Lumintop FW3A - 3D - wow, just WOW

[mikekoz]

You can update the Anduril firmware using a PC and a few development software and hardware tools. If you search for Anduril firmware update you should get some links.

Sent from my LG-V520 using Tapatalk

Doesn't this involve taking the light apart and de-soldering part of it?

 

[idleprocess]

You can update the Anduril firmware using a PC and a few development software and hardware tools. If you search for Anduril firmware update you should get some links.

No, I'm interested in periodically updating configuration file settings - i.e. thermal config, smooth ramping limits, stepped ramping steps/limits, secondaries, etc - using out-of-band means so as to limit the UI to more-intuitive usage functions. I've accidentally entered thermal config many times and find the best way to escape is just to fully power down the light by unscrewing the head - a small nuisance on the newer version light due to its near-zero margins on maintaining tailswitch connectivity.

I do however realize that even the lowest-cost options for allowing casual out-of-band configuration would be a wee bit impractical - or greatly raise costs - on many of these designs.

 

[Optiblue]

I've been a fan of this light for awhile but never pulled the trigger on it. Now they just came out with a new version the FW1A PRO which uses the Cree XHP 50.2 LED and outputs 3500 lumens in a slightly tighter beam as it has a deeper reflector. I'm sure the price will be more than the FW3A. Decisions decisions! These lights just aren't available in Canada at the price I'd like to see them at. I wish I could have the 5000k temp version but only the 6500k is FW3A is available for me at a budget price

Check it out, it throws and spreads a little better:
https://youtu.be/iA3Hloq1z90

 

[adnj]

Doesn't this involve taking the light apart and de-soldering part of it?

Yes, you would so that you can get to the μprocessor.

No, I'm interested in periodically updating configuration file settings - i.e. thermal config, smooth ramping limits, stepped ramping steps/limits, secondaries, etc - using out-of-band means so as to limit the UI to more-intuitive usage functions. I've accidentally entered thermal config many times and find the best way to escape is just to fully power down the light by unscrewing the head - a small nuisance on the newer version light due to its near-zero margins on maintaining tailswitch connectivity.

I do however realize that even the lowest-cost options for allowing casual out-of-band configuration would be a wee bit impractical - or greatly raise costs - on many of these designs.

I understand what you want to accomplish. The firmware is opensource (maybe). You can edit or rewrite values, delete functions, etc. Then compile, load and cross your fingers. I read that one user wrote firmware that emulates the Novatac Tactical.

Sent from my LG-V520 using Tapatalk

 

[Mgizler]

I've been a fan of this light for awhile but never pulled the trigger on it. Now they just came out with a new version the FW1A PRO which uses the Cree XHP 50.2 LED and outputs 3500 lumens in a slightly tighter beam as it has a deeper reflector. I'm sure the price will be more than the FW3A. Decisions decisions! These lights just aren't available in Canada at the price I'd like to see them at. I wish I could have the 5000k temp version but only the 6500k is FW3A is available for me at a budget price

Check it out, it throws and spreads a little better:
https://youtu.be/iA3Hloq1z90

I just bought an fw3a on Friday. I didn't realize the fw1a Pro was an option or I would have bought it! Man that thing is a thrower

 

[Optiblue]

I just bought an fw3a on Friday. I didn't realize the fw1a Pro was an option or I would have bought it! Man that thing is a thrower

Yeah, it's all good, still very comparable usable output! How do you find the step-down? From all the reviews I've seen, they all state that it starts doing it right after 30 seconds and it keeps on dropping until its happy zone at 500 lumens? Can you change the operating safety temps to force it to run at say 1000 lumens but just hotter?

 

[idleprocess]

I understand what you want to accomplish. The firmware is opensource (maybe). You can edit or rewrite values, delete functions, etc. Then compile, load and cross your fingers. I read that one user wrote firmware that emulates the Novatac Tactical.

Sent from my LG-V520 using Tapatalk

Yet you are suggesting a cannon to dispatch a mosquito.

 

[greatscoot]

Yet you are suggesting a cannon to dispatch a mosquito.

 

[Mgizler]

Mine will be here tomorrow. Can't wait to try it out. Seems a lot similar to the d4. I really liked the d4 but never fully warmed up to it. I'm hoping this fw3a hits the spot.

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

Mine will be here tomorrow. Can't wait to try it out. Seems a lot similar to the d4. I really liked the d4 but never fully warmed up to it. I'm hoping this fw3a hits the spot.

D4 is a better quality light, at least from a hardware perspective. It still runs Anduril, which is buggy and potentially unsafe. Read up on the D4v2 muggle mode meltdown.

Unless you really want a tail switch (which IMO is the worst part of the FW3A), you probably won't like it better than your D4.

 

[richbuff]

Buy both. Then you can make your decision based on your objective and subjective opinion that is right there in front of you. Another reason for buying both is that there will probably be some things that you like about each of them and maybe a few things that you don't like about each of them, and then you can decide which one you want to use for different purposes. I edc both, and every other day one is the back up for the other, and on other days, the two switch roles. Also, if you buy both of them, you might find out that you like both of them, but for different reasons, even though both are in a similar size and output classification, they each have different isms.

 

[Mgizler]

Just got the light. Came with a Samsung battery. Opened the light up and took off the the paper that covers the battery... screwed the light together and it comes on. The tail switch doesn't shut the light off. Weird. Have to unscrew the light

 

[Mgizler]

Ok. If I tighten the head down nice and tight, the light turns on and the switch does nothing. If I just snug it up it works fine. Can't tighten it all the way. My tailcap has a retaining ring in it also.


https://i.imgur.com/vOrJePA.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/GzPs9ha.jpg

 

[DHart]

Ok. If I tighten the head down nice and tight, the light turns on and the switch does nothing. If I just snug it up it works fine. Can't tighten it all the way. My tailcap has a retaining ring in it also.

Possible troubleshoot:
loosen head, loosen tail, tighten tail firmly, then tighten head firmly, in that order.

It's pretty common to need to loosen the tail before tightening it. The parts float around a bit, and sometimes it takes a few tries to get everything in the right spot.

http://budgetlightforum.com/search?q_as=FW3A Troubleshooting

Fortunately, mine has worked flawlessly. But I think with a slight bit of tinkering yours should work flawlessly, as well.

Great light. I love it!

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

Just got the light. Came with a Samsung battery. Opened the light up and took off the the paper that covers the battery... screwed the light together and it comes on. The tail switch doesn't shut the light off. Weird. Have to unscrew the light

Ok. If I tighten the head down nice and tight, the light turns on and the switch does nothing. If I just snug it up it works fine. Can't tighten it all the way. My tailcap has a retaining ring in it also.

Well, you were warned.

Welcome to the world of tinkering with your FW3A to get it to work.

First, you should try the most common problem... the inner sleeve isn't seated properly. So, unscrew both ends. Screw down the tailcap good and hard. Then put the battery in, and screw on the head. That might fix your problem. If not, try tightening the retaining ring(s).

 

[Mgizler]

Possible troubleshoot:
loosen head, loosen tail, tighten tail firmly, then tighten head firmly, in that order.

It's pretty common to need to loosen the tail before tightening it. The parts float around a bit, and sometimes it takes a few tries to get everything in the right spot.

http://budgetlightforum.com/search?q_as=FW3A Troubleshooting

Fortunately, mine has worked flawlessly. But I think with a slight bit of tinkering yours should work flawlessly, as well.

Great light. I love it!

Thanks for the tip!

 

[Mgizler]

Well, you were warned.

Welcome to the world of tinkering with your FW3A to get it to work.

First, you should try the most common problem... the inner sleeve isn't seated properly. So, unscrew both ends. Screw down the tailcap good and hard. Then put the battery in, and screw on the head. That might fix your problem. If not, try tightening the retaining ring(s).

Haha. I don't mind tinkering. I used to make triples from the convoy bodies on mtnelectronics for myself and wife.
So far I like the look and feel of this thing. It needs to get dark!!!!!

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[richbuff]

... So far I like the look and feel of this thing. ...

That's what counts! Even though the "I Like" is based on subjective, as well as objective factors.

The FW series is different from Fenix and different from Nitecore and HDS and different from Olight and Malkoff, too. But, that's why I like the FW series. It has some unpalpable, subjective "FW-ism" that no one else has.

 

[DHart]

That's what counts! Even though the "I Like" is based on subjective, as well as objective factors.

The FW series is different from Fenix and different from Nitecore and HDS and different from Olight and Malkoff, too. But, that's why I like the FW series. It has some unpalpable, subjective "FW-ism" that no one else has.

Agree... this FW3A is unlike any other light among the dozens of them that I have. (Ridiculous how many lights and knives I have - other things too. )

The look, feel, tint, output, UI.... all are just wonderful for me. Very glad that I bought this light.

 

[LedTed]

Primarily for their ramping brightness feature and rear clickie, I l-o-v-e my NC D11.2s. But, working on large machines and at night, sometimes my D11s couldn't put out quite enough useable light. I've wanted and needed a brighter 18650 D12 (if you will) for almost a decade.

So, when the LT FWXXs became available, I got some FW3Xs. All have the "Muggle Bug" and I had to work on all of them to get them to be reliable. But they outshine (yes double entendre intended) my D11s.

I now have an Emisar KR4 on the way. It should be an even better light than the FW3X.

That being said, and problems not ignored, the FW3A still wows me.