MAG 1D (what would you do?)

[737mech]

I have a MAG 1D host and am stumped on the driver and cell configuration I want to use. I will tell you what I have on hand so that maybe I could get some suggestions.

1. MAG 1D host
2. H22A heat sink
3. DSWOI P7 led
4. HipCC driver
5. D2flex driver
6. AMC7135 1400 mA drivers
7. 16-Mode 3W 3.7V 7135 3.7V 1000mA Output drivers from kai
8. AW IMR C cells 3.7V 2300mAh
9. AW IMR 18650 cells 3.7V 1600mAh

I have PVC on hand to make a sleeve for whatever cells I use plus a UCL glass window and a couple different reflectors to experiment with. All suggestions appreciated!

 

[Justin Case]

The nominal dimensions of a D cell are 33mm diam and 60mm length. Thus, it looks like the 18650 could work fairly easily if you reduce the tail spring height a little and use a sleeve to take up the diameter slack.

I would use one of the 1400mA AMC regulator boards and stick with a simple single-mode mod. For a 1400mA setup, you'll have 350mA per core and I would estimate at least 400 emitter lumens. Heat generation should be easily manageable.

The stock Mag reflector does a surprisingly reasonable job in giving a good beam pattern once you focus the beam to its optimum. Textured reflectors can certainly smooth out any beam anomalies, but at the expense of throw.

 

[ergotelis]

Are you planning to buy something more?
By the time you have a P7, get a Mag 2C(and a heatsink maybe) and use the taskeled driver to power it with the AW cells.
If you think to underpower a P7, i would suggest not to do it,it is a pity to underdrive it and the beam profile would be that nice. Buy a cheap XP-E,put it on the heatsink of h22a,the 18650, a smooth V3.1 kd reflector, the 16mode board, you will get 40000 lux at 1m and a hotspot bigger than all of the throwers. These are the results on my tests.Beam is very smooth, almost no artifacts. I tried a P7 too at 1amp and couldn't get such a nice result.

 

[Justin Case]

I've run a P7 in a 4C Mag at 250mA per core and the beam pattern is just fine.

The benefits of underdriving a P7 are many. Very low heat generation, very long run time, greater driver selection (there are few that can run at 2.8A), less stress on batteries and LED, more flexible battery options (e.g., in my 4C Mag mod, you can use alkalines and still get full, regulated output), and still 300 lumens or more emitter output.

I completely agree that if you go with a single-die LED instead of the multi-die P7, you will get an even better beam with hotter hot spot. But I was under the impression the query was what to do with the parts on-hand that were listed. If I can start to buy a different host, different LED, etc, I may as well build a completely different light.

 

[ergotelis]

I was talking about a MAG 2C maglite because it very cheap , i think it is worth buying one to drive a P7 at full specs.
And a XP-E is very cheap, about 10 usd dollars.
What you will get is a wonderfull throwy single die mag and a powerfull compact too(2C factor) mag.
At last, by this option you will use most of the listed parts. It is pity to have them in a drawer when with some $$ more you can make 2 nice flashlights.
Of course it is his choice if he wants to spend extra money, but by the time he is having bought such parts i don't think that this will be his problem.

 

[Justin Case]

I've mod'ed a 2C Mag as well. Used an SSC P4 because I didn't have a P7, but all the same benefits still apply.

4C Mags are the same price as 2C Mags. Sure, the 4C is going to be longer, but the 2C isn't really a pocket light either. It's basically the same size as my SureFire 12ZM.

In a 2C, I would use the hipCC buck driver and two IMR26500 cells. Optionally, also use the d2Flex if you want multimode. I suppose you could use the d2Flex to use the light in an underdriven mode if so desired, or go full-bore.

 

[tx101]

The new IMR 26500 cells do not fit a Mag C
You need to have it bored out :(

With the parts on hand, I would just build a direct drive P7 with dimming
by the D2Flex.
You can then make sleeves for both the 18650 and 26500 cells

 

[737mech]

Thanks for all the replies. I was wanting to use the supplies I already have. I was thinking of doing a DD with D2Flex but I thought I would be overpowering the P7 with my 18650 since it is a DSWOI bin with a Forward Voltage of 3.25-3.5. I want this Mag1D to be as efficient and bright as possible with a run time of at least 2 hours as this will be my primary work light. If I need to order something I will but figured I have what is needed to achieve a very bright P7 Mag 1D. Or am I wrong?

 

[rizky_p]

the easiest is to build a direct drive P7 maglite with 18650 lithium or add d2flex for PWM dimming.

 

[Justin Case]

Thanks for all the replies. I was wanting to use the supplies I already have. I was thinking of doing a DD with D2Flex but I thought I would be overpowering the P7 with my 18650 since it is a DSWOI bin with a Forward Voltage of 3.25-3.5. I want this Mag1D to be as efficient and bright as possible with a run time of at least 2 hours as this will be my primary work light. If I need to order something I will but figured I have what is needed to achieve a very bright P7 Mag 1D. Or am I wrong?

Direct drive is easy to do, but I personally am wary of using I voltage bin P7s for that purpose, especially in combination with a Li-ion cell. You probably could use the d2Flex as well, which could also extend your run time to your 2 hr target, but I think you should consider using a dropping resistor to protect the d2Flex from overcurrents.

If it were me, I would get a 2C Mag, as suggested by someone else, sand the interior of the light until the IMRs fit (or possibly see you can remove any stickers or labels to give you enough space or send it some someone for boring), and use the hipCC. Re: IMR C cell fit, there is a long thread on the subject in the "Flashlight Electronics - Batteries Included" forum. Or, get a 2D Mag and make a sleeve for whichever cells you want to use.

If you want 2 hr run time, then you need to draw about 1.15A or less at the tail if you use the IMRs (0.8A or less for the 18650s).

To do that, let's assume 90% efficiency for the hipCC, Vf~3.3V, and Vbatt~7.6V. Then

0.9 * 7.6V * 1.15A = 3.3V * If, and If~2.38A.

Thus, you want to configure the hipCC to output around 2.3A-2.4A. The current sense resistor equation for the hipCC is Iout=0.2/Rsense. For Iout=2.35A, Rsense=0.085 ohms.

For the 18650s, you get If~1.7A and Rsense=0.118 ohms.

You can plug and chug your own assumed numbers, if you think that any of the above assumptions are off. If you want to be conservative, assume a higher Vf, such as 3.4V, and-or a lower driver efficiency, such as 85%. That will reduce your target If for 2 hr run time, and thus change the sense resistance that you need for the hipCC.

 

[737mech]

Thanks for all the number crunching there Justin Case! I do have a bored out 2C I could convert for use with the DSWOI bin P7 I have just need to get a heatsink. Sounds like for my 1D though the best thing is to get a J bin emitter and DD with the D2 Flex. This will probably (yea right) be my only MAG 1D so I want to make sure I do it right and best the first time so ordering parts and waiting for them is no biggie.

So let me ask this...What has proven to be a very good setup (cells, driver, emitter) with a MAG 1D host?

 

[Justin Case]

Thanks for all the number crunching there Justin Case! I do have a bored out 2C I could convert for use with the DSWOI bin P7 I have just need to get a heatsink. Sounds like for my 1D though the best thing is to get a J bin emitter and DD with the D2 Flex. This will probably (yea right) be my only MAG 1D so I want to make sure I do it right and best the first time so ordering parts and waiting for them is no biggie.

So let me ask this...What has proven to be a very good setup (cells, driver, emitter) with a MAG 1D host?

Advice on DDing the 1D Mag? Just wire it up DD, use a DxxxJ-bin P7, and drive it with whatever cell you like and make a sleeve and whatever battery spacer or length adjustment is needed. Use your d2Flex if you want multimodes. I think I'd try the 18650 first. My perception is that it has a lower probability of smoking the LED than the IMR C cell does. If I used the IMR, I'd probably install a drop resistor. Or I might use two 4xAMC7135 boards in parallel to run the P7 at 2.8A nominal. You could also use this AMC sandwich for the 18650. But if I used the AMC boards, I would use a DxxxI-bin P7.

I DDed the classic -- a 3D Mag. Used a DxxxJ-bin P7, 4sevens DMag P7 heat sink (any brand of DMag P7 should do), single mode so no d2Flex. I have a lot of AA Eneloops, so that is my power source -- 3xAA Eneloops using some Tenergy D shell adapters (one AA cell per adapter). Ideally, I would prefer low self-discharge Accupower D NiMH cells. But I am reluctant to spend more money on more NiMH cells. I probably will at some point, but not right now since the Eneloops work well enough for my needs. For the hookup, I used 22 gauge, stranded, Teflon-jacketed wire. Hardwired the Mag switch in the usual way, ran the wires through the heat sink, and soldered them to the LED. Since there was no driver, I didn't bother to cut off the Mag switch tower. If the heat sink doesn't have a driver cavity recess, you may have to trim the tower. I don't know for sure, though, since the 4sevens heat sink does have a driver cavity and tower clearance was not an issue.

Does your H22A heat sink have a driver cavity? Some photos on CPF seem to show a solid bottom. As long as you have clearance between the bottom of the heat sink and the Mag switch tower, you don't have to cut off the tower for DD. If you use any sort of board (e.g. d2Flex), however, you might have to cut off the tower.

What is the recommendation from TaskLED on thermal management for the d2Flex when driving it at 2.8A or so? I don't like dealing with thermal management, so I try to avoid it whenever possible. Thus, I used straight DD without any PWM DD board.

 

[737mech]

My H22A heatsink does not have a cavity on the bottom it is flat.

I wired up a DSXOJ P7 direct drive using the D2Flex and one D Lion cell. I did not like the D2flex. It worked fine but I have decided I just like the simple on and off function and have no need for all the different levels. So I will take the board out and put a regular switch back in and have it as a DD light.

For my DSWOI P7's i am going to use the same set up with 2 4xAMC7135 boards. Can you suggest how to wire these? I cant find how anywhere... Thanks for all your help!

 

[Nos]

Mount a SST90 on a DHS heatsink, and then direct drive it with a IMR 18650 oder C cell lovecpf


btw, ill do the same :devil:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=224644

 

[wildstar87]

There is always a 3AA/1D adapter as well, or if bored out, 4AA/1D.. You aren't limited to Li-Ion.

 

[737mech]

Got my Mag 1D done finally!

Silver Mag 1D
Britelumens "deluxed" heatsink
DSXOJ P7 running direct drive
FiveMega MOP aluminum refector
UCL glass window
22 ga teflon wire
1 Kai Domain D LiION cell

Works like a champ and exactly what I was after. Here are some voltages after running it for 90 minutes.
4.17 v @ 0 minutes
3.80 v @ 30 minutes
3.67 v @ 60 minutes
3.40 v @ 90 minutes

Gets pretty warm but not to hot to handle. I won't be running it for longer than 10-15 minutes at a time so it will not be a problem. After all the fancy mods I have experimented with I find it funny that the easiest and most basic mod is the one I like the best and will probably actually use the most!