Lux1 upgrade?

[rangemaster]

Folks, I've got a Low dome 1w Lux driven by a Badboy 400 with a turned down McR20 reflector in a E1 head. I had it built as a utility light and it's been great for that except for the blue tint, I lost on the lottery. I get about 3 hrs run time on a single 123 primary and would like to stay around that (or gain even more) based on whatever upgrade you guys would recommend. Is there anything that would just replace the Lux 1? LOL too easy, I know.
Thanks in advance for your input.
rangemaster

 

[jzmtl]

Seoul P4 is almost a direct replacement for luxeon, at least lux 3.

 

[louie]

Indeed, the easiest upgrade is to simply replace the Lux 1 with a Seoul SSC P4 LED. The package is the same, you get about double the light output, same runtime, a very slightly different beam pattern (usually better), and great tints are easy to get. No more than $9 for the LED, a lot less if you buy offshore and can wait for delivery. The only real caveat is the bottom of the slug is not isolated, and you have to be careful to spread a little insulating epoxy under it, or some Kapton tape, or equivalent.

 

[rangemaster]

Thanks much guys. I appreciate the input.
Can you recommend anyone who would be up to doing this for me?
NOT looking for a deal, just to have it done right!
Rangemaster:thumbsup:

 

[Gunner12]

How well can you solder?

It should be kinda like this:

1. Open up the light
2. Desolder the Luxeon I
3. Remove the Luxeon I
4. Clean up the heatsink area where the LED touched(there should be some thermal compound behind the LED)
5. Apply a thin layer of AA to the heatsink.
6. Wait for the epoxy to partially cure and check form continuity.
7. If it's isolated, use the AA to epoxy the Seoul LED onto the surface, making sure the LED and the contacts are at the right place(+ and -).
8. Solder the LED in.
9. Reassemble the light.

Keep in mind that I don't have experience with this, this is pretty much what I've seen on most LED swaps. If the LED is on a star, then you could skip steps 5 and 6.

Milkyspit and a few others would be willing to do the swap for you.

 

[rangemaster]

Thank you Gunner. I just might try it. Where would I get a P4 SSC in a white to 'warm' tint (and Kapton tape)?
'rangemaster'

 

[jzmtl]

I bought everything from dealextreme to use on my maglite, they work well. I didn't use anything to specificly isolate the ssc's bottom, the thermal glue I used seem to work fine, the ssc in my maglite is still working.

 

[nein166]

A U-bin (USWO) is the Warmest Seoul you'll find on DealExtreme

If you see USVO or USXO your going more towards the blue.
I've done a few swaps with Seoul Semiconductor U-bin leds.
What Gunner says is good. Put the epoxy on very thin but even.
The little Notch is on the negative side of the SSC, if I remember there was a hole on the Positive side of a LuxI.

Also if the current heatsink is held in place to keep the LED from pressing onto the McR20 then you will need to shim the SSC up .030". But if the LED goes right to the reflector then after swapping the SSC it will just go into the head .030" more.

I use this tape to isolate. It came with a Kapton label starting the roll like some 3M/Scotch brands have. So it seems to be genuine Kapton

 

[nein166]

Indeed, the easiest upgrade is to simply replace the Lux 1 with a Seoul SSC P4 LED. The package is the same, you get about double the light output, same runtime, a very slightly different beam pattern (usually better), and great tints are easy to get. No more than $9 for the LED, a lot less if you buy offshore and can wait for delivery. The only real caveat is the bottom of the slug is not isolated, and you have to be careful to spread a little insulating epoxy under it, or some Kapton tape, or equivalent.

Kapton tape is made to resist heat, its not designed for transfering heat away from what its taped onto. It will however isolate the electric flowing from the heatsink. Arctic Alumina Epoxy is made to take heat and move it away, Arctic Silver Epoxy does it better but is slightly conductive.

 

[Stereodude]

Kapton tape is made to resist heat, its not designed for transfering heat away from what its taped onto. It will however isolate the electric flowing from the heatsink. Arctic Alumina Epoxy is made to take heat and move it away, Arctic Silver Epoxy does it better but is slightly conductive.

The tape is so thin though it does not dramatically impede the flow of heat. However a very thin layer of Arctic Alumina would obviously be better.

 

[Stereodude]

A U-bin (USWO) is the Warmest Seoul you'll find on DealExtreme

If you see USVO or USXO your going more towards the blue.
I've done a few swaps with Seoul Semiconductor U-bin leds.
What Gunner says is good. Put the epoxy on very thin but even.
The little Notch is on the negative side of the SSC, if I remember there was a hole on the Positive side of a LuxI.

I prefer to buy the SSC U bin LEDs from Kaidomain instead of DX since they tell the Voltage bin (H).