Best battery upgrade for 3 D maglite?

MA2ZAK

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I just found this site, and tried searching as best I could but I can't find an exact answer. I have a 3 D maglite and I am thinking of doing a battery upgrade that is rechargeable. I am unsure what the "strongest" battery I can put in. I feel like I am between 18650 and 26650 (bonus points if you can point me in the direction of a cheap sleeve for the batteries.)

Also, I feel like I am stuck between the 325 and 800 lumencraft drop in upgrades. Is the difference between 800 and 325 huge?
 
You will definitely see a difference between 800 and 325 Lumens. Take a look at the malkoff site. Lots of options there.
 
You will definitely see a difference between 800 and 325 Lumens. Take a look at the malkoff site. Lots of options there.
Thanks, That is what I have up, along with the lumencraft site. Just trying to figure out my "best" battery setup.
 
Nothing wrong with lumencraft. I'm running their 2x 26650 conversion kit with sleeve and shorty tail spring in a 5D (with their dummies x3)
The 325lm keeps the stock flood/spot focus ability. I also have their 4200lm which is more than I'll ever need tbh. It has a broad flood beam with no spot. But has options for moonlight to very bright. Easy to program and has memory if wanted.

Between the two you listed, if you need/want the extra light, 800lm is the way to go. Get the glass lens upgrade with it. I'm not familiar with the spot/flood beam type/quality. But it will be noticeably brighter than the 325.

If you get the 2200, 3500, 4200lm drop ins. Definitely get the glass lens. They'll get pretty hot. You'll lose the ability to change the focus with any of these. But again, gain custom/programmability. (several steps from very dim to very bright, strobe, beacon)

Have fun on your quest!

PS- Lee is in the office mon -wed -fri so don't fret if it takes a couple of days to get a reply for any Q you may have.
 
I just found this site, and tried searching as best I could but I can't find an exact answer. I have a 3 D maglite and I am thinking of doing a battery upgrade that is rechargeable. I am unsure what the "strongest" battery I can put in. I feel like I am between 18650 and 26650 (bonus points if you can point me in the direction of a cheap sleeve for the batteries.)

Also, I feel like I am stuck between the 325 and 800 lumencraft drop in upgrades. Is the difference between 800 and 325 huge?
Two LiFePO4 32700 plus a short spacer has worked will for me in 3D MagLites.
 
I just found this site, and tried searching as best I could but I can't find an exact answer. I have a 3 D maglite and I am thinking of doing a battery upgrade that is rechargeable. I am unsure what the "strongest" battery I can put in. I feel like I am between 18650 and 26650 (bonus points if you can point me in the direction of a cheap sleeve for the batteries.)

Also, I feel like I am stuck between the 325 and 800 lumencraft drop in upgrades. Is the difference between 800 and 325 huge?
Hey buddy, I have a 3D sleeved for a 26650 and one running a single 18650. Just PVC pipe and Gorilla-brand duct tape. I'll shoot some recent pictures of the setup and post them later.
 
Nothing wrong with lumencraft. I'm running their 2x 26650 conversion kit with sleeve and shorty tail spring in a 5D (with their dummies x3)
The 325lm keeps the stock flood/spot focus ability. I also have their 4200lm which is more than I'll ever need tbh. It has a broad flood beam with no spot. But has options for moonlight to very bright. Easy to program and has memory if wanted.

Between the two you listed, if you need/want the extra light, 800lm is the way to go. Get the glass lens upgrade with it. I'm not familiar with the spot/flood beam type/quality. But it will be noticeably brighter than the 325.

If you get the 2200, 3500, 4200lm drop ins. Definitely get the glass lens. They'll get pretty hot. You'll lose the ability to change the focus with any of these. But again, gain custom/programmability. (several steps from very dim to very bright, strobe, beacon)

Have fun on your quest!

PS- Lee is in the office mon -wed -fri so don't fret if it takes a couple of days to get a reply for any Q you may have.
Thanks so much. I'm definitely not looking in the 2-4k range; just trying to give my old light a second life. I don't know how much I do or don't want to keep the twist/focus feature. This is the first time I've ever put more thought into a flashlight than, will it make light where it was dark before? I feel like my use case for this light is something to use in the yard when the kids wanna "camp" or if they want to hold the flashlight while Dad swears - I mean works on the car.

When doing the battery upgrade, is it possible to use the stock tail spring in the maglite or do I need to upgrade that as well?
 
Hey buddy, I have a 3D sleeved for a 26650 and one running a single 18650. Just PVC pipe and Gorilla-brand duct tape. I'll shoot some recent pictures of the setup and post them later.
This is the innovation I was looking for for! That is a great idea. Are you able to use the stock tail spring or does that need to be replaced? Also, how do you decide on which battery to use? I'm currently googling, but wondering if there is a preference or method to the madness.
 
^Just an FYI, the 800 lumen conversion does not have adjustable beam. It is very throwy. Browse the Lumencraft site, they have lots of battery options, either eneloop in adapters or Li Ion in adapters.
As a smooth brained novice, what are the pros/cons of losing the adjustably and what are the pros/cons of having a throwy light?
 
Aren't those Lumencraft upgrades considerably more expensive than getting a new LED Mag?
Probably. But it is a sentimental gift that I've had for a long time. Not really about min/maxing. I agree it is both easier and cheaper to just get something new, but this way I can give my light a second life.
 
Thanks so much. I'm definitely not looking in the 2-4k range; just trying to give my old light a second life. I don't know how much I do or don't want to keep the twist/focus feature. This is the first time I've ever put more thought into a flashlight than, will it make light where it was dark before? I feel like my use case for this light is something to use in the yard when the kids wanna "camp" or if they want to hold the flashlight while Dad swears - I mean works on the car.

When doing the battery upgrade, is it possible to use the stock tail spring in the maglite or do I need to upgrade that as well?
I get that. I've upgraded an old mag that was a gift 25yrs ago.
If you get the one cell kit and a dummy for your 3D mag you won't need the shorty spring, lumencraft has that option. The 2-cell kit comes with the shorty spring.

The 1 or 2 cell kits come with everything for a 2D mag. 1 cell kit uses stock spring + button to match new 26650.
2 cell kit uses shorty spring that comes with the kit and matches the 26650. 26650 cells won't match the springs without a button or shorty spring.
You will add - via lumencraft or on your own:
1 dummy cell (or equivalent spacer)
1 or 2 batteries (depending on which kit you get)
*lens optional

The PVC pipe works great, but measure the inside diameter of the pipe carefully to match your new cell's O.D.
Different types of PVC have different I.D. thicknesses.
 
Probably. But it is a sentimental gift that I've had for a long time. Not really about min/maxing. I agree it is both easier and cheaper to just get something new, but this way I can give my light a second life.
I can understand that. My sentimental stuff usually ends up on the shelf but get why you wouldn't.
 
Hey @MA2ZAK,

You gotta match the voltage to the LED.

Top one is an older widebody 3D with a decent PR-based bulb for a 2-3 cell, which is 3 to 4.5 volts, so a 3.7-4.2 volt li-ion is perfect. The spacer is aluminum rod with Gorilla tape around it.

The bottom one is a newer D-serial with an oddball Malkoff module made for "4 NiMH D-cells" but Gene verified a single li-ion is perfect. The spacer is aluminum rod epoxied inside a piece of PVC pipe.

The tailcaps need work, The big fat spring made to hold D-cells usually has the coil too big to hit the center of a li-ion, so I'll bend it with pliers. Or, if you notice the top tailcap has a very thin spring from a different smaller light like a cheap plastic Everyready. Those big Mag springs can be too much for a li-ion battery. You want connectivity but don't want to crush the terminals down. Notive I also soldered in bypass wires in the tailcaps.

As always, follow all li-ion safety rules like don't short circuit them or put them under undue physical stress. The big D-cell world of the Maglite architecture can be unforgiving. You want to measure the spacer rod to allow some give, not have the cell crushed by the tailcap. You balance the length of the spacer rod and the stiffness of the spring. Periodically check the battery for deformation.

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There is a cheap simple mod. Just go to the store and get some D to AA battery adapters. Get Energizer Lithium AA cells. The light will suddenly be MUCH lighter to carry around without the huge D cells. The extra voltage the Energizer Lithium AA gives you should be noticeable. Huge difference than stock? A "touch" brighter and a LOT lighter. You lose massive run times though. Energizer D cells are roughly an amazing 15000 mah. Yep 15000mah. That is a LOT. The new XML2 Mags are the bet they have made. Good luck.
 
Eneloop in adapters for the win.

Regarding focus ability, we'd often adjust the incan to provide a really narrow spot for the best throw since they weren't very bright and the gentle spill was enough to see your walking area, although not brightly. Good enough with dark adapted eyes.

With a much brighter LED conversion (both 350 and 800) the wall of bright light makes a huge difference. Either will be plenty in really dark settings. But when competing with light pollution (some call free lumens) like in a well lit street setting with lots of shadows, the 800 is the better option to bust up the shadows.

Here's a stupid simple option for batteries.
Tenergy rechargeble D cells. I like Powerex but they're more expensive.
 
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