MiniMag w/ Auroralite Kit

[Effulgence]

I've got Minimags with the Auroralite kit using AW 14500s and the TL-3 lamp. I like the setup and the power from a MiniMag is fun to show off, but I have some problems:

The ceramic bi-pin piece is really annoying since it doesn't stay put, I was wondering if anyone has a solution to keeping it in place (like the stock plastic sandwich)? I was thinking of some kind of glue, something that would also transfer heat from the ceramic to the body better whilst holding it in place; it shouldn't heat and then drip onto the cells or that would be a big mess. I don't know what kind of glue to start with.

The TL-3 lamp doesn't want to stay put. After my walk in the park, the bulb sometimes pops right out of the bi-pin ceramic piece, how can I keep it secured in place?

AW 14500 cells tend to fit *quite* snugly in the body. It takes a few taps to get 'em out. I checked all my cells, it seems to have a small bulge at one of the sides, causing a size irregularity which seems to be the case. Duracell coppertops and other brands slide right out. Any suggestions?

Is it advisable to use Goldpro on the contacts? How/where should I begin?

What is a good clicky that's low profile that can work with this set up?

How long has everyone been using the H1499 lamps with this setup? Is it reliable? I've heard that this lamp is overdrawing for the specs of the 14500 cells. I'd want more lumens, but not at the expense of possibly having to treat your light as a grenade.

Can any fellow flashaholics help a guy out? Thanks.

 

[DonShock]

I used to have one of these. I used a Sandwich retaining O-ring to keep the ceramic socket in place. It worked pretty well without interfering with the battery contact. But if it does hold the battery too far from the socket to make contact, you can fix it by adding a dab of solder to the center contact on the ceramic socket. I fixed the bulb problem by bending out one of the pins on the bulb slightly. The TL3 pins are a little too short to reach the area of the contacts that grips the stock bulb pins. Bending the pins out slightly makes them push agains the side of the pin sockets to hold them in place better. It makes them a little more difficult to insert, but the technique I used was to tilt the bulb sideways a little and get one pin started then push sideways as you rock the other pin into it's socket. The small bulge on the side of the batteries is the negative connection for the protection circuit on the cells, don't uncover or remove it.

 

[mdocod]

1499 on 14500s?

I wasn't familiar with the Auroralite kit... but did a search and read about it..

I would suggest running the TL-3 bulb it was intended for. The 1499 is kinda risky.

In short increments, I think even AW would say that the risk of incident is low, especially if you dispose of the cells after a reasonable number cycles. But you won't find me recommending it.

The cells are rated for 1.5A max, a 1499 is close to 1.85A...

I'd estimate run time at about 15 minutes, so danger aside, the runtime is pretty bad anyways, The voltage sag would be so bad after a few minutes, that the TL-3 bulb might actually be brighter after a few minutes anyways by comparison. The TL-3 bulb would run over 30 minutes on the same cells.

 

[Ledean]

The bulge on the side is part of the protectin circuit.
You can use also unprotected cells with Tl3 bulb .

 

[rcnuk]

Would any type of heat transfer paste or epoxy work to keep the ceramic socket in place? I will eventually attempt to run a 1499 in the MM. I plan to use an extension for a 2x 14670 setup inspired by Bimmerboy with a BHC head. My biggest concern is about heat transfer from the socket to the batteries. Is my concern justified? Any recommendations?

 

[Effulgence]

Thermal paste sounds like a good idea. I think Sandwiche Shoppe sells them, but I'm not sure. The question is, how could you apply it without making a mess and will it hold up to the heat of the TL-3 bulb without dripping onto the batteries?

I bent the pins on the TL-3 bulb outward, seems to be a little more secure.

I'm thinking I should have bought Wolf-Eyes 14500 (LRB-AA) instead of the AW cells. No one seems to have both to do a direct comparision though. I guess there's no helping this bulb, except to pick out the best of the pack.

I'll probably keep clear of the H1499s. Those 14670s seem to do the trick, but I'd prefer the stock look (which was probably the point of the hotwire in the firstplace). If it turns into some kinda of hulking monster, I might as well have bought the TL-3 or Surefire 6P or Wolfeyes...

 

[gchand]

To hold the ceramic socket in place on my conversion, I wrapped some teflon
tape (plumbing supply) around the socket, being careful not to cover the top
& bottom electrical contacts - this worked well & keeps the socket securely
in place.

The initial MiniMag that I tried to install the kit in was a vintage 15-20 year old
black unit. My AW protected 14500 cells were a force fit! I purchased a
current vintage MiniMag, and the cells fit fine. Evidently, the newer
MiniMags are bored larger inside.

I am using a H1499 bulb in mine with great results!


George

 

[JetskiMark]

I have had good luck with the Terralux reverse clicky. I have several AuroraLite hotwires and I use the Terralux, H1499 and AW's protected 14500s on all of them with good results. I only use these for short durations though.

Regards,
Mark

 

[rcnuk]

I'll try the Teflon tape method.
Thanks!

 

[rcnuk]

Mark,
Is your light dimmer with the Terralux switch?

I have had good luck with the Terralux reverse clicky. I have several AuroraLite hotwires and I use the Terralux, H1499 and AW's protected 14500s on all of them with good results. I only use these for short durations though.

Regards,
Mark

 

[JetskiMark]

It looks the same to me. I just compared two with the Terralux switch to each other and they looked the same. I then put the stock tail cap on one and compared again and they still look the same.

Regards,
Mark

Mark,
Is your light dimmer with the Terralux switch?

 

[Effulgence]

RCNUK, I think you may be refering to the NiteItz IQ switch.

 

[rcnuk]

I haven't tried either but was told some tail switches add a good bit of resistance causing a dimmer light. I'm looking for a tail switch and I'll give the terralux a try.
Thanks!

BTW: Lighthound is out but batteryjunction has them.

 

[cernobila]

In my case, I have four of these. I use the electrical tape around the circumference of the ceramic bulb holder to make it a better fit as well as centring the unit inside the tube. I use AW 14500 cells, TL-3 bulbs and the "Terralux reverse clicky" switches on all the lights. I prefocus the reflector to spot and again using electrical tape I tape the reflector in place so it does not move. I also had to tighten up the thread with thin plumbers tape so the head would not feel loose when screwed out to "spot" position. I had to drill out the reflector hole slightly so it would not "grab" the bulb if I happen to turn the head for some reason. This system works for me without any problems.......

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Can you use the Strion lamp with the Auroralite kit?

 

[litho123]

I don't believe so. When ordering the kit some time ago, I do remember having to specify which bulb I was going to use with it so that I would get the correct reflector.

IIRC, the Strion bulb runs off of 1 li-ion cell, not 2.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I don't believe so. When ordering the kit some time ago, I do remember having to specify which bulb I was going to use with it so that I would get the correct reflector.

IIRC, the Strion bulb runs off of 1 li-ion cell, not 2.

Yes, you are right. I forgot that the TL-3 was a 9V light...

 

[tekka0417]

Thermal paste sounds like a good idea. I think Sandwiche Shoppe sells them, but I'm not sure. The question is, how could you apply it without making a mess and will it hold up to the heat of the TL-3 bulb without dripping onto the batteries?

This is probably what you're looking for: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_39&products_id=792

I bent the pins on the TL-3 bulb outward, seems to be a little more secure.

I just got my AuroraLite Kit today and did the same thing, seems to work pretty well, haven't had it pop out yet luckily.

I'm thinking I should have bought Wolf-Eyes 14500 (LRB-AA) instead of the AW cells. No one seems to have both to do a direct comparision though.

I've got both! The Wolf-Eyes 14500's seem to have thinner sleeving around them. They slide in and out of my mini mag as well as my L1D-CE MUCH better than AW's. I don't have any calipers so I can't give you any measurements, but the Wolf-Eyes look a hair smaller in diameter.

As a side note, seeing as how I just got my hands on a new toy, I decided to do a little comparison between the AuroraLite Kit w/ a TL-3 and my L1D-CE on 14500. I expected the TL-3 to blow away the L1D-CE, but was quite surprised how well the L1D-CE fared... maybe I'll test throw when it gets dark out.

1/30" f/5.6 ~1 meter
L1D-CE 14500 vs MiniMag AuroraLite TL-3

1/400" f/5.6 ~1 meter
L1D-CE 14500 vs MiniMag AuroraLite TL-3

 

[Effulgence]

That's an interesting comparision with the L1D CE... Better host, better quality, less heat, and cheaper - but less output. The throw will probably go to the MiniMag Auroralite TL-3. Looking at flashlightreviews.com shows bigger numbers.

AW 14500 and WE LRB-AAs around about the same price ($10). I should have just bought all my AA Li-Ions from WE, but it's too late now. I'll probably put the 9 AW 14500 I have into a Mag85.

That thermal adhesive is probably the one I saw. Looks about right. I'll have to try that once I get some more cash... :candle:

 

[bouncer]

win734440,

Welcome tp CPF. the auroralight conversion is out of production the thread that you replied to is 2 and a half years old. If you can find detailed pictures maybe you could get someone to make one for you or make something yourself. Or you could sign up over at cpfmarketplace.com and post a WTB. good luck in your search