need Help with my transmisson please

[benchmade_boy]

Hello all again I need some help.

I was on the highway last weekend, I had my criuse set at 65 when My tranny kicked down. I took the criuse off to try and get it to shift up, no go. So I pulled over and shut it off, still it woud only be in 3rd and wouldnt shift to the foruth gear.

So I got in my friends truck for a while, later I needed to head home so before had I checked the tranny fluid and it was fine. I made it home and parked but it was still acting up. The next day I looked into it and it seems all I have is 2nd third and reverse gear. My speedo still works, I put it in drive and it starts out in 2nd not first, I manually shift to 1st and its still in 2nd gear. When I get up to speed it shifts to 3rd. If I shift it manually to third it will jerk pretty hard. I dont see how I lost first if I still have reverse becuase they are both the same gear I thought.

For all you that dont know already it is an 2003 chevy silverado Z71, 5.3 and has the 4L60E tranny in it. Its was bought with 76,000 on it and now I have 95,000. I have taken very good care of it since it was boughten, never had any troubles except a know sensor and the tranny has never slipped.

Thanks for any help.

 

[SFG2Lman]

i would try adding some transmission honey or mineral oil, (can be found in automotive aisle at walmart) any of those additives will give you a hopefully temp fix for less than $10 you can try getting a full flush and filter change for around 300-400 but i would try the cheaper things first, bring it over to autozone for their free code check to see if it has thrown any codes for sensors/computery thingys, but after that, its prolly just time for a new one

I run away from auto transmissions, because without a PHD in rocket surgery when you open them, it looks like the ark of the covenant inside (yes your face melts off at the complexity) i recommend a junkyard scavenge, their should be 1000 compatible transmissions in your area for 400-1000 dollars....(i blew my first 2 auto trans cars...owned stick since) sorry to hear about that man keep us posted and good luck!

 

[Vinniec5]

Did you check for codes? Is the engine light on? First check ALL fuses in the panel especially the O2 sensor/MAF sensor fuses, the tranny electronics get their power from the O2 sensor system wiring and if an o2 shorts or goes bad can blow the fuse giving you limp-in mode which is what you have now. 2nd and reverse are usually the same in most makers trannys. Another likely culprit is one of the shift solenoids solenoid A controls 1st and 4th shifts and can be replaced from the pan. This is where Id start since the trans shifts ok and the problem started suddenly. Check for wiring damage also maybe something hit/rubbed through the harness. B4 anything check for codes they may lead you in the right direction first

 

[benchmade_boy]

I dont have a computer to check for codes. I just unplugged the only plugg that goes into my tranny on the passenger side, to check if i was getting any power to it when it was plugged in, sure enough it didnt change any when I unplugged it. So that tells me I am not getting power to my tranny, plugged in our not, so there must be a fuse blown somwhere but I cant find them. The only ones I can find are the ones in the box under the hood, and the ones inside the cab, checked them all, none are blown. where would they be?

The tranny isnt toast yet, like they said it in limp home mode. And I already have a couple gallons of lucas oil stabalizer if that was it. Oils fine, its not burnt or gritty.

 

[Vinniec5]

I'm leaning toward Shift solenoid A but I'd bring it to Autozone like SFG2Lman said if you can't check codes yourself or to your mechanic B4 I change any parts or add any fluids to the tranny

 

[Eugene]

I had a 2000 S10 that did the same thing. Vinniec5's was what my issue was, there are a pair of solonoids A and B, A is for 1st and OD, B for 2 and 3. The soloniod is about a $20 part. I'd get some fluid, a filter/gasket and the soloniod and swap it. Be careful though, the plastic plugs seem to get brittle, the latch broke on mine and I had to wire tie it.

 

[benchmade_boy]

So I tore it down and yes I too broke all but one plastic prong thing so I think illbe buying a new wiring harness. But in breaking it down I found out there is a fuse in my pressure manifold switch and when putting a test light to it( I know but I dont have my multimeter yet), it does not light on the other side, so its burnt out. I can get the solonoids for around 15 a peice so I think I may just replace them while im at it. and the TCC solonoid. Does anyone know if the shift A soloniod and the shift B soloniod are the same? they look the exact same just go in differnt paces in the wiring.

Do you think This will fix my problems? I sure do hope so. I would rather spend 200 on electrical parts then 2000 on a new transmission.

 

[MarNav1]

Very difficult to diagnose from here BB. My moms Buick has a stalling problem, the shop says its the turn signal switch. Would it suprise you to know that switch costs $455 not including labor? My suggestion is to use a internet search, find a pickup forum. They will know whats going on with your truck. I have done this quite a bit, helps alot. Hate to see you spend a bunch of cash on stuff trying to figure this out. http://www.automotiveforums.com/f1217-pickup_trucks.html
an example, there are others too.

 

[Eugene]

I was going to replace that wiring harness but it was like $150. But since then I've found where to get those connectors, they are standard metripack that nearly every manufacturer uses and when gm spun off packard/delphi they started selling them to distributers as well. go to www.powerandsignal.com and download the big catalog then look in the metripack section, IIRC those soloniods were small pins like the .150 or maybe the .280 size. Once you find the one that looks right you can go back to power and signal and search on the number and get dimensional drawings. Then goto www.mouser.com and plug in the part number and order them for pennies. You should be able to carefully release the pins from the housing and just swap the housing.