wish I could contribute more, but a lot of threads and discussions are confusing to mere users like myself. Don´t get me wrong, but you guys are just too into it :twothumbs. I wondered whether the most effective approach would be to research the newest emitters, select the latest one, and just find something with it, but I am coming to realise that even the capabilities of a same emitter can be explored in different ways in different models.

Dirtyrat: It is all about uniformity of batteries. Besides being my EDC, I use the Arc-P as a primary, emergency flashlight while hiking. I only hike during the day, and only through relatively short distances. I am a Brazilian, I live in southwest Brazil and I am fortunate enough to know and visit a lot of waterfalls around my area. I plan my hikes in a way such that I can go and come back at daylight, in the same day. The reason I take the Arc-P is because I fully trust it. I know it is outdated, but for this particular MO it is very appropriate. I only rarely had to turn it on, and when I did it was aways when I was walking back, and dusk was settling in. I would even have done alright without it. This new light I am looking for would become my primary during hikes, and the Arc-P would finally be relegated to backup duty. I do not walk over very long distances, so I am not very concerned about size and weight. I already have 3 CR123A lights, I want another in AAA.

Yoyoman: I would prefer floody. I was vaguely aware that my requirements would sound contradictory, that´s why I said I was looking for something with specific features. I hope what I´ve written above clarified it. I appreciate your suggestions, but everything you guys have told me has steered me towards a 2xAAA flashlight.

Besides the Preon P2, there are a lot of models avalable at dealextreme and other chinese websites. Again I am bumping against the same difficulty: the LM specs simply can´t be trusted. Please take a look at this model for instance:

http://dx.com/p/romisen-rc-a6-cree-q5-wc-130-lumen-led-flashlight-grey-2-aaa-16845

Rated at 130LM. At the reviews section, a person self-qualified as an expert says it is "very very bright with an outstanding throw for such a small reflector."

Or this other one:

http://dx.com/p/cree-xr-e-q3-150lm-5-mode-white-flashlight-black-2-x-aaa-173438

Rated at 150LM. I mean, really?

How is a man to know? I might restrain my choices to products from established, reputable manufacturers, knowing that their ratings come from actual tests in laboratories with special equipment, but then again I cannot shake the feeling that I would be missing out on the latest, greatest and most affordable options.

Thanks in advance for any insight into this discussion.

 

[snakyjake]

The reason why I like the Thrunite Ti2 is because of the way I can change modes: loose (off) -> tighten (low) -> tight (high). You can also use it for momentary by squeezing the bezel. I prefer the simple interface, brightness, runtime, and the size. I use the light all the time when walking outside, when I also want to carry something lightweight without the bulk.

 

[yoyoman]

BMV, I have a Peak Eiger with a Nichia 219 mule head and you can run this on a 2 AAA body. The mule is super floody - a cone of light and no throw. I got this from Oveready and they now offer the mule head with the XP-G2 led and I believe this will be brighter than the Nichia. The QTC is a nice way to control brightness levels - no circuits that rob energy and very reliable. It is an option that you may want to consider. You can also get other bodies and the delrin caps - this provides a great way to carry extra cells. This isn't a cheap set up, but it is very, very nice. The mule head is an extreme flood and they also offer the small optic, which is still floody.

AAA lights with the XP-G2 will generally be floody because of the small head and relatively large led. I'm not technical and there are threads that will explain and debate this (I'm not providing the link, but there is a thread asking if the XR-E is the king of throw).

The only 2 AAA light that I have is an old Underwater Kinetics 2 AAA. The 2 cells are side by side which makes a more compact light. The light is not bright enough for your needs and I only mention it because it is very reliable and waterproof.

I used to travel to Curitiba and Santa Cruz de Sol a lot. But it was for business and I never saw the sights. Argentines believe the south of Brazil is beautiful because it is close to heaven (Argentina).

 

[EZO]

Get a Tank007 TK 703, put a 10440 battery in it (which it is designed for) and you'll have a single AAA flashlight that will astonish you with how bright and throwy it is. It is even quite bright with a standard alkaline which I see is one of you criteria, now that I've looked at your post again. It's also got a rear clicky, which is a welcome feature in a single AAA torch. (DX-SKU: 26988) There is also a two AAA version of this light, the E06 (DX- SKU: 22935).

 

[Danielsan]

Im using the Thrunite Ti since a year or so and im not happy with this light at all, the high mode works only occasional

 

[yoyoman]

Im using the Thrunite Ti since a year or so and im not happy with this light at all, the high mode works only occasional

It may be the size of the cell that you're using. The crush pad at the bottom could be a litle too short. Or the switch at the top around the threads could be a little loose and finicky. I have Ti2 and I had problems using an unprotected 10440 and somebody suggested I tinker with it a little bit. I haven't touched it because I like running a regular primary on this particular light but the advise sounded reasonable and I'll pass it on to you.

 

[jorn]

Dont think the trunite ti is all that rugged. Killed 2... well they work, but getting a stable lo mode is a piain now.
As for output on the single aaa, dont get too hung up on that. Most aaa lights have ~ the same output. Hard to tell the difference between 80 and 100 lumens.
The preon 2 is pretty bright for a aaa light. For 3 aaa you can get a solarforce l2i and use a drop in module of your choice.

 

[EZO]

Most aaa lights have ~ the same output. Hard to tell the difference between 80 and 100 lumens.

That Tank007 TK-703 I mentioned blows away every other single AAA light I have in regard to throw and brightness. It is quite surprising really, even on an alkaline rather than a 10440. The beam is a bit ringy and unrefined as it is a budget light but this thing THROWS! I wish I had time to prepare some beam shot comparisons but I don't. I know many other CPFers own one of these things so perhaps others can relate their experience. In any case, it is a very rugged, well made, bright beyond expectations inexpensive flashlight with excellent knurling. I'm not exactly sure this really meets the OP's requirements but for a single AAA it is in a league of it's own compared with say, an ITP A3 EOS, for example and is far more rugged. The manufacturer rates it at 110 lumens and it may well be, perhaps more.

 

[yoyoman]

Unfortunately, BMV is looking for floody not throw. I have a Tank007 E09 - not the TK-703 - and it is good value and a pretty decent thrower, too. The PWM bugs me because it is too slow, but let's agree not to go there.

jorn brings up a good point - hard to tell the difference between 80 and 100 lumens in real life. All vendors, perhaps especially Chinese ones, fudge their numbers. Are the lumens measured at the led or out the front? Don't get hung up on the specs. Once you start that, people will bring up tint - 4000 k vs 4500 k vs 5000 k - and PWM.

 

[EZO]

Unfortunately, BMV is looking for floody not throw. I have a Tank007 E09 - not the TK-703 - and it is good value and a pretty decent thrower, too. The PWM bugs me because it is too slow, but let's agree not to go there.

jorn brings up a good point - hard to tell the difference between 80 and 100 lumens in real life. All vendors, perhaps especially Chinese ones, fudge their numbers. Are the lumens measured at the led or out the front? Don't get hung up on the specs. Once you start that, people will bring up tint - 4000 k vs 4500 k vs 5000 k - and PWM.

Oh, I really based my recommendation on BMV's first post where he said, "The single most important feature is high output." I seem to have overlooked the later post about floody.
Yeah, I agree with Jorn too that it's hard to tell the difference between 80 & 100 lumens. I haven't had to worry about PWM with the TK-703 as it is only one mode but it sure is a bright little light compared to the other single AAAs in my collection. It has a different emitter than the E09 so it's hard to compare them but the R2 is throwy too.

 

[Danielsan]

That Tank007 TK-703 I mentioned blows away every other single AAA light I have in regard to throw and brightness

Are you sure, im searching for a new AAA Keychainlight with a clicky but the Tank007 has a kind of outdated LED i guess, maybe the lumen writings on the package is only a claim from them and not ANSI?

It may be the size of the cell that you're using. The crush pad at the bottom could be a litle too short

I only use Eneloops, i noticed that the Thrunite Ti leaves a dent or notch in the eneloop cell. So how can i make the crush pad longer?

 

[EZO]

Are you sure, im searching for a new AAA Keychainlight with a clicky but the Tank007 has a kind of outdated LED i guess, maybe the lumen writings on the package is only a claim from them and not ANSI?

It is an older emitter for sure but it cranks! The unit I have will put a bright, well defined white beam spot on the wall more than twenty feet away whereas the beam spot from my ITP is larger, softer and not nearly as bright in comparison. A Tank007 TK-703 can be had for less than 11 dollars so my philosophy is if anyone finds this light of interest then go ahead and buy one. How bad could it be? Let me be clear, I use mine primarily with a 10440 which it is rated for and it has worked fine with for two years now. To my eyes it is still impressive with a plain old alkaline and throws a much brighter spot than the ITP but if you really want the potential from this light use a Li-ion. I use a TrustFire protected 10440 from DX - (SKU: 30788). This will prevent you from screwing the tail cap all the way in but a small o-ring works great to fill in the gap and makes for a great "cigarette" grip. I bought this light because it had a tail clicky but what I remember about when it arrived is that when I popped an alkaline in it and turned it on for the first time it made me smile.

 

[yoyoman]

I really like the Peak Eigers from Oveready. Both the Nichia 219 and the XP-G2 neutrals.

@Danielsan - I read on another thread that a washer, ideally a copper one, should solve your problem. I guess it doesn't have to be copper, just conductive. Also check the tab thing around the head threads.

Edit
I have a Tank007 E09 and it runs nicely on a Li-ion 10440 (AW unprotected). Very throwy. The PWM on low only bothers me when I look for it. Mine was branded (NKON.COM) and very reasonable.

 

[BMV]

I have just bought a Tank007 E06. I will try it out.

Thanks very much to everyone that took the time to answer my questions.

I am reading a lot on the more recent threads, and I am thinking about making the jump into an AA/14500 light for hiking. As much as I love the Arc-P, the truth of the matter is that its output is too weak in case of a real emergency. Would it be OK to continue the discussion on this thread or would it be better to start another one later?

Yoyoman, Curitiba is a very nice city, it is a planned city whose administration followed modern techniques of urbanism right from the start of its foundation. I live in Belo Horizonte.