MicroPucks and Lithium 123

[Peter Atwood]

I apologize in advance for the total newbie questions but here goes....

I ordered three MicroPucks with Luxeon Stars from LED Supply yesterday. Once I have them in hand and can get accurate specs my buddy is going to machine bodies to drop them into. My question is, using aluminum for the casing, how do we hook these things up to make a circuit with a 123 lithium battery? Is there a way NOT to do it that will result in the thing being backwards so that we blow the LED?

Looking at my Arc LS I see that there is a drop of solder connecting the board to the casing. I assume that the negative end of the battery needs to contact the base of the casing then the positive contacts the base of the MicroPuck. Using a piece of foam similar to the Arc to keep contact away until the unit is tightened, is that all there is to it?

Thanks for bearing with me. Any advice would be MUCH appreciated!

 

[B@rt]

Peter, I strongly suggest you team up with somebody with knowledge of electronics...

The way to operate a "puck" would be:
Install LS, ensure good thermal path to casing...
Connect the negative terminal to the casing ( a screw will ensure proper electrical conductance...)
Connect the puck (positive lead to the + terminal of the cell pack, negative to casing, positive output connected to the LS, negative to casing)

This should work....
Since I'm only speculating, please don't keep me up to it...

ps, there is lots of information to be found regarding installation of Luxeons... A Google search on the subject will keep you busy for a while...

 

[ElektroLumens]

The Micropuck is easy to hook up, just follow the directions they give you with the product. Red to positive battery in, black to ground, orange to LED + in, and green to LED - in. Works really great.

If you hook it up incorrectly, the regulator can be damaged.

Let me know your results. I'd like to try this circuit in a Surefire E1e.

Wayne J.
www.elektrolumens.com

 

[Tater Rocket]

I think the micropuck and lithium 123 idea is great...however I would want to see an output current vs time graph before I would do it just to see if it was worth it. I wish I had metal working capabilities, this could be a BRIGHT, small flashlight. Am thinking about a red/orange high dome direct drive off of a 123, IF I can find something to put it in.

Spud

 

[Peter Atwood]

Thanks for the help guys! I will certainly let you all know how it goes..

I'm wondering if anyone could give a guess if this light will be as bright or at least in the neighborhood as the Arc LS. Maybe a similar runtime?

 

[Tater Rocket]

My guess is a lot brighter than the Arc, but not as long of a runtime. Arc runs their LS at something like 250 ma(?), MAYBE 300, I know it is under-driven though. Since this is driven to specs the runtime should be similar.

My single 123 light WOULD be coming along if I had something I could bore out this copper pipe by about .01 or .02" with. Sandpaper and finger....

 

[sunspot]

Eric. A two cell with the puck will have 375ma. A three cell direct might be 700-1000ma. The direct drive will be much brighter and without proper heatsinking, a much shorter life. Also keep in mind that direct drive will start dimming from the get go while regulated will hold a more steady output. I like both ways of powering LS's depending on my needs.
I hope this helps.

 

[ElektroLumens]

Originally posted by Eric Maier:
I need some help here. I've been looking at the different mods trying to decide on my first one. Can someone explain what will be difference in the 2 cell MicroPuck design and a 3 cell direct drive? Will there be a difference in brightness and or LED life?

Thanks,

Eric

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Direct drive is running the Luxeon Star from the 3 batteries with no resistors or voltage regulation. Using 3 D cells, I have measured 1,500mA. This is serious overdriving!

But after about 700mA, it is of no use to go with more current, as it is all wasted as excess heat.

I use resistance to limit the current to about 700mA in my Blaster. You do not see any dimming for at least 12 hours, and you really cannot tell untill up to 24 hours. After that, the light begins to gradually wane, for another 48 hours.

Now, even 12 hours is pretty good, but 24 hours is excellent, and that is why I do not use a regulator in the large D flashlights I mod or build.

The Micropuck is a tiny voltage regulator. It regulates the current to 350 to 375mA. You can use 2 batteries, so you can have a smaller size. Intitial brightness is less. Actually brightness is less all the way around, period. But if you want a smaller size, this is the ticket.

Some of the energy of the batteries is wasted in regulation. The circuit is 70% to 85% efficient. So 15% go 30% of the power is wasted on regulation.

I have to say that I have had my micropuck test flashlight on now, for 16 hours. It is giving useful light, but not as bright as at first. I would say the first 8 hours are very good and bright, the following 4 hours are still good. After that, it seems to just go on and on at a steady amount of light.

Wayne J.

 

[Peter Atwood]

So how many mA will the 123 cell put out?

 

[Rothrandir]

not enough...

only 3v also.

if you want small size, then 123+regulator (madmax, badboy, micropuck) is neccesary, if you are willing to use more batteries (which means less "carryable", you could go with 3aa or aaa. 2x123 will give you six volts and ?ma, which will make the luxeon very unhappy.

i really suggest you check out the mclux to see how they are doing it.

 

[Eric_M]

I need some help here. I've been looking at the different mods trying to decide on my first one. Can someone explain what will be difference in the 2 cell MicroPuck design and a 3 cell direct drive? Will there be a difference in brightness and or LED life?

Thanks,

Eric