EngineeringGuy
Newly Enlightened
I just swapped out the luxeon emmiter in my Fenix L2P (with L1P battery tube) for an SSC P4 t-bin (to be upgraded to a U-bin when it arrives after the new year). With the SSC it seems to be brighter, but not dramatically so. The beam patttern is almost identical to the beam with the lux emmitter. The spot seems slightly more diffuse, but not by much. I cannot compare a before and after beamshot because I forgot to take a before (oops). I will post a photo comparison between my L1P-P4 and my 2AA MiniM*g LED sometime in the next week, as that is the only other common light I have that is comparable.
I believe that the driver in the L1P is a constant current power supply at about 300mA or so... (does anyone know for sure) If this is true, and since the SSC has a lower Vf, the power consumption (Watts) would be lower for the new configuration. So, all other things being equal (even if the light output were the same) the batteries should now last longer.
A word of warning for anyone else who attempts this mod... The slug on the SSC P4 is connected to the anode. The brass heatsink in the head of the L1/2P is connected to the (-) side of the battery. In order to make this work I used a VERY THIN (1.5 mil) piece of mylar cut into a donut shape (0.310" OD, 0.25" ID) with thermal grease to "fill the donut." This creates a electrically isolated thermally conductive barrier. Before doing this you must verify that your thermal paste is an insulator.
Good luck and happy modding!!!
I believe that the driver in the L1P is a constant current power supply at about 300mA or so... (does anyone know for sure) If this is true, and since the SSC has a lower Vf, the power consumption (Watts) would be lower for the new configuration. So, all other things being equal (even if the light output were the same) the batteries should now last longer.
A word of warning for anyone else who attempts this mod... The slug on the SSC P4 is connected to the anode. The brass heatsink in the head of the L1/2P is connected to the (-) side of the battery. In order to make this work I used a VERY THIN (1.5 mil) piece of mylar cut into a donut shape (0.310" OD, 0.25" ID) with thermal grease to "fill the donut." This creates a electrically isolated thermally conductive barrier. Before doing this you must verify that your thermal paste is an insulator.
Good luck and happy modding!!!