Mag ROP, Help!

[ElectronGuru]

His new IMR ones should be available in a few days.

+1

Half the difficulty with most hotwires seems to be with the batteries. You have to buy 6+ cells and an adaptor or fit special tubes inside or cut the spring or add extender rings or buy a longer model and cut it down.

Having just built an IMR powered 9P with an 1185 bulb, I'm a huge new fan of AW RED! Get a Mac 2C, add a pair of IMR26500 (C) cells, and just a few changes to the head: bulb/reflector/glass. Just add a charger. No cutting, no regulation, no double clicking.

 

[ampdude]

"Having just built an IMR powered 9P with an 1185 bulb,"

Are you using three of the 16340's and a FiveMega socket?

That's sounds badass, I never even thought of that before.. :devil:

 

[ElectronGuru]

Are you using three of the 16340's and a FiveMega socket?

That's sounds badass, I never even thought of that before.. :devil:

Yes and YES. I don't want to distract from this thread, so I've posted some early pics here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2910695

 

[rockz4532]

Ok, sorry, I haven't been catching up with my project too well.
So far, I've changed my plan to use 2x 17670 or 18650's.
I have built my li-ion adapter for 2D, and it fits almost perfectly. The Mag does not have a spring anymore, so I will have to compensate for the ~2 inch gap.
I will post pictures later today.

I am ordering the cells today or tomorrow, but lighthound is out of aw protected 18650's, so would the 17670's work well for the Hi bulb? Could I use the IMR 18650s? I see they are capable of tremendous current, and with no protection, so I do not want to :poof: my cells if a short happens in the testing.

Thanks for all replys!

 

[ElectronGuru]

Get a Mac 2C, add a pair of IMR26500 (C) cells, and just a few changes to the head: bulb/reflector/glass. Just add a charger. No cutting, no regulation, no double clicking.

I need to update here. The 26500's have very little voltage sag and a now proven tendency to blow bulbs that have been relying on the kindness of sag from lesser cells (including smaller IMRs). The IMR26500 will blow the standard 6 volt (3854) ROP high. I have learned of a special 7.2 volt (3853) ROP high bulb and have one on order to try.

-EG

 

[exodus125]

I would get the adapter from mdocod, thats the one thing you dont want to cheap out on.

You can get everything else from Kaidomain for cheap, But id recommend getting the pelican bulbs from lighthound.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I need to update here. The 26500's have very little voltage sag and a now proven tendency to blow bulbs that have been relying on the kindness of sag from lesser cells (including smaller IMRs). The IMR26500 will blow the standard 6 volt (3854) ROP high. I have learned of a special 7.2 volt (3853) ROP high bulb and have one on order to try.

-EG

Even with the AW Softstarter??

 

[ElectronGuru]

Unfortunately, I don't have one of those. My testing also does not include any resistance fixes, so normal switch, normal body, and normal spring. Regulation, however, is looking increasingly attractive!

 

[KiwiMark]

Even with the AW Softstarter??

I have blown a ROP high from 2 protected D-Cells (around 4 - 5 Ah) - I have 2 AW soft-start switches, but they are bi-pin and the ROP bulbs are potted. I had no resistance fixes, just standard stuff. I would expect the voltage drop with IMR 26500 cells would be no worse than with protected D cells, probably less drop with no protection circuit to add resistance.

 

[rockz4532]

Well, so far my low and high are working fine on 2x17670's, but I wont be using the high since it draws over 2C.

 

[Chrontius]

Never had my Kai lithium Ds flash a bulb, and those have to be capable of some current. Or they were, before the protection circuit went bad.

 

[KiwiMark]

Never had my Kai lithium Ds flash a bulb, and those have to be capable of some current. Or they were, before the protection circuit went bad.

Maybe I just got unlucky? My protected D Li-ions are from KD.

 

[ElectronGuru]

The IMR26500 will blow the standard 6 volt (3854) ROP high. I have learned of a special 7.2 volt (3853) ROP high bulb and have one on order to try.

Another update:
2x freshly charged IMR26500's will NOT blow the special 7.2 volt (3853) ROP high :grin2:

 

[lctorana]

Another update:
2x freshly charged IMR26500's will NOT blow the special 7.2 volt (3853) ROP high :grin2:

Never in doubt.

Now, do you have a "standard" (e.g. 6AA) RoP to compare it to? Just wondering about brightness & colour temperature.

 

[ANDREAS FERRARI]

Never in doubt.

Now, do you have a "standard" (e.g. 6AA) RoP to compare it to? Just wondering about brightness & colour temperature.

+1 :thumbsup:I would like to see how these bulbs(3853) handle being overdriven-say 8-8.5v.Would there be a significant improvment from the regular ROP-High?

 

[mdocod]

Sorry I didn't catch this sooner RockZ,

17670s should not be used for powering up an ROP high. That's ~3C discharge rate and will wear them out quickly, with an increased likelihood of internal shorts developing which could lead to fire/explosion during charging.

 

[ElectronGuru]

I'm working on a photographic technique to show color temperature. When ready, I'll add profiles for all my bulbs (and a few LEDs) to my incan guide.​

Sweet :)

Now, do you have a "standard" (e.g. 6AA) RoP to compare it to? Just wondering about brightness & colour temperature.

+1 :thumbsup:I would like to see how these bulbs(3853) handle being overdriven-say 8-8.5v.Would there be a significant improvment from the regular ROP-High?

Here's a rough attempt at showing the color differences between bulbs. The Malkoff is running off 2 black label AW C's. All 4 ROPs are on the same pair of IMR26500's, sitting in a Mac 2C. The lights were a foot away, pointed directly at the lens. I ran down the cells a bit before running the H bulbs so the 6.0 volt H would not poof. Voltage values shown are spec, not actual.

Light is blurred on the way into the camera, so each square is the actual complete photo recorded by the camera. Images were recorded straight into JPG with sRGB color space. All are taken with the settings fixed on F11 (aperture) and 5000K (a theoretical color temp of white). Shutter speed was light metered so every sample would have the same brightness, leaving color as the remaining variable:

I'm still working on the color averaging, but this at least gives you an idea. I think next time, I will set the camera to achieve lighter results, these seem overly dark/exaggerated.

BTW Andreas, the 3853 bulb is technically less overdriven, but combined with the 26500's its one heck of a beautiful combination. Unfortunately, while I have all the bulbs, I don't have a standard host/cell setup to drive (or know that I'm driving) the 3854 bulb normally.

 

[greenLED]

...all I see are 6 boxes of different colors, with bulb names and voltages
:confused:

 

[ElectronGuru]

Sorry G,

I got so caught up in the technique, I forgot to give context. This is radically new, so it will take a bit of explaining. What you are seeing (correctly) are 5 photographs. Not of bulbs or beamshots or even bounceshots. These are photos of the actual color of the actual light being projected.

Have a look at this spectrum:

This is the spectrum of color, between red and blue that we see by. Not the color of objects but the color of the light that illuminates objects. Look at a red chair outside at noon, then put the same chair inside with a 100watt bulb. It will look more red. The closer to "white" a given light source, the easier it is to see the true colors in the space we are viewing.

LEDs tend to be blue. The older/cheaper an LED is, the bluer it tends to be. The holy grail of LEDs is to be as white as possible. Incans tend to be red/yellow. The lower the power, the yellower they tend to be. The holy grail of incans is to be as white as possible. Looking at the complete spectrum above, there is but one point in the middle, one white that both technologies are trying to reach - true white.

While there is little agreement on the exact K of white, setting my camera to 5000k is pretty close. In absolute terms, each square in post 37 shows how far off white (5000k) a given bulb is. In relative terms, each square shows how far away the color of every bulb is from from the color of every other bulb. In this case, you can see how yellow a given bulb is (at the voltage in my light when I took the picture). You can see how blue my example LED is and see how much more blue it is relative to the entire ROP family.

Have a look at the CCT column on the Welch Allyn bulb site:
http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/searchbylamp.tpl?SKU=17345948104771&cart=12413984541267753​

CCT (Correlated Color Temperature) is a specific measurement form of Kelvin, in this case, the color temperature of a specific bulb at the standard voltage. See how most of the CCT values are in the 2500-3500 range? Notice how this correlates to the yellow section of the spectrum above. Driven at their spec voltage, this is the color each bulb will put out. But as we know, overdrive the bulb and it will become more white, closer to - but still far from - 5000.

My hope is to develop this technique to the point that we can map the colors of popular emitters (LED and incan) in popular configurations. Imagine, being able compare the colors of two popular bulb choices (at your preferred voltage) or to see how much less blue a given 'warm LED' actually is.

Does that help?

 

[greenLED]

Does that help?

:rock: :rock:

Looking forward to more of your color comparisons. Very interesting concept.