M@glite Mod Advice

[Benson]

You'd need 1 dummy cell, not 3 -- you can only fit two stacks of 18650 in a D Mag (and that only if it's bi- or quad-bored), and 18650s being just a hair longer than a D cell, you'll (probably) get 2x3=6 in a 3D, so only one dummy cell. or possibly offset the 5th cell to the centerline (would require a spacer with contacts/wires to maintain electrical contact, and a centering tube for mechanical support) and protruding into the tailcap. I think you can make it with the simpler no-offset option if you trim the switch body aggressively, but it all depends on the specific cell dimensions.

As for your runtime numbers, add cells in parallel to increase capacity, or in series to increase voltage. Since you need the 16V or so, you're adding them in series; that means the entire pack still has a capacity of 1100 (or 1500) mAh. At the sort of discharge rates you're considering, you'll want to go with good cells, such as A123s; while I'm not familiar with the LiFe options available, I suspect the 1.5Ah cells you found probably can't handle the 12A current.

But I'm not sure where you came up with a runtime of 4.5 minutes, either; if you had a 5.5Ah pack (as you mistakenly figured), you should get 5.5Ah/12A = almost a half-hour; a 1.1Ah pack yields 5.5 minutes.

 

[Conte]

Um yeah, when you are adding the capacity of cells, 1100X5=1100.

In series you increase voltage but the mAh stays the same.
In parallel as Benson mentioned, the mAh will increase, but the voltage stays the same.

That's why a AA lifepo4 cell @ 600mAh is mostly usless.

You figure you're looking at a 12amp draw ?
600/12000 = 0.05 of an hour. 5% of 60 is 3 mins. And cause voltage drops under load will not get peak brightness. And you will only not get peak brightness for less then a min, cause the cells working voltage will drop as they drain.
FURTHERMORE ! Those little puny batteries wouldn't even be able to handle that discharge rate. The specs look grim.
If you want to go AA you'll have to go NiMH.

A 18650 cell should be for for up to 10c. So a 1500mAh cell, could do it.
If its really 1500 (they lie). 1100 would be pushing is.

There is no getting around it, if you want to push major wattage, you need a Major Power Plant. This light is not going to be smallif you want to use Lifepo4. I'd get a 4D then get one of Fivemega's 88mm extensions tubes HERE. Then you'll have the perfect length to drop in 5x26650.

Here is ANOTHER idea to consider, since you are using softstart.
Why did I not think og this before, it's perfect.
In a 3D you use 4xIMR26500 cells found HERE.

They have the same capacity as the Lifepo4 26650 cells and can drive up to 20amps.

4 of these cells will fit in a 3D with the same kind of tailcap mod you were going to do with with 5D. You'll even gain a touch more voltage.
16.8v right off the charger without load.

Now, the 150watt bulb might not be your best bet still.

Compare the 100watt 623 HERE,
To the 633 HERE.

Notice the Lumen values in that voltage range. The 623 is almost brighter on account that it is being hit with a harder overdrive.
Also, as the 623 will probably burn whiter in that range, it will "APPEAR" brighter. No really, I've tried it. The light quality will also be nicer at lower volumes when to throttle it down using the Incan Driver.
Tooo High output a light, get yellow and crumby looking when turned down sometimes.

IF you want to run the 633, I'd almost say get a 6D and put 6 lifepo4 cells in there. 19.8 working volts. With the softstart, the 12 amp load should sag enough to bring it down lower then 18 and you'll get almost 10,000 Lumens.


But Honestly, HONESTLY, my advice, from a guy who has been hotwiring a while.

Get the 3D, put in the AW D Incan Driver, Get 4xIMR26500's, With your Mop Reflector, and a 64623, and let'er rip.

Then once they have gotten over the stealth fo the stock looking head, screw on a Fivemega Throwmaster and shoot that beam for miles to futher awe them.

One you've hit that 8000 lumen range, niether you nor your buddies are going to notice an extra 2000. Especially since those 8000 lumens are whiter. You'll blow your buddies minds, you'll be able to light fires (be carefull), and you'll do it out of a 3D package. It's honestly the best combo, that's why the 623 is way more popular then the 633.

 

[The Dane]

You really need a FiveMega Elephant body, made for quad 18650's!

 

[Benson]

A 18650 cell should be for for up to 10c. So a 1500mAh cell, could do it.
If its really 1500 (they lie). 1100 would be pushing is.

The 1100 we're talking about is a genuine A123 cell, and can handle 30A; 12A shouldn't be "pushing it" IMO.

Here is ANOTHER idea to consider, since you are using softstart.
Why did I not think og this before, it's perfect.
In a 3D you use 4xIMR26500 cells found HERE.

They have the same capacity as the Lifepo4 26650 cells and can drive up to 20amps.

4 of these cells will fit in a 3D with the same kind of tailcap mod you were going to do with with 5D. You'll even gain a touch more voltage.
16.8v right off the charger without load.

While that might be more voltage under load than the A123 18650s (I haven't looked at the numbers, but I doubt it), it's less no-load voltage, as 5x3.6=18V, and for sure less voltage under load than 5 26650s. And adding a 5th LiMn to actually get more voltage doesn't work, as you'll blow the bulb for sure.

 

[Conte]

The 1100 we're talking about is a genuine A123 cell, and can handle 30A; 12A shouldn't be "pushing it" IMO.

This is true, I was referencing some other generic cells.
If he gets 1500 mAh cells, they defiantly wont' be A123 tho.

While that might be more voltage under load than the A123 18650s (I haven't looked at the numbers, but I doubt it), it's less no-load voltage, as 5x3.6=18V, and for sure less voltage under load than 5 26650s. And adding a 5th LiMn to actually get more voltage doesn't work, as you'll blow the bulb for sure.

:thinking:
I'm a bit confused as to what this has to do with the part you quoted.
I don't ever recall suggesting he add a 5th LiMn ? I suggested adding a 6th LiFe cell. Which I admit IS an untested idea. I'll probably give it a while, when all my lego is in and I score a 633 bulb.

I've tested 4xIMR26500 tho. No Poof. If he uses a softstart, No Load voltage is not an issue.

 

[Flashlight Aficionado]

Here is ANOTHER idea to consider, since you are using softstart.
Why did I not think og this before, it's perfect.
In a 3D you use 4xIMR26500

But Honestly, HONESTLY, my advice, from a guy who has been hotwiring a while.

Get the 3D, put in the AW D Incan Driver, Get 4xIMR26500's, With your Mop Reflector, and a 64623, and let'er rip.

Then once they have gotten over the stealth fo the stock looking head, screw on a Fivemega Throwmaster and shoot that beam for miles to futher awe them.

One you've hit that 8000 lumen range, niether you nor your buddies are going to notice an extra 2000. Especially since those 8000 lumens are whiter. You'll blow your buddies minds, you'll be able to light fires (be carefull), and you'll do it out of a 3D package. It's honestly the best combo, that's why the 623 is way more popular then the 633.

You've convinced me. I'll make a M@g623 with 4xIMR26500 with the softstart in a 3D host. I got all the links for the parts. (can't find a cammed reflector though) Does this mod require any boring? If so, tri or quad?

 

[Conte]

You've convinced me. I'll make a M@g623 with 4xIMR26500 with the softstart in a 3D host. I got all the links for the parts. (can't find a cammed reflector though) Does this mod require any boring? If so, tri or quad?

Well, I thought you were saying you were going to use the Reflector from the Sandwhich shoppe site, for a stock look ?
Just make sure you select :

Available Options: M2 Reflector Ream Hole:

OSRAM 64623 = 0.425


The cam system does not work with the softstart. The Socket on that unit is hard mounted and you adjust your focus by setting the high of the socket with the provided hardware he will give you. Any fine tuning is done by just twisting the head.

No boring required, you just need to fashion a spacer to centre the batteries in the D body. I make them out of paper towel tubes.
Some people go to the hardware store and get a piece of pipe cut.

 

[Benson]

I'm a bit confused as to what this has to do with the part you quoted.
I don't ever recall suggesting he add a 5th LiMn ? I suggested adding a 6th LiFe cell. Which I admit IS an untested idea.

I didn't see where you suggested that, but unless you use very saggy cells, that's a guaranteed :poof:, too. I was respondng to your assertion that 4 IMRs would be more voltage than 5 IFRs, and the comment on 5 IMRs just slipped in.

I've tested 4xIMR26500 tho. No Poof. If he uses a softstart, No Load voltage is not an issue.

True, but you stated no-load voltage of 4 IMRs in support of your "higher voltage" claim, and since I'm posting from my handheld, I didn't bother to look up the safe chemistry shootout thread to get the actual voltage of a fresh cell under load. I was going to look the numbers up and make a more quantitatively sound post when I got home, but since Aficionado already decided to go with your (very good) suggestion, it's no longer relevant.

 

[Flashlight Aficionado]

Reflector Ream Hole: OSRAM 64623 = 0.425

The cam system does not work with the softstart. The Socket on that unit is hard mounted and you adjust your focus by setting the high of the socket with the provided hardware he will give you. Any fine tuning is done by just twisting the head.

No boring required, you just need to fashion a spacer to centre the batteries in the D body.

Thanks, I didn't know the cammed wouldn't work. I'll make sure I have them cut it to 0.422 (0.425).

I realized I forgot one simple thing. The lense. I looked it up and I should buy the Borofloat 52.1mm lense.

 

[Conte]

I looked it up and I should buy the Borofloat 52.1mm lense.

Yup.:thumbsup:
http://www.flashlightlens.com/str/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=boro_lens