MN60 voltage-The experiment starts

Bullzeyebill

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I have searched, and searched for the MN60 spec voltage. I need the exact voltage that will safely drive the MN60 without instaflashing, as I am considering running it with three 18650's. I know that it is well below 12 volts. Please do not just say that it will "instaflash". Do I need to charge 3 LiIon's to 4.0 and no higher? What voltage would be recommended, etc. Thanks,

Bill
 
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Re: MN60 voltage

The HO-M4 is LF's LA for the M4. It should run at the same voltage as the SF LA off of 4XCR123s. They quote 9.2V here. I hope this helps!
 
Re: MN60 voltage

The HO-M4 draws 2.15A, so it's going to have a lower design voltage than a MN60 that draws around 1.5A.

I would call it about a 9.6V-9.8V bulb.

I'd say start with 3.95V per cell and work your way up, you'll probably find that ~4.0XV works but anything above 4.10 is risky.

Keep in mind this is going to depend heavily on which brand of cells and how low your resistance is.

IMO: buy a FM bi-pin MN tower and run a 1185 or other similar bulb.
 
Re: MN60 voltage

Sounds like it is the startup voltage that will kill MN60 with three LiIon's. I need a dimmer switch so I can start it up slow, that or a soft start which is too complicated to set up for M4.

Bill
 
Re: MN60 voltage

I have run an MN60 (and the MN61) on 3 x 17670s charged to 4.1v or so. No instaflash, just searing white light in a really long body.
 
Well, I started playing. First off I charged up three protected 17500's and ran them down to 4 volts each in another light. I used these 4.0 volters with some lego SF parts to make the appropriate sized body adding parts firstly to my KL6 body and ran the MN60 LOLA in the M4 turbohead. My goodness!!! how white and bright and over 400 lumens questimate comparing to other lights, using bounce with light meter. I added some lego's to my 6P and got a 3X17500 body and ran the MN60 LOLA with my KT1 turbohead and it was brighter with a round center beam compared to the oval beam using the M4 turbohead. After awhile the 17500's needed several clicks to turn on, but it is still super bright. I think that I might go with three 18500's at 4.0 volts for safety sake. Amps at tailcap is 1.66 and I do not know for sure what the voltage is being delivered to the lamp, though it is certainly more than 4XCR123's.

Bill
 
The HO-M4 draws 2.15A, so it's going to have a lower design voltage than a MN60 that draws around 1.5A.

I would call it about a 9.6V-9.8V bulb.

I'd say start with 3.95V per cell and work your way up, you'll probably find that ~4.0XV works but anything above 4.10 is risky.

Keep in mind this is going to depend heavily on which brand of cells and how low your resistance is.

IMO: buy a FM bi-pin MN tower and run a 1185 or other similar bulb.

I don't really want to run a high amp bulb in my turboheads. I like the low amperage of the MN60 and how it seems to handle some overdrive well.

Bill
 
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