Need A Medium Sized Tactical Thrower

[scsmith]

I really like my Nitecore MH25 and Armytek Viking S, but I don't like the user defined part of their interfaces. I like the momentary / constant on clicky in turbo mode on both lights. I don't like that I can't get momentary on and stay in low mode in the user defined setting. I like the long throw of the Viking S, despite it's lower output. What I'd like is a 1x18650 / 2xCR123 light with the same size and throw as (or better than) the Viking S, but with only a low mode and a full power mode. The loosen the head / body interface of the Viking S and the MH25 is acceptable, but the low-high slight press-full press / slight tighten-full tighten tail cap of the Surefire Lumamax / EB1 tactical is better, and the slight twist high / low forward clicky tail cap like the one ElZetta offers would be ideal. I'm okay with assembling a light from parts from various sources if that's what it takes. I'd like to keep the price under $150 (US), but I'm willing to go up to $200.

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.

 

[enomosiki]

Just wait until the end of the month for the LX2 Ultra.

 

[scsmith]

Thanks for the heads up on the release time frame on the LX2U. I know it wouldn't save me much money, but would using a P60 host body with appropriate adapter and a TX-4 head with its larger reflector have better throw than the LX2U? On that same line of thought, if I understand it correctly, the ElZetta hi / low tail switch regulates the power to get the hi / low output from a single mode Malkoff drop-in. If this is correct, could the ElZetta switch be used to get a lower mode from the TX-4 head?

 

[enomosiki]

Elzetta uses different threadings than Surefires, so you aren't going to be lego'ing it any time soon.

Anyway, if you want to go the P60 route, don't even bother with a larger head. Ask vinhnguyen54 about overdriven P60 drop-in with XP-E2. That thing will produce a lance of light easily past 400-yards. 30,000+ lux.

As for the two-stage switch that you like, there is a solution, but not an easy one. Back several years ago, McGizmo produced a limited amount of resistor-equipped two-stage switch to fit inside Surefire's E-series tailcap. It's called McE2S, and can be easily modified to fit inside the larger Z41 tailcap, resulting in McC2S. They came with different resistors; 15, 22, 30 and 60 ohm--the higher the resistance resulting in lower low output. Unfortunately, the production ceased not long after it began due to cease-and-desist from Surefire, although the company was really nice about it. Your best option is to post a WTB thread for it in the CPF's Custom & Modified Flashlights - Buy/Sell/Trade section or over at CPF Marketplace, the former being where I obtained mine.

These are the parts that you'll need for your dream setup;
- Metal P60 Surefire host (6P, C2, Z2)
- McE2S (for two-stage activation, also the hardest part to find on this list)
- XP-E2 drop-in with smooth reflector and mounted directly to copper baseplate, driven at around 2A (contact vinhnguyen54 about this)
- aluminium foil (for creating proper thermal pathway from the drop-in to the body of the light)

These parts are optional;
- Cryos cooling head (replaces the stock Z44 head for improved heat dissipation)
- copper tape (step-up from aluminium foil, due to copper's superior heat conductivity)
- UCL (to replace the stock Surefire Borofloat lens, for better light transmittance)

Mash 'em up all together and you end up with a Franken-LX2. I rock a similar setup myself, which I nicknamed CX2DL, because it has the cigar grip of the C2, LX2's two-stage UI and sharp teeth of the Defender series;

I got the McC2S with 60-ohm resistor for it. Press the switch lightly for a 15-lumen output, push it all the way in and unleash the beast at 1,300 lumens.

 

[scsmith]

You have been most helpful, and your CX2DL looks awesome. I'll ask you another newb question though. You state:

As for the two-stage switch that you like, there is a solution, but not an easy one. Back several years ago, McGizmo produced a limited amount of resistor-equipped two-stage switch to fit inside Surefire's E-series tailcap. It's called McE2S, and can be easily modified to fit inside the larger Z41 tailcap, resulting in McC2S.

So, if I can't get a McE2S/C2S would it be possible to modify a SF EB1 Tac or LX switch to fit inside a Z41 tailcap? If so, combining that with a dual mode P60 drop in, or just screwing it onto a P2X Pro might be a simpler and lower priced solution. If not, the smooth reflector XP-E2 drop in and a single mode switch complimented by my EB1 or E1L in my pocket would be a decent compromise.

 

[enomosiki]

You have been most helpful, and your CX2DL looks awesome. I'll ask you another newb question though. You state:

So, if I can't get a McE2S/C2S would it be possible to modify a SF EB1 Tac or LX switch to fit inside a Z41 tailcap? If so, combining that with a dual mode P60 drop in, or just screwing it onto a P2X Pro might be a simpler and lower priced solution. If not, the smooth reflector XP-E2 drop in and a single mode switch complimented by my EB1 or E1L in my pocket would be a decent compromise.

Nope. Sticking the guts of the LX2 tailcap inside Z41 won't do any good. It and the McE2S are two entirely different beasts.

McE2S works by limiting the current flow using the resistor (half-press) or bypassing the resistor and allowing the drop-in to run at full power (full-press). In simpler terms, the resistor is what is doing all of the work to limit the current flowing to the drop-in.

The resistor inside LX2's tailcap, on the other hand, is there to signal the circuits located inside the head, and does not do the limiting by itself. While the resistor does limit the current somewhat, it is mainly there to signal the circuit to toggle between the two programmed modes. The same operation is used other two-stage lights, such as L1 and A2.

Also, for the McE2S to work properly, you want to use single-mode drop-in.

 

[scsmith]

That completely makes sense. I wasn't sure if the SF dual mode switches were all circuit toggle resistors, or if some were actually using a resistor to regulate output.

 

[TEEJ]

Would you consider the new Malkoff Houndog?

You might be able to program the Armytec Predator to do what you want as well.

 

[scsmith]

I would have ordered a Houndog but they're listed as sold out on the Malkoff website :banghead: . I looked at the Armytek Predator manual and see that I should have bought that instead of the Viking S :banghead: . You can truly program the Predator and not cycle through to remember the last mode so-called programming that other lights have.

 

[enomosiki]

ThruNite TN11 has a programmable secondary output mode. When its head is tightened, it will run on max. When loosened, you get one of the programmable modes; moonlight, 10~90% ramping, beacon and strobe. To enter the programming mode, you need to rapidly loosen, tighten and loosen the head within a second, at which point the light will blink to indicate that it has entered programming mode, and it will continuously cycle between the available modes. Upon reaching the desired mode, you can lock it in by tightening the head.

It's only $55 with free shipping and handling over at thrunite-store.com. That might be a decent alternative to what you are looking for.

 

[scsmith]

Enomosiki, you are incredibly helpful. I searched more on the TN11, and found the Scorpion. I realize that the Scorpion is twice the price, but the UI on the Scorpion might be the perfect fit for me. I also saw where you mentioned that the turbo head basically makes it into a TN11 with Scorpion UI. I'll have a Scorpion here Wed for $103 (shipped next day with my Amazon prime account). Now I just need to find a US seller with the turbo head in stock.

 

[enomosiki]

The second and third generation Scorpions are good choice. Just make sure to take care of the tailcap--it can be finnicky, which I found out the hard way.

Here are some pointers;

- The tailswitch and the mode selector rings are made out of plastic, which isn't really reassuring in durability department. I once dropped the light, and the tailswitch flew out. It went back in its place easily, though. Just don't drop the sucker and you'll be fine.
- I once put too much lubricant on the tailcap threads, and that was somehow interfering with the mode toggling. When you are doing maintenance, use just enough lube for the tailcap threads.
- Strong magnetic fields can interfere with the tailswitch. Put a strong magnet next to the tailcap and move it around, and you'll see what I mean.
- To enter the lockout position, you need to slightly depress the switch from the programmed output position and then turn it to the lockout position. Simply trying to put it in lockout won't work.
- You'll be surprised at how the light can throw even without the turbo head.
- I'm not sure if ThruNite has updated the stock holster but, from my experience, you can't use the included holster when you have the turbo head equipped.
- Moonlight and programmable ramping are constant-on. Strobe and maximum are momentary.
- To enter the programming mode when the selector ring is position at the programmable ramping position, just hold the switch down for a few seconds until it blinks, at which point the light will repeatedly ramp the output from lowest to highest programmable outputs. When it reaches the output that you want to program it to, you can lock it in by simply releasing the switch. The ramping outputs range from 9~89%.
- Due to its UI, you can have the light running on one of the modes and have another mode that you want to instantly access at the ready. e.g. - Let's say that you activated the light at moonlight for low-light navigation. You can then move the selector ring to maximum position without changing the output until the moment you hit the switch again, giving you an instant access to burst of light.
- From my personal experience as well as those from my LEO friends, the strobe mode gets 'em every time.
- The switch is very easy to press. Too easy, in fact. I used to belt-carry mine in bezel-down position on the left side of my pants and the light would turn on every time I flexed my torso to the left. The fact that I constantly had the selector ring at maximum and never used the lockout position didn't help the matter, either.

 

[gianetics]

go to the mp sell the viking and get the armytek predator xp-g2. really you can program it anyway you want and the beam is freaking insane. its only like 490 lumens out the front but i was lighting up trees over 300 yards away and still not maxing it out.