Mag c switch...

[Tim Carleton]

is there a mod to this thing or even a replacement switch that doesn't
'double contact' that causes a multimode driver to advance to another mode while turning on.... it's annoying to have to cycle through the modes and be one mode in front of where you want to be when you switch the thing on.

Thanks in advance and I'm not trying to describe the momentary mod.

 

[darkzero]

I avoid multimode mods with MagCs (except with TaskLED drivers) because of this reason. Never tried it myself but here's a "fix".

 

[Tim Carleton]

Thank you Will, I performed several searches, but missed that thread. :thinking:

Chit chat mode on, since you're a big machinery fan, I scored on Craigslist last week: http://s457.photobucket.com/albums/qq296/Wraytex/?action=view&current=bridgeport.jpg

Now just for some $$$ for a decent vise and tooling. Thanks again, Tim. :wave:

 

[Winx]

That fix seems to work.

I also put some DeoxIT Gold to contact plate and I'm going to take a chance and put Shark Buck 3A with Remora to my 2C. I still need to find a way for easy switch removal if something goes wrong later. oo:

 

[Al Combs]

I'm guessing with a 3A Shark Buck, you have either a P7 or an MC-E? You could try something like this Deans Micro connector, or an equivalent. It's very popular with the RC car and plane people. That way after you loosen the switch body with a 5/64th" or 2mm Allen wrench, you can unplug the switch from the hole in the side and let it fall out the rear. Without having to touch the goop all over the LED heat sink.

That fix seems to work.

I also put some DeoxIT Gold to contact plate and I'm going to take a chance and put Shark Buck 3A with Remora to my 2C. I still need to find a way for easy switch removal if something goes wrong later. oo:

 

[Al Combs]

Hi Will:

I was thinking of doing your Mag2C-4/5 SubC-P7 mod and adding a D2Flex. Does that mean the D2Flex won't have the double click problem with an unmodified switch? I mean I know about the other switch mod for constant power to the board. TIA.

I avoid multimode mods with MagCs (except with RaskLED drivers) because of this reason. Never tried it myself but here's a "fix".

 

[Winx]

I'm guessing with a 3A Shark Buck, you have either a P7 or an MC-E? You could try something like this Deans Micro connector, or an equivalent. It's very popular with the RC car and plane people. That way after you loosen the switch body with a 5/64th" or 2mm Allen wrench, you can unplug the switch from the hole in the side and let it fall out the rear. Without having to touch the goop all over the LED heat sink.

Thanks! Very good advice.

I have several pairs of JST connectors which are too big in my opinion. I don't want to use them.

Yes, P7 in this case...

 

[Al Combs]

Hey as long as it fits, it's not too big. The first place I heard of the idea was NetKidz in his AMC7135 sandwich mod. They were poking fun at him for the level of overkill using a Deans Ultra.

Thanks! Very good advice.

I have several pairs of JST connectors which are too big in my opinion. I don't want to use them.

 

[Winx]

Yeah I remember those connectors . I used JST plugs with original wire in my 3D mod when I added 8xAMC7135 driver. I bought red and black 22 AWG teflon wire from Johnswireshop.com so those micro connectors are better. Easier to solder straight to golden pins than open those little JST plugs.

 

[darkzero]

Hi Will:

I was thinking of doing your Mag2C-4/5 SubC-P7 mod and adding a D2Flex. Does that mean the D2Flex won't have the double click problem with an unmodified switch? I mean I know about the other switch mod for constant power to the board. TIA.

Yes you are correct. Won't have that issue. :wave:

 

[Al Combs]

Thanks Will

 

[darkzero]

Thanks Will

No problem Al, anytime. Happy modding!