Measuring Amps drawn.

blackwaterstout

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I hear a lot of mention about certain flashlights drawing .5A or .750A, etc. I'd like to know how to measure that with a standard voltmeter. I have digital voltmeter that measures voltage/amps/ohms, etc.

I'm no electrician so can someone explainn the proceedure? Thanks
 
The simplest explanation of how to do it is that you want to replace one of the "wires" with your meter. This way the current flows through the meter on it's way between the power source and the load.

You have to make sure the meter leads are plugged in to the correct jack. Usually, there is a common or ground jack used for all measurements. Then you will usually have at least two positive lead jacks. One will normally be for volts and ohms, and the other will be for current. Sometimes there may be an extra jack for very high voltage. But more commonly, you will find extra jacks for different current ranges. Since the meter acts like a short when in use, it will usually be protected by a fuse to prevent damaging the circuit or harming the user if there is too much current. You need to make sure the current you want to measure, the range selected on the meter, and the jack used for the positive lead, all are matched correctly. If you are unsure of the current, start at the highest range and work your way down if needed.

CAUTION: Make sure you do not try to measure voltage while the meter leads are in the current jacks. When measuring current, the meter has very low resistance. So if you put just the meter across even fairly low voltages, it will let too much current flow and blow the fuse. And yes, sooner or later we all get distracted and do it. Buy spare fuses for your meter.

You don't actually need to replace a wire, you just need a "break" in the electrical path where you can insert your meter. For example, if you are just trying to measure how much current is being drawn from the battery of a flashlight, the simple way is to remove the tailcap. Most lights make the negative connection to the battery via the tailcap. So you just remove the tailcap, turn the switch on, then put your leads on the back of the battery and the light body. The meter is now completing the electrical circuit instead of the tailcap, and the meter will display the current flowing.

Measuring the current flowing to an LED when using a driver circuit can be more difficult. First, you'll usually have to desolder a connection in order to be able to insert your meter in the path to the LED. Also, this can cause additional problems since there are some drivers that can be damaged if you apply power while LED is not connected. In that case, make sure you have the meter fully in the circuit before you apply power.
 
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THnaks for the instructions. I will follow them to a T. How mcuh variation will you normally see between the current on the tail cap versus the current being pulled my the LED?
 
CAUTION: Make sure you do not try to measure voltage while the meter leads are in the current jacks. When measuring current, the meter has very low resistance. So if you put just the meter across even fairly low voltages, it will let too much current flow and blow the fuse. And yes, sooner or later we all get distracted and do it. Buy spare fuses for your meter.
To that caution I'll add that if you have a separate 10A socket on the meter and you've been measuring high currents with it make sure you unplug the lead from that socket as soon as you've finished using it. My two (cheap) meters are still trying to measure current if the lead is plugged into that socket no matter what setting I have the meters switched to. Thus I blew a Cree while trying to measure the voltage drop (from 12V) across the driver upstream of it. I was basically shorting out the driver with a very low resistance ammeter. 12V + Cree = :poof:

So you just remove the tailcap, turn the switch on, then put your leads on the back of the battery and the light body.
I had to think about that one. I do it a fair bit, but on a torch with a tail clickie. "Now why would he turn the switch on after taking the tail cap off?" :thinking: :ohgeez:
 
LOL, that's if you have a Maglite, or a Hall switch or a head-twisty switch. I haven't yet heard of a remote tail-clicky that works even if you've taken it off the light, but then I've been away for 2 whole days so maybe I've missed something, lol.
 
Also try to have an idea of the amp draw that is likely with the bulb. My Fluke DMM has 400mA and 10A current ports. Choosing the 400mA port for a 5A bulb test will blow that fuse. Likewise, I blew a 10A fuse in another brand by testing a 90W bulb that had a higher initial spike current.
 
Lux, ever had to use more than one meter to measure current, like two 10A meters for really high currents?
 
I use a Fluke 73III and noticed it had dropped the voltage to the load = internal impedance? Had to beef up the supply to compensate for the loss [needs another meter to measure voltage after the Fluke].

Has anyone noticed this?
 
Lux, ever had to use more than one meter to measure current, like two 10A meters for really high currents?

If you need to measure higher currents, you should use a shunt. They still require being installed in series with the load, but they are very accurate when calibrated properly. I've used a makeshift shunt in certain situations, simply "calibrating" my voltmeter to a length of wire that was already part of the circuit. They work on the concept of "voltage drop", whenever electricity flows through a resistor (anything really), there is always a difference between each side of the resistor that will change with the amount of current flowing through the resistor. By measuring the difference, you can figure out the current.

Shunts are usually designed to have either 1mV/A drop, or something like 50mV over their rated capacity.

I have a tool called a current clamp, it's basically a multimeter with a clamp on one end, you clamp that end around a conductor, and it picks up the current flowing through that conductor and displays it.
 
....
DonShock said:
So you just remove the tailcap, turn the switch on, then put your leads on the back of the battery and the light body.
I had to think about that one. I do it a fair bit, but on a torch with a tail clickie. "Now why would he turn the switch on after taking the tail cap off?" :thinking: :ohgeez:
But the current measurement would still work correctly if you did.:touche:
 
In LuxLuthor's example, for instance, the "B series" shunt would output 10mV at 50A, 20mV at 100A, and 100mV at 500A. The "A series" would output 50mV at 50A, and 100mV at 100A. Hope this helps.

If you want to use it with a standard millivolt-meter, you won't have to do any calculating with the "B series" shunt. If you want to use the "A series" I'd recommend coupling it with a meter that has a matching scale (500A) and a full-scale deflection of 100mV. Most newer panel meters that I've seen are 50mV though.

I forgot, you said "I'm no electrician"...hopefully you can make some sense of this.

Now...if you want to measure the current between a driver and an LED without desoldering stuff....uh....I''ll think of something...yeah...:thinking:
 
I use a Fluke 73III and noticed it had dropped the voltage to the load = internal impedance? Had to beef up the supply to compensate for the loss [needs another meter to measure voltage after the Fluke].

Has anyone noticed this?
I figured it was mostly the resistance in my multimeter leads. I had one USB supply which was putting out a good current and still in regulation with a multimeter in series measuring the current but when I removed the meter it dropped out of regulation and the load was doing more work.
 
I'm trying to learn how to measure this stuff for a mini review I want to do on a C-8 that I ordered from DX. As far as I can tell I can't find any reviews of the light so I'd like to do my own.

How do you guys comeplete your run-time tests. How are you measuring time to 50%? Do you have some expensive equipment that analyses all of that stuff. Or can you just measure time till off by turning the light on and setting a timer until the lgiht comepletly turns off? Whats the methodology?
 
Thanks, hadn't considered that.

I figured it was mostly the resistance in my multimeter leads. I had one USB supply which was putting out a good current and still in regulation with a multimeter in series measuring the current but when I removed the meter it dropped out of regulation and the load was doing more work.
 

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