New EDC Light

RByers91

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Nov 3, 2013
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So I've been currently carrying a HDS 170 as my daily carry for a while, but I'm finding it being a tad large to carry in the pocket at all times. So I'm in the market for something slightly smaller in diameter, i'd say between .5 and .7 inches. Type of cell, and length don't matter as long as it falls in between the width specified. I'd also prefer it to be a high cri led, preferably the nichia 219. Budget is around $200, i may be able to get together more if necessary. Thanks.
 

Amelia

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Mar 25, 2015
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So I've been currently carrying a HDS 170 as my daily carry for a while, but I'm finding it being a tad large to carry in the pocket at all times. So I'm in the market for something slightly smaller in diameter, i'd say between .5 and .7 inches. Type of cell, and length don't matter as long as it falls in between the width specified. I'd also prefer it to be a high cri led, preferably the nichia 219. Budget is around $200, i may be able to get together more if necessary. Thanks.

EagleTac D25A Ti (Titanium) Nichia 219. Still available, if you look, for around $80.
 

RByers91

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Owned one of those, decent light until i lost it (clip seemed to get caught on everything). Still open to other options.
 

Berneck1

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D25a would have been my pick also. I have never has an issue with the clip... Perhaps there are clips you can swap out?

For me the D25a clicky anodized aluminum version offers some of the best quality/performance to cost you can find.


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RByers91

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Not sure about the clip replacement. May look into that. Are there any custom makers that crate lights in the size specifications? Obviously they'd be over the 200 budget, but would be willing to go over if necessary.
 

StorminMatt

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How about a Zebralight SC62d? It's quite small, even for a 1xAA. And unlike most high CRI 1xAA lights, it's actually decently bright (200 lumens on AA with a 300 lumen burst with a 14500). The Luxeon emitter is somewhat different from the Nichia 219A. But it's still a really nice emitter. I would say that it comes about as close to a pure white as possible. Best of all, the light comes in at well under $200.
 

Str8stroke

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Prometheus Beta may be worth a look.

Regards.

Especially nice with the clip added. Also a Maratac AA would be a nice EDC in Nichia.

7021039E-FC82-46CC-9BB6-753ACD57165B_zpstu1dia3c.jpg
 

recDNA

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D25a would have been my pick also. I have never has an issue with the clip... Perhaps there are clips you can swap out?

For me the D25a clicky anodized aluminum version offers some of the best quality/performance to cost you can find.


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums
With the titanium version do you notice a delay between click down and led on?
 

Amelia

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With the titanium version do you notice a delay between click down and led on?

The only delay is the mechanical "return" time from when you release pressure and the spring returns the switch to the contact. Not noticeable at all.
 

recDNA

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Most flashlights turn on with down click. Eagtac apparently turns on with up after down click. I find it annoying. I kind of wonder why they do that. My old d25c clicky turns on with the down click like most lights.
 

Amelia

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Most flashlights turn on with down click. Eagtac apparently turns on with up after down click. I find it annoying. I kind of wonder why they do that. My old d25c clicky turns on with the down click like most lights.

What you're talking about is "forward clicky" vs. "Reverse Clicky" switches. The "on with press" is the forward clicky type. They both have their advantages and disadvantages, and a lot of it is preference and what you're used to. I use both types and I'm used to both, so for me it doesn't matter.

Forward clicky is better if you want brief bursts of light, for signalling or quick checking dark areas. You have to set the mode before "clicking" or you have to turn the light off again before altering the mode again.

Reverse clicky allows you to set or change the mode after the light is clicked on, and if you drop the light while changing modes it will stay on (a benefit of dubious value). You can still signal with a reverse clicky, but it's in reverse - you press in to darken the light instead of light it.
 

recDNA

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I must correct a previous post. My current D25C clicky also turns on with the second or up click but does so immediately. My titanium D25C clicky has a noticeable delay. I am not fast enough to measure the delay on a stop watch but it is there. I guess the reverse clicky is needed to avoid accidentally turning on strobe. A better solution would be to hide strobe imo. Maybe 4 rapid clicks or something.
 

RByers91

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Alright lets narrow the scope down a bit and see if any other options come into play. Lets say roughly 200 lumens (give or take 50), at least 3 modes (low, medium, high). I'll up the budget to $300, but the dimensions stay the same no larger than .7" in diameter. Prefer a light with a nice split between flood and throw (i know this may be difficult with the size of the light). Must still be a high cri led. Thanks!
 

recDNA

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Alright lets narrow the scope down a bit and see if any other options come into play. Lets say roughly 200 lumens (give or take 50), at least 3 modes (low, medium, high). I'll up the budget to $300, but the dimensions stay the same no larger than .7" in diameter. Prefer a light with a nice split between flood and throw (i know this may be difficult with the size of the light). Must still be a high cri led. Thanks!
Ok hds clicky 170
 

AVService

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Dec 30, 2011
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A Peak Eiger or Logan would do the trick.
The Logan can be had in Neutral which I really like a lot and the Eiger can come right from Oveready with the 219 head in either Mule or Optic heads. These are simple rugged lights,different than what you are used to and pretty darn reliable for me.

Aside from this almost any 219 light smaller than the HDS seems to meet your requirements as stated and that is a small pile to look at too.
 

RByers91

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Nov 3, 2013
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I have actually been looking into peaks lights. I'm considering a 2xAAA body with an Ultra head. It seems it may meet my requirements.
 
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