My first maglite mod: (4) D Cell SSC-P7

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Rezolution

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 3, 2011
Messages
106
This is my first mod so it's nothing fancy and I didn't take the time to grind the reflector down.

Parts:

- 15 year old Maglite
- DX reflector: 13803
- DX SSC-P7: 12721
- (4) D NiMh Batteries from Ebay (supposedly 10,000 mAh)
- 2.8A constant current driver from illuminationsupply.com


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Very nice, does the p7 have a doughnut hole in the middle with that reflector? It might just be my screen but the hotspot looks darker in the middle.
 
Very nice, does the p7 have a doughnut hole in the middle with that reflector? It might just be my screen but the hotspot looks darker in the middle.

Yes it does. It's pretty strange. It has it for the first one or two feet from the flashlight and then it disappears as you move back. It's almost like an Angel's Halo. I wasn't sure if I could fix it by move the P7 back and forth with the pill but I really don't have any play room (because of how i secure it to the copper heat-sync) so I just left it alone.

For $6 I really can't complain. It's my first light and it's more "general use". I may work on a really nice spot light that's completely custom for my next project.

I think the most expensive part of the light was the cost of the batteries LoL.
 
Nicely done. I particularly like the way you adapted the PR flange incan bulb into an adapter allowing you to not modify the light itself.

Ah thanks. The goal from the beginning of this was to keep the original Maglite untouched so I could put it back to the way it was. I'm not sure I ever will since it's 100 times nicer now.

I actually got that bulb for $2 from Radio shack. I drilled out the insides of the bulb and them soldered in two wires and filled it up with 3M hot glue stick material to keep everything from shorting out.

The hardest part of this whole project was getting the original alkaline batteries out of the flashlight. I didn't realize it until I was all finished and went to put the NiMh batteries in it. When I went to take the old alkalines out, the top two were frozen in and I had to use WD-40 and hammer them out via the switch at the top of the light. I'm really surprised I didn't break the switch housing by doing it. One of my socket wrench extensions in my tool box was the perfect size to hammer on it.
 
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Perhaps someone can tell me if this is normal or not...

I purchased a lux meter to see what was happening with the light because it seemed that the longer the light was on, the dimmer it would run (slightly but noticeable). I set it up for a ceiling bounce test and for whatever scale I used, the flashlight puts out "90" when it's first turned on and over the course of about 10 minutes, it will sloooooowly creep down to "62". Once it hits "62", it will remain there until the batteries can't power the driver any more about 3 hours later.

So assuming lux measurement changes at a fixed distance are linear, is it normal for a diode to heat up over a 10 minute period and lose 30% of it's light output? For heat removal I'm relying on fact that the reflector is screwed into the head, and I also have some aluminum foil packed in around the pill area to try and help the head of the light pick up the heat.

The head gets warm, not hot, and the body of the mag only gets warm about to where the switch is. The heat never goes any further below that.

Should I be happy with a 30% decrease in output power when it's running as warm as it will ever get? I'm actually not sure if it's the LED that's causing this or if it's the driver that's causing it...
 
This is an almost exact twin of my first LED mod (way back in '08, a couple months before I joined CPF), and your results are about like mine. IIRC the initial fall-off was about 20-25% for mine. With better heat-sinking, the drop-off will be less, but what you've got is reasonable. You should also notice the light increases a bit just before it drops out of regulation -- less power burned in the linear regulator = less heat = more efficiency.

You're dumping over 13W into the head, it's gonna get warmer than the "usual" 3D P7 builds. Packing foil around the pill area is a bit iffy -- it's so far down that the foil is hard to keep seated well while assembling it (last thing you need is it shifting and shorting out, don't ask how I know ;)), and the pill does conduct heat pretty well through the threads into the reflector. You've got the cylindrical surface near the front of the reflector, you can wrap foil very tightly around that until it's compressed as it goes in the Mag head, and because it's the last thing in, you can be sure it wound up right where you want it. Also reduces the tendency for the dropin to spin and twist up the wires as you screw the bezel+lens on...

Did you solder the P7 down, or use thermal paste? I soldered mine down, and run the batteries backwards (making the light housing negative -- though if there are no dings in the anodize where the reflector touches, that won't matter.) Complicates the driver setup a bit, though -- if I were to build it again, I don't think I'd bother.

Also, about the donut issue at close range -- you'll always see that in reflector lights, even with single-die emitters. The center portion of the reflector directs no light forward, so the outer parts cast the entire beam. At short range, this leaves a ~1" inside/ ~2" outside donut pattern. At longer range, the 1" and 2" dimensions stay the same, but the light spreads with distance both to the outside and the inside (and past). At arbitrarily large ranges, these reflector characteristics become arbitrarily small compared to the beam spread, and you see the "true" pattern. The P7, being a quad-die, would still have a hole (different effect than the close range one, this is a projection of the gap between the dies) in a perfect reflector, but the OP on that reflector smooths it out nicely and gives you a smooth flat beam -- makes me quite happy.
 
I used arctic silver and just tightened the pill down over the LED/star. it came with a plastic spacer for on the top where the leads get soldered onto it. Then it's a friction fit with the arctic silver piled on the bottom of the star.

I just did the bounce test again. I ran it for 3 hours untouched. It started out at 85, ten minutes later it was at 65. It stayed at 65 for 3 hours so I just shut it off and I'm recharging the batteries now.

I'm going to just leave it alone. It's a work light, not a shelf queen, so I'll be happy with 80% output after 10 min. I doubt it's worth my time to try to improve the syncing. It's a cheapy mod ;)
 
I have just purchased the same reflector (13803) and the led (12721), but I can't get the led to fit inside the hole in the reflector. Do they make these reflectors with different openings, or do I have to drill or grind the opening so to match the diameter of the led? Also, this reflector has a rim that's approximately 2mm thicker than the standard one (I have the same flashlight), so I can't screw the front cap completely on. Would it damage the reflector if I grind it down enough to fit inside the housing?

I'm completely new to this :)
 
I have just purchased the same reflector (13803) and the led (12721), but I can't get the led to fit inside the hole in the reflector. Do they make these reflectors with different openings, or do I have to drill or grind the opening so to match the diameter of the led? Also, this reflector has a rim that's approximately 2mm thicker than the standard one (I have the same flashlight), so I can't screw the front cap completely on. Would it damage the reflector if I grind it down enough to fit inside the housing?

I'm completely new to this :)

I have no idea why the LED wont fit in the opening. Maybe they changed something or sent you the wrong part. The easiest thing to do would be to just drill the hole larger.

As far as trimming it down to fit in the Mag head, you have four options...

1. (Least desirable) You cut the edge of the reflector off. That is going to scratch the crap out of everything.

2. (Second least desirable) You cut a bit off the threads of the Maglite where the lens gets mounted. I would never do that, but at least you aren't scratching the reflector.

3. Pay someone with a lathe to take off a few thousands of an inch of the underside of the reflector lip. This doesn't change the total length of the reflector and doesn't mar the inside of it. It just makes that "upper lip" of the reflector the same edge thickness as the original Mag reflector.

4. Don't touch the reflector at all and slap an o-ring over the mag head where you have the gap (part that doesn't screw down all the way).

I went with option 4 since mine is a "work light" and I don't really care how it looks. If I was going to worry about how it looked, I would have gone with option 3 and had someone with a lathe grind down the lip so it's the same size as the original Mag reflector. If you're going to grind it down yourself, don't grind down the outside of the lip. Grind down 2mm off the edge of the face that's closer to the batteries...

Best of luck with your project!
 
I have no idea why the LED wont fit in the opening. Maybe they changed something or sent you the wrong part. The easiest thing to do would be to just drill the hole larger.

As far as trimming it down to fit in the Mag head, you have four options...

1. (Least desirable) You cut the edge of the reflector off. That is going to scratch the crap out of everything.

2. (Second least desirable) You cut a bit off the threads of the Maglite where the lens gets mounted. I would never do that, but at least you aren't scratching the reflector.

3. Pay someone with a lathe to take off a few thousands of an inch of the underside of the reflector lip. This doesn't change the total length of the reflector and doesn't mar the inside of it. It just makes that "upper lip" of the reflector the same edge thickness as the original Mag reflector.

4. Don't touch the reflector at all and slap an o-ring over the mag head where you have the gap (part that doesn't screw down all the way).

I went with option 4 since mine is a "work light" and I don't really care how it looks. If I was going to worry about how it looked, I would have gone with option 3 and had someone with a lathe grind down the lip so it's the same size as the original Mag reflector. If you're going to grind it down yourself, don't grind down the outside of the lip. Grind down 2mm off the edge of the face that's closer to the batteries...

Best of luck with your project!

Thanks a lot.

I guess they must have started making them for smaller leds or something, because the opening is far too small for the p7 they sell at dx, also it looks a little different from the one pictured in this thread. Not sure if I dare drilling a new hole, because I fear that will scratch everything up. Might even use it for another led some day.

I also purchased another reflector, part #12229 at Dealextreme, and this one has the correct opening so I guess I will try this one first. The thick rim on top is still a problem though, so I will have to find a way to lathe it down somehow. Both reflectors fit perfectly inside the housing though apart from the rim.

Do you have any idea which one of these reflectors works best?
 
I have no idea which one will work better. You might want to tell them they shipped you the wrong 13803.

As far as the 12229 goes, here are two comments for it, so you will probably be very happy with it...

"I bought and received 2 of these from DX. Works great with a britelumens heat sink and C sized Mag. Absolutely beatiful beam pattern. A nice hotspot with great throw especially for a P7. Really easy to use."

"I've just put one in my Maglite with a DHS heatsink and Seoul P7 LED. Nice hot spot and NO DONUT! :) "
 
:wave:Hello, i am new to flashlights and am curious. If i purchase a p7 drop in from deal extreme and install it in my 4d maglite, other than modifying it to fit, can i direct drive it off of 4 standard d cell batteries and be safe and what kind of light output would i be looking at?:thanks: Thank you
 
:wave:Hello, i am new to flashlights and am curious. If i purchase a p7 drop in from deal extreme and install it in my 4d maglite, other than modifying it to fit, can i direct drive it off of 4 standard d cell batteries and be safe and what kind of light output would i be looking at?:thanks: Thank you
Are you talking about 14413? If so, the specs are:

- Voltage input range: 3.6V~8.4V
- 900 lumens max (manufacturer rated)

4 Ni-Mh batteries = 1.2v x 4 = 4.8V so you should be ok there, even with 4 alkaline you wont get higher than 8.4v so you're fine.
"900 lumens" claimed output will probably look about 5 times brighter than your incandescent bulb.
 
Thanks a lot.

I guess they must have started making them for smaller leds or something, because the opening is far too small for the p7 they sell at dx, also it looks a little different from the one pictured in this thread. Not sure if I dare drilling a new hole, because I fear that will scratch everything up. Might even use it for another led some day.

I also purchased another reflector, part #12229 at Dealextreme, and this one has the correct opening so I guess I will try this one first. The thick rim on top is still a problem though, so I will have to find a way to lathe it down somehow. Both reflectors fit perfectly inside the housing though apart from the rim.

Do you have any idea which one of these reflectors works best?

They make that reflector for SST-50, Cree XML, Cree MCE, etc
 
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