M3/L6 w/ 17500 problems

Solscud007

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 16, 2008
Messages
2,067
Location
Brentwood, CA Not LA
I just got my first pair of 17500 AW cells from light hound. I got them to fire up my L6 porcupine. At first nothing happened. I stretched the center spring and it sort of works.

But here is the problem. Im having issues with the tail cap. The SW02 doesnt want to work with the 17500. But my Z48, shrouded clicky, works. I tried my SW01, std Z41, and my Z58 clicky and still nothing.

I tried swapping heads and bodies with my normal M3 body, std KL6, std M3 head and same results. Only the Z48 will fire up my M3/L6 PK w/ KL6 on 17500. am I missing something it is driving me crazy!!!!
 
Try a spacer between the cells. Start with 1/8" thick, and increase thickness if needed.

I like rare earth magnets for spacers. I edge them with the appropriate sized hose material, to isolate them from contacting the inside of the battery tube. Electrician's tape also works. The magnets are so strong, they rarely move in use, but it pays to be safe.
 
I tried using a metal nut but nothing happened. I will get the magnets from Radioshack and see if that solves the problem. What i dont understand is why this configuration works with only one tailcap, a clicky of all things, but it doesnt work with other clickies or LOTC.
 
Strange contact issues, I run into them from time to time when running various configurations, sometimes the source is the last that you would expect. Sorry can't make any specific recommendations other than using a DMM and testing for voltage and contact in various places with the flashlight in various stages of assembly to try to isolate where the problem is actually cropping up.
 
I had the same issue when I started building my M3, M3T, and M4 using rechargeables and the Z58. Couldn't get it to work. I kept thinking that the spring was too short and I tried spacers but it still didn't work.

I then started thinking that perhaps the springs were too long since it felt like the batteries seemed like they were being compressed way too hard after screwing on the tailcap.

I yanked the spring out of the Z58 and now it works. I've done the same thing with three different Z58s on an M3, M4, and recently I did the same on my 1x18650 LeefBody/Malkoff combo. I have the Z48 on my M3T and it works fine as is.

I was VERY hesitant at first to try this, since it would have been about a $50 mistake, but it has worked everytime!

I believe this only applies to the newer style clickies from SF! Here is a pic of the tailcap w/ the spring removed (sorry about the poor quality, had to take it on my phone):

attachment.jpg
 
Oh, and one more thing worth mentioning:

I had to trim down the spring on the Lumens Factory HO-M3 to get it to work on the M3. No spring adjustments have been necessary on the turbo head configurations.

I really hope this helps. I know how dissapointed I was after buying all this cool stuff to make my CR123-hungry lights rechargeable, and then having it not work.
 
I had similar problems with my L6/M3 body. Cells were too long, over compressing the tailcap spring. I used a spacer made from a washer that I placed inside the tailcap for contact with the top of the body, so that the tailcap does not screw so far down. Looks ok and functions well. My RPM tailcap is much deeper and I do not need a spacer and there is even less pressure on the cells.

Bill
 
thanks guys yeah i did notice the issue with the batteries feeling a little compressed. I will play around with it. I dont know if i want to yank the spring out of my tailcaps. since it does seem to work, but with only one tailcap. Maybe im just being too picky?
 
Don't yank the spring out. Try a washer and slip it over the pedistal in the tailcap so it rests on the flat contact area of the switch that when screwed down makes contact with the lip of the battery body. You will have to fool around and shape/file the metal washer to fit. Might need two washers, but it will reduce the pressure from the batteries on the tailcap spring.

Bill
 
Top