Need EDC with this type of UI...

[snakyjake]

I need some help choosing my next light with the following UI:

• When switch is fully depressed = constant on/off.
• When switch is half depressed = momentary on.
• Set brightness levels by twisting bezel.

Other requirements:

• LED.
• Long run time.
• Bright.
• Compact (Single CR123A; something about the size of Fenix P2D).

Other:

• Not too gnarly to snag on the pocket.

Ideally, a light similar to NiteCore EX10 or Fenix P2D, but with a different UI.

Thank you,

Jake

 

[divine]

The Olight M20 has what you're asking for, but is a 2 cell sized light.

The Olight T10 has what you're asking for, but has a reverse clickie.

I don't know too many other lights that change levels by twisting the bezel... The newish Jetbeam military light does, but it is even larger than a normal 2 cell light. 😕

 

[Toaster]

Eagletac P10C
Eagletac T10C
Nitecore Extreme

P10C is closest to what you're looking for sizewise out of those choices.

 

[Gunner12]

Not the brightest and not 1 CR123 but the Dosun lights comes close.

I'm not sure if this is the kind of bezel twisting you are looking for but the Spartainian II might work. No clickie though.

What kind of bezel twisting are you looking for? Surefire U2 type?

 

[Marduke]

Fenix PD20/P2D with the forward clicky installed
NiteCore Extreme

 

[HoopleHead]

NiteCore Defender Infinity

 

[UnderTheWeepingMoon]

XR-19C perhaps, if you've got the dosh.

 

[ap'l jak]

Try to check ITP Light C7T. Nearest UI I can think of. But it runs on AA.

 

[youreacrab]

+1 on eagletac. look and feel quality tops fenix. really happy with my eagletac purchase.

 

[LEDninja]

Surefire U2

Fenix L1T v2.0 if you do not mind switching to AA

 

[snakyjake]

Thanks for the list of options. I've been taking some time to create a list of lights with their UI's. I've tried my best at understanding the different UI's, and I may be wrong on how they work. Some of the UI's are just confusing, especially when you have more than one flashlight with differing UI.

Here's the list so far:

Surefire U2 Ultra
Good
Yes, this is the UI I'm looking for.
Momentary on.
Constant on.
Brightness selected by twisting bezel.
Bad
Too Expensive.
Size/form factor makes it not a pocket EDC.


Eagletac P10c
Good
Momentary on.
Constant on.
Brightness selected by twisting bezel.
Can tailstand.
Two brightness levels: High/Low (220/60).
Wish
Wish for something lower than 220. I don’t want to burn through the battery in .7 hour.


Fenix L1Tv2
Good
Momentary on.
Constant on.
Brightness selected by twisting bezel.
Output levels: high/low (96/16).
Seems similar to Eagletac except for output, runtime, battery, tailstand.
Wish
Wish for higher lumens (130 would be nice).
Wish for longer runtime.
Maybe a CR123A?
Tailstand


Surefire E1B
Good
Momentary high via single press.
Momentary low via double press.
Constant high via full click.
Constant low via double click.
Bad
Price
Can find similar lights that are brighter (80/5).


Fenix Forward Clicky
Get momentary on/off, but lose constant on/off?
How do I select the desired output? Same with regular clicky?
Bezel twist for output would be ideal, but I may be okay with clicky.


Olight T10
Good
Change brightness levels via bezel.
Bad
No momentary.


NiteCore Extreme
NiteCore Defender Infinity
Good
Full depress = Constant on/off
Half depress = momentary
Bad
Output selected by loosening bezel, waiting for desired output, then tighten bezel.


Spartanian
Bad
UI looked confusing to me.
Seems big.

 

[Marduke]

Couple clarifications:

Fenix Forward Clicky
Get momentary on/off, but lose constant on/off?
How do I select the desired output? Same with regular clicky?
Bezel twist for output would be ideal, but I may be okay with clicky.


NiteCore Extreme
NiteCore Defender Infinity
Good
Full depress = Constant on/off
Half depress = momentary
Bad
Output selected by loosening bezel, waiting for desired output, then tighten bezel.

The Fenix forward clicky is both momentary, and constant on. With the head loose, you get general modes, with the head tight you get turbo and strobe. In a particular position (loose or tight) you select modes by partially pressing the tailcap (momentary), releasing, and pressing again to get to the next mode. You click full on to stay in that mode. It's fine for intermitent momentary use on either low or turbo, but signaling is not possible (if momentary signaling is what you want)

The Nitecore stores 2 modes, one you define and one tactical (either max or strobe). You pre-set the defined mode ahead of time. So the light operates as a single mode light depending on what position the head is in. If you tighten or loosen the head, you jump into the other mode. You only have to twist back and forth if you want to change your presets.

 

[snakyjake]

The Fenix forward clicky is both momentary, and constant on. With the head loose, you get general modes, with the head tight you get turbo and strobe. In a particular position (loose or tight) you select modes by partially pressing the tailcap (momentary), releasing, and pressing again to get to the next mode. You click full on to stay in that mode. It's fine for intermitent momentary use on either low or turbo, but signaling is not possible (if momentary signaling is what you want)

To understand the Fenix forward clicky better...

If I momentary turn on/off too quickly, I can unintentionally change output levels?

As for signaling...useless to me. This is for home EDC. Plus, anyone can make any light signal if they really wanted to.

 

[HKJ]

To understand the Fenix forward clicky better...

If I momentary turn on/off too quickly, I can unintentionally change output levels?

Depends on the model:

..D: You have multiple settings for each head position (Usual delivered with reverse switch).

..T: You have on setting for each head position (Usual delivered with forward switch).

 

[Marduke]

To understand the Fenix forward clicky better...

If I momentary turn on/off too quickly, I can unintentionally change output levels?

As for signaling...useless to me. This is for home EDC. Plus, anyone can make any light signal if they really wanted to.

Yes. After using the light in momentary mode, if you use it again with 2 seconds, it will change the mode. If it's longer than 2 seconds, you'll still be momentary in low/turbo (depending on head position). You change levels my using momentary a couple times until you reach you desired level, then you fully click for constant on in that mode.

The 2-level "T" series is different, and the above only applies to the PD20 type of UI (6 modes with 2 head positions).


It's much easier than it sounds.

 

[snakyjake]

I just read a review on the Fenix L1T:

There is no momentary or signalling mode available when the flashlight is off, however, you can blink the flashlight while it is on by partially depressing the button.

This makes it sound like the switch is: constant on/off; momentary off; no momentary on. Right?

 

[Marduke]

I just read a review on the Fenix L1T:
This makes it sound like the switch is: constant on/off; momentary off; no momentary on. Right?

That must be an old description from when it used a reverse clicky. All forward clickys work the same. Half press for momentary, full press for constant on.

The current model of L1T v2.0 uses a forward clicky.

 

[Gunner12]

If you don't mind the output changing thing in the back, and the high cost, the Gatlight V3 might work.

 

[Blindasabat]

+1 on Eagletac T10C or P10C. P10C is slimmer than T10C.

Also Fenix L2T with P2D body and Fenix forward clicky installed. It still has constant on as it is a 'clicky.' I have one of these and it is a very nice small CR123 light. Tighten bezel = high, loosen 1/4 turn = low (~10L). Low is lower than the Eagletac (low = ~60L) for longer run time. Same size as P2D.

 

[snakyjake]

Also Fenix L2T with P2D body and Fenix forward clicky installed. It still has constant on as it is a 'clicky.' I have one of these and it is a very nice small CR123 light. Tighten bezel = high, loosen 1/4 turn = low (~10L). Low is lower than the Eagletac (low = ~60L) for longer run time. Same size as P2D.

The idea of lego-ing something together might be the answer. Fenix has almost everything I want. I want the UI of the L1T, and the runtime of the P2D. I think that will give me everything I asked for.

Should I get the Fenix L1T or L2T head? What's the difference? Why?

Will the tail of the L1T/L2T work on a P2D body? Or do I need to still order a forward clicky for the P2D tail?

Is there a Q5 emitter, instead of a Q2? Is there a big and noticeable difference between the two? Why is there no Q5 for the L1T/L2T?

Jake