Need Help Deciding (18650 lights)

[gmf2010]

Hello,

I've had my eye on a TK11 for a while now, but just never pulled the trigger, as my 6P LED was decent enough. Now that I see there is a TK11 R2 available, I'm glad I waited. However, I'm now a bit torn between three lights. I'm hoping you guys can help sway me in a particular direction.

I'll be using this light mainly with 18650s, so 123 compatability is not required.

So, what it all comes down to is...

- Fenix TK11 R2

- Olight M20 warrior premium R2

- EagleTac T10L


Thanks in advance,

Greg

 

[PhantomPhoton]

Well the Olight vs the other two has a more complex UI. If youre interested in a much lower level than either the EagleTac or the TK11 provide than I'd say go for the Olight.

Comparing the TK11 to the T10L, there are 2 major differences in my opinion. First the TK11 has a smooth reflector. It will throw a bit further but be less useful in situations where you want to light up a nearby area. Second the TK11 (and the Olight) don't have full regulation on an 18650. They are semi regulated on the 18650... in other words constant light output for some of the battery life but dimming later on. The Eagletac is made specificaly for an 18650 so it has a more complex circuit that keeps the light level constant through the entire charge fo the 18650 cell. The only real drawback is that the T10L cannot use CR123 cells.

So I can't really recommend one for you, it more depends on which you prefer. Hopefully I've hlped outline some differences though. All three are decent lights.

 

[1996alnl]

I would go with the Olight M20 R2.
It lasts a long time on a 18650 cell. You can use RCR's and primaries in it if you feel like it (100% regulation on these), a very nice beam with the OP reflector.
It's one heck of a thrower especialy with the SM reflector with lots of side spill.
Removing the strike bezel and tac ring makes the light more pocketable.
Comes with a very nice clip,bezel down the way it should be.

 

[TONY M]

The new TK11 R2 has flat regulation unlike the Q5 version.

Go for the Olight if you value a lower low mode with excellent runtime.

 

[daj013]

Add another light to the mix. The JetBeam Jet III-M.
I bought 4 of these in the last week. We are using them now and really like them. However, I am also going to try another 18650 light, just haven't narrowed it down yet. I am still gaining knowledge from this site and post like yours.

Thanks
David J

 

[electric sheep]

Dereelight CL1H is superb with R2, i love mine.

 

[Mjolnir]

The eagletac probably has the highest output of the 3. The TK11 R2 apparently has about 40 minutes more runtime, but it probably doesn't have as much overall brightness. Of course they have different beam profiles, so you can't really compare.
I would say go for the TK11 R2 if you want more throw, but get the T10L if you want brighter spill (which is more useful in my opinion).
The T10L has a very nice beam and can tailstand. It also costs nearly $20 less than the TK11R2. Both have high and low modes that are similar in output.
My T10L gets almost exactly 2 hours runtime with 2500 Mah batteries on high, which is enough for me.
It really comes down to your personaly preference of more throw or more spill.

 

[StandardBattery]

I've never tried an M20.

I vote for the TK11-R2, great all round light I have Q5 version, and even though it does not have flat regulation on an 18650 I really like it. I liked the feel and the led tint more than the T10L which was quite blue/cool. If the light was to be used more indoors... then I may opt for the T10L as it has the nicer beam pattern for indoors.

I'd also vote for the Jet-III-M, a really nice light and the second level is programmable which makes it more flexible than the TK11. It is also available with a neutral/warm tint option; not as bright, but amazing outdoors.

Good luck.

 

[PhantomPhoton]

The new TK11 R2 has flat regulation unlike the Q5 version.

Go for the Olight if you value a lower low mode with excellent runtime.

On 18650? I haven't seen a CPF review of that yet, can you provide a source for the info? Thanks!

 

[Mjolnir]

I wouldn't say that the T10L is all that cool, and it definitely is not "blue." The corona is slightly warmish, but it is still by no means warm. I would put it at more of a neutral overall, but that is just my opinion. I happen to like the whiteness of the T10L.

 

[gmf2010]

I believe I have made up my mind to go with the OLight M20 Premium. One more question that I hope can easily be cleared up.. On the Batter Junction site (http://www.batteryjunction.com/premium-olight-m20-warrior.html), under color options, there is Black, Olive Drab +$3.00 (which is what I prefer), and R2 WD Black +$5.00

What exactly is the R2 WD Black?

 

[Toaster]

I believe I have made up my mind to go with the OLight M20 Premium. One more question that I hope can easily be cleared up.. On the Batter Junction site (http://www.batteryjunction.com/premium-olight-m20-warrior.html), under color options, there is Black, Olive Drab +$3.00 (which is what I prefer), and R2 WD Black +$5.00

What exactly is the R2 WD Black?

See this thread.

 

[gmf2010]

Ah, ok, thank you. So if I understand that correctly, the WD version of this light will have a warmer (white / bluish) tint to it. What are the real benefits to the WD over the standard LED with a green / yellowish tint? Please excuse my ignorance, as I wasn't aware of the tint discrepancy.

 

[swrdply400mrelay]

Basically if you prefer one tint color over the other choose the one you like. Some people like white, some like blue, some like warm, etc.


Good choice on the M20! :thumbsup:

 

[gmf2010]

If it wouldn't be asking too much, I'd appreciate it if anyone could tell me their tint preference and why. I prefer the olive drab anodizing on the M20 (which only comes in the standard tint), but I would be willing to switch to black if the WD tint is more practical/beneficial/etc. I can't wait to get my hands on one of these!

 

[gmf2010]

If it wouldn't be asking too much, I'd appreciate it if anyone could tell me their tint preference and why. I prefer the olive drab anodizing on the M20 (which only comes in the standard tint), but I would be willing to switch to black if the WD tint is more practical/beneficial/etc. I can't wait to get my hands on one of these!

Anyone? Resisting the urge to just impulse buy one of them is killing me, haha.

 

[Mjolnir]

I'm sort of curious as to what made you choose the Olight over the other two. It costs more than the fenix, but does not have flat regulation with 18650 batteries (which you stated you will be using). This means that it will gradually decline in brightness until the battery runs out. The T10L and TK11 will stay at approximately 100% bightness for the whole time until the batteries run out, so you will not get any dimming.
The olight also costs more than the Fenix TK11 R2 and T10L, and all it really has that the others don't is a low mode and a strobe mode.
THIS image from THIS review shows the regulation graph for the Olight. As you can see, it does not maintain its maximum output at all, which means you will not be using the light at full brightness unless you have freshly charged batteries.
THIS graph from light-reviews.com shows the graph for the T10L. As you can see, it is basically completely flat, which means you won't see a decline in brightness. The TK11R2 apparently also has regulation like this.

 

[gmf2010]

I'm sort of curious as to what made you choose the Olight over the other two. It costs more than the fenix, but does not have flat regulation with 18650 batteries (which you stated you will be using). This means that it will gradually decline in brightness until the battery runs out. The T10L and TK11 will stay at approximately 100% bightness for the whole time until the batteries run out, so you will not get any dimming.
The olight also costs more than the Fenix TK11 R2 and T10L, and all it really has that the others don't is a low mode and a strobe mode.
THIS image from THIS review shows the regulation graph for the Olight. As you can see, it does not maintain its maximum output at all, which means you will not be using the light at full brightness unless you have freshly charged batteries.
THIS graph from light-reviews.com shows the graph for the T10L. As you can see, it is basically completely flat, which means you won't see a decline in brightness. The TK11R2 apparently also has regulation like this.

I know I originally said I would be using 18650s (and ideally I would have liked to), however, I realized the TK11 R2 only comes with a smooth reflector. Also, I like the modes available on the M20 (Strobe / 7 / 90 / 250), as well as the availability of both OP and smooth reflectors. If I do go with the M20, I will not be using 18650s and will stick with CR123As.

The T10L is still a possibility, as is the CL1H R2 (just started reading up on this one). I'm hoping to come to a conclusion by tomorrow.

**EDIT** No long looking at the CL1H due to an undesirable (and unintelligible, imo) user interface.

 

[Toaster]

If it wouldn't be asking too much, I'd appreciate it if anyone could tell me their tint preference and why. I prefer the olive drab anodizing on the M20 (which only comes in the standard tint), but I would be willing to switch to black if the WD tint is more practical/beneficial/etc. I can't wait to get my hands on one of these!

The M20 R2s use a WG tint bin which can be a bit greenish. The WD tint is cooler, much more of a pure white. If anything you may see a slight blue tint with it. I dislike green so between these two choices I'd lean towards WD.

 

[Mjolnir]

If you want a smoother beam, than the T10L might be better than the TK11. It has a textured reflector with barely any noticable rings, and very bright spill. It also costs much less than the M20. The only thing it really lacks is a low mode. If you want to strobe, you could partially depress the button repeatedly.