- Dec 7, 2022
- West Virginia, North America
I switch between rechargeables and primaries, but use rechargeables for most of my daily use.In that flashlight, do you prefer rechargeables?
Is it brighter than with 3.0 volts? Do you know where I can read up on voltage converters and regulators used in flashlights? If the Aviator uses an efficient converter or regulator, it may be indifferent to the exact battery voltage.I switch between rechargeables and primaries, but use rechargeables for most of my daily use.
There are numerous reports of people using 3.7V batteries without problems and occasionally I put the Aviator head on a two-cell SureFire body with a 16650. Works great and the head never gets overly hot, even when it's on high for a while. It isn't an officially sanctioned combination, so try it at your own risk.
I asked my neighbor if they let him keep his flashlight. He said he had to turn it in. It had a serial number and was considered part of his rifle. In that case, I'm sure they wouldn't have let soldiers supply their own rechargeable batteries any more than their own hand loaded ammunition. The Secretary of the Army probably wouldn't care about your or my opinion, but I think you should call him up and give him a piece of your mind.Their are no recharbable batteries in war. I can say that in many different ways, but I'm being lazy today.
I definitely would not recommend trying a 3.7V 16340 in the light - even briefly.Maybe Surefire includes 1 rechargeable battery to coax the consumer to buy 2 more and a charger for $32, and all 3 cells together would have less run time than 1 primary cell.
My lithium iron phosphate Surefire cell has 3.2 volts. I don't know if that means the light I found was barely used.
In case I decide I'll be using a lot of "on" time, I see that Taken offers a charger with four 3 volt lithium iron phosphate cells for $27.
Instantly and without warning? Is that a protection circuit in the cell? What makes the K2's different? (A protection circuit will shut off an ebike battery if the voltage gets too low, but you can tell it's coming, and if you give the battery a moment, you can continue.)I definitely would not recommend trying a 3.7V 16340 in the light - even briefly.
Also keep in mind that most of the newer '3.0V' cells (such as are invariably suggested here) on the market die instantly and without warning when discharged completely. Straight line to 0V on the ol' graph. Instant darkness.
For LFP123s, I've been using these with good results in 'EDIT: CR123A' LED lights for some years. They're from K2 Energy. Here's the datasheet they provided. They're also available bundled w/2-slot charger if you don't have an appropriate one. My last K2 order was with with 'batteriesinaflash', and they did a good job.
About 1976, I wrote to Rayovac with a question, and a lady sent me a selection of krypton flashlight bulbs. Drawing 500ma at 2.38v, the PR2 seemed to have been invented to increase sales carbon-zinc D cells by making a pair go dim in a matter of minutes. Drawing something like 1000ma, these krypton bulbs seemed to be intended to dim alkaline cells just as fast.If I EDC a light with a rechargeable battery in it, I carry a spare primary or a fully charged rechargeable spare cell in a battery locker. That's along with a high-output 2AAA penlight as back-up with Eneloops in it. Once high mode in the penlight no longer works and all I get is low or medium, I charge up the batts. the next day. If all else fails, there's a short and lightweight single-AAA flashlight with an Energizer lithium primary in it for just-in-case use, on my keychain. The penlight handles all of the mundane lighting chores I encounter. The main light is for the bigger jobs.
If using a rechargeable, don't risk damaging the light by going above the recommended voltage. And, either carry a spare battery or a 2nd light. Honestly, using a primary is not the most cost effective option. But it definitely is the easiest.
Just to clarify, what I'm referring to are viable secondary / rechargeable alternatives to a CR123A primary cell in 1xCR123A LED lights such as the Aviator you have, and their pros and cons.Instantly and without warning? Is that a protection circuit in the cell? What makes the K2's different? (A protection circuit will shut off an ebike battery if the voltage gets too low, but you can tell it's coming, and if you give the battery a moment, you can continue.)
My Fenix HL 21 used to quit without warning when the battery got low, usually when I tried to switch if on, and sometimes while on. That's why I learned to change batteries with one hand in the dark.
batteriesinaflash shows appealing prices in search results, but when you click an item, the price is much higher. I haven't seen that before.
Thanks. My Fenix HL121 would go from full brightness to dead without warning. Fortunately, I could change the AA cell with one hand in the dark.Just to clarify, what I'm referring to are viable secondary / rechargeable alternatives to a CR123A primary cell in 1xCR123A LED lights such as the Aviator you have, and their pros and cons.
The K2 cell I recommended is a LFP (LiFePO4) chemistry rechargeable cell (nominal rated output 3.2V / and charged @3.6V)) and is considered the 'nominal' type of cell for use as a secondary cell to replace a CR123A primary cell in many applications. For discussion purposes, it may be considered the same 'type' of cell Surefire sells for this application.
You may be OK with that last one, but I am not OK with it. The only reason I brought this to your attention is because those who recommend such 'regulated Li-ion' cells (such as the Keeppower mentioned in this thread) usually do not mention this 'feature' of such cells. I also note that neither the Keeppower web site product page for this cell nor the product page I found for these cells at the site of a primary U.S. distributor of these cells mentions it either. It seems no one really wants you to know about it, but I felt I should inform you of it to avoid your possibly unknowingly using them and finding yourself in a bad situation because no one else informed you of it. Again, you may or may not care, but I felt it was good for you to make a fully informed decision. Your choice - doesn't matter to me.
Regarding the K2 cells I recommended and their pricing: I did a G-search for them, noted that the first result I saw was for the referenced distributor (which I have used), clicked the link, and it took me directly here:
If you don't already have charger(s) that can do LFP cells and would need to get one, this link shows their $10 charger, and also have it bundled with either 2 or 4 cells. When bundled with the charger, it appears you'd pay only ~$5 ea. for the cells, so that would be a small savings over the unit price.
Roger that, samoset - I understand the confusion issue now, because it happened to me too!Thanks. My Fenix HL121 would go from full brightness to dead without warning. Fortunately, I could change the AA cell with one hand in the dark.
On the search you linked, it says their charger with two cells is $20, but when I click it, it changes to $35. Whatever brand I buy, I'll see if it has a low-voltage cutoff. Thanks.
Their are no rechargable batteries in war. I can say that in many different ways, but I'm being lazy today.