New ZTS MBT-1 battery tester

faucon

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
269
I've just received my new MBT-1 from Lighthound. So far I'm very pleased. The results are consistent with what I'd expect from both new and partially drained cells of several types: AA alkaline, AA lithium, 18650, 17670, 14670, RCR123A, CR2032 coin cell, and nimh AA. There's one oddity, though. In trying to test a AAA lithium cell, I noticed that the unit is only marked for 'AA lithium' cells. These test fine. With the AAA's, however, the readings declined every time I tested the same cell in succession: 100%, 80%, 60%, etc. after only a few test cycles. Does the MBT-1 just overwhelm the smaller AAA cell and drain too much from it when testing?
Note: just checked out the Thomas Distributing web site. It looks as if the new MBT-1 should work fine with AAA lithium cells. Not sure why the above happened. The cells tested were 'lightly' used but shouldn't have been close to being discharged.
 
Last edited:
ginaz said:
how far apart were your repeat testings?
Just a few seconds for the most part, but I waited a bit longer, less than a minute, for another test or two and the cells never got back to 80% or 100%.
 
Personally I prefer the accuracy of a digital multimeter over a ZTS, but that's just me. With experience, reading the voltage in .001V increments tells me much more than +or-20% accuracy readings that I'm not sure meaning anything in the first place.
grinser2.gif
 
Last edited:
Its price is more than $50 and it gives me only a row of leds to tell me the percentage of battery capacity.

It should have a LED display that gives me the battery capacity in mAh and the voltage, not just a line of leds to look at and figure out battery condition.

It's way overpriced for a guessing game toy.
 
Measuring voltage of a cell not under load is worthless. More than once I've done it and had cells read within 1% of their original voltage only to die after 2-5 minutes of use or not light up at all.

"lightly used" is extremely subjective. If we know "how much" we've used our cells, then we wouldn't have to test them. I think the readings on the used AAA lithium cells shows just how effective testing with the ZTS is. If a new cell drops with repeated testing, then it's just not up to par. The fact that it does it with "lightly used" cells shows it's accuracy.

I waited for several months for the newest model with lithium 1.5v capability to come out and I paid more than $50 for it. I don't consider my new tool to be a guessing game toy. Please show me any device that gives battery capacity in mAh and voltage with an LED display in 2 seconds at any price, much less $50.

The ZTS is a capable tool and gives relevant information that is important to me. If a new cell tests less than 100% it doesn't mean that the cell is worthless or unuseable, but it does mean that it's not up to par with other cells that do test at 100%. That might indicate the state of use for a used cell or how I would rate the cell if it is a new one.

If the tester doesn't do what you want it to do, then don't buy it, but please don't infer that those of us who have are ignorant consumers.
 
InfidelCastro said:
Personally I prefer the accuracy of a digital multimeter over a ZTS, but that's just me. With experience, reading the voltage in .001V increments tells me much more than +or-20% accuracy readings that I'm not sure meaning anything in the first place.
grinser2.gif

+1
 
I received the new MBT-1 last week. I have some brand new AA and AAA cells. I'll test them later this evening and let you know what I find.

I too use a digital multimeter and also like the ZTS tester.
 
kitelights said:
Measuring voltage of a cell not under load is worthless.



If you say so.. it works very well for me.


By the way, technically the cell is under load, albeit a very small one, when you test the voltage.

How do you prefer to test voltage, when the cell is under a 1amp load? Then you've wasted some of the battery already too.
 
Last edited:
InfidelCastro said:
Personally I prefer the accuracy of a digital multimeter over a ZTS, ...

I don't have a ZTS and use a DMM as a first cut battery tester.

But, be aware that merely using a DMM to measure open circuit (i.e., no load) battery voltage is not a comprehensive test. It will not show a high internal resistance defect.
 
Hello InfidelCastro,

OK, let me give you a quiz...

I have 8 CR123 cells that have the following open circuit voltages:

2.993
2.988
3.000
3.008

3.020
3.034
3.029
3.040

How would you rate them?

Tom
 
Hello InfidelCastro,

OK, let me give you a quiz...

I have 8 CR123 cells that have the following open circuit voltages:

2.993
2.988
3.000
3.008

3.020
3.034
3.029
3.040

How would you rate them?

Tom



I had a nice long reply typed out, but IE crashed, and then the cable guy showed up, so I'll try this again. Here's the Cliff's Notes of my previously attempted post:

Assuming they are rested cells and not used recently, to me it would depend on the vintage and brand of the battery to me. Also, I would likely test fire two batteries of similar voltage and then take a reading after that. That will give you a good idea if the cells are matched and what their condition is.

For example most of the cheaper cells such as Titanium and Battery Station that I've seen come with a voltage around 3.1-3.05V to start with.

I received a 6P from B/S/T the other day. The batteries that came with it were Surefires dated 06/2015. They both tested at exactly 3.140V. This tells me they were probably used together and are likely the original batteries. It tells me that they may have been turned on once for a few seconds or not at all. It tells me they are close to new batteries.

Most brand new quality cells like Surefires, Duracells and Energizers come with a starting voltage of around 3.2-3.28V.

To me, what the ZTS tester says of the batteries makes little difference, because I judge batteries by what I'm going to run them in and not by overall capacity.


Now, I have three questions:

1. Is it true that the ZTS tester uses voltage reading to ascertain battery capacity?

2. Is it true that the ZTS is not designed for lithium batteries?

3. How would the ZTS predict a battery suddenly going bad any better than a multimeter? Regardless of whether it tests it under load for a couple seconds, I still don't see it.
 
Hello InfidelCastro,

I am sorry you lost your post...

I will answer your questions after you give me your assessment of my cells...

Realizing that it is very difficult to make any determinations on open circuit voltage alone, I will give you some hints. You will notice that I have two groups of four cells. The first cell in each group is a Duracell Procell 2014, next is a Duracell Ultra 2015, next is a SureFire 2015, and the final ones are Energizer 2011.

You, and others, have stated that you can predict the condition of a cell with a voltmeter reading to the nearest 0.001 volt. Now you are indicating that you need to load test them, like the ZTS does. I understand load testing. What I don't understand is how to make a judgment call on the condition of a battery based on open circuit voltage alone.

Humor me for just a moment and give me your best guess.

Tom
 
InfidelCastro said:
Hello InfidelCastro,

OK, let me give you a quiz...

I have 8 CR123 cells that have the following open circuit voltages:

2.993
2.988
3.000
3.008

3.020
3.034
3.029
3.040

How would you rate them?

Tom



I had a nice long reply typed out, but IE crashed, and then the cable guy showed up, so I'll try this again. Here's the Cliff's Notes of my previously attempted post:

Assuming they are rested cells and not used recently, to me it would depend on the vintage and brand of the battery to me. Also, I would likely test fire two batteries of similar voltage and then take a reading after that. That will give you a good idea if the cells are matched and what their condition is.

For example most of the cheaper cells such as Titanium and Battery Station that I've seen come with a voltage around 3.1-3.05V to start with.

I received a 6P from B/S/T the other day. The batteries that came with it were Surefires dated 06/2015. They both tested at exactly 3.140V. This tells me they were probably used together and are likely the original batteries. It tells me that they may have been turned on once for a few seconds or not at all. It tells me they are close to new batteries.

Most brand new quality cells like Surefires, Duracells and Energizers come with a starting voltage of around 3.2-3.28V.

To me, what the ZTS tester says of the batteries makes little difference, because I judge batteries by what I'm going to run them in and not by overall capacity.


Now, I have three questions:

1. Is it true that the ZTS tester uses voltage reading to ascertain battery capacity?

2. Is it true that the ZTS is not designed for lithium batteries?

3. How would the ZTS predict a battery suddenly going bad any better than a multimeter? Regardless of whether it tests it under load for a couple seconds, I still don't see it.
If you're testing your cells immediately after putting a substantial load on them and take into consideration the brand of cell (if its performance is known), then I would agree that you'll have an indication of the condition of the cell, at least much more so than taking a straight out DMM voltage reading (which is your implication from your post seeing as you made reference to a slight load as a result of a voltage reading but not to applying any other additional or 'in use' loads). Still not as accurate or consistant as the ZTS, and no where near as fast.

You still didn't answer Tom's question, which would give me a great deal more info, but my guess is that you can't answer it with any degree of accuracy.

I just spent way too much time testing cells on the ZTS and a DMM and I don't want to waste but so much time here now, but for starters with your starting voltage: I tested 3 BS cells with a starting voltage of 3.23, 3.23 and 3.22. One tested out to 80% and the other two to 40%.

3 SFs were 3.08 (had been used for a few minutes), 3.12 and 3.15 (both new, but 3 years old) - all tested 100%.

1 used CR2 Duracell read 2.90 and tested 20% while a new BS read 3.08 and tested 20%. Kinda blows away your starting voltage info.

While using the cells (subjecting to a load) and then testing will give an indication, there are just too many variables for consistancy: How much of a load, for how long, and how long after the load is the voltage read?

1. My understanding is that it utilizes a formula to read voltage while applying a load to determine the cell capacity/condition.

2. The ZTS is very much designed for lithiums. The newest MBT-1 was designed for and at the request of the CPF community. It added a nipple to test 1.5V lithium primaries (AA & AAA) and a nipple for lithium-Ion (RCR123A, 18500, 17650, 18650). It did and stills does lithium coin cells and CR123, CR2 and CRV3.

3. What do you mean by, "going bad?" If you mean, becoming exhausted from use, it only gives you a good indication how close to or how far from its original capacity the cell is. From there, you have to have some knowledge of how long a full cell will last in whatever you're using it in and how long you have been using it to know when it will crap out. If your cells are new, it can tell you if you're starting out with a crappy cell or one that's up to standards.

It's been my experience that a lithium primary will last longer and run flatter, but when it goes, it goes, usually with very little or no warning.

ZTS tests 1000s of cells and 100s of different brands and they come up with a "standard" to test to. While I'm sure that it's not perfect and subject to some exceptions, it's a damn site more accurate and USEFUL than a straight DMM reading.

I'm very pleased with my purchase and I'm proud to say that it was a Father's Day gift from my daughter - that's how long I've been waiting for mine.
 
I should say I don't need to load test with the ZTS because the flashlight is the load tester. I guess I left that detail out until my previous post. I could not tell you the exact condition of those cells with simply the voltage reading alone. But it gives you a good idea. Put them in the light and you've got an even better idea. But lithium primary batteries also seem somewhat unpredictable, don't you agree?

I've seen cells that wouldn't power a P60 anymore jump back to above 3V and continue to power an LED light for a very long time. I've seen cells down to 2.7V that would still light up a P60.

Cells vary in consistency. Once they go to around 3V it is hard to predict remaining capacity without putting them into a light, which I feel is more accurate than a ZTS tester.


Hmm, 6P or ZTS tester? I think I'll take the 6P.


DMM + incan light is the best and cheapest capacity tester IMO.
 
Last edited:
You still didn't answer Tom's question, which would give me a great deal more info, but my guess is that you can't answer it with any degree of accuracy.

I just spent way too much time testing cells on the ZTS and a DMM and I don't want to waste but so much time here now, but for starters with your starting voltage: I tested 3 BS cells with a starting voltage of 3.23, 3.23 and 3.22. One tested out to 80% and the other two to 40%.

3 SFs were 3.08 (had been used for a few minutes), 3.12 and 3.15 (both new, but 3 years old) - all tested 100%.

1 used CR2 Duracell read 2.90 and tested 20% while a new BS read 3.08 and tested 20%. Kinda blows away your starting voltage info.

While using the cells (subjecting to a load) and then testing will give an indication, there are just too many variables for consistancy: How much of a load, for how long, and how long after the load is the voltage read?


--------------------------------------------------------------



I've been asking when the new version of the ZTS will be available for lithiums, I guess it finally is. I think I've posted a couple of threads previously in the past.

When a person uses crap batteries like battery station and titanium, it's harder to figure out how they will behave or what their capacity is. My system has worked quite well for me.

There is something in what you said that just doesn't make sense to me. I am just not convinced that the readings of the ZTS meter even mean anything in the first place, so if I attempted to say what the capacity of a battery was and then test that against what a ZTS said, that wouldn't mean anything to me. Why do you think it would mean anything to me?
 
InfidelCastro said:
I've been asking when the new version of the ZTS will be available for lithiums, I guess it finally is. I think I've posted a couple of threads previously in the past.

When a person uses crap batteries like battery station and titanium, it's harder to figure out how they will behave or what their capacity is. My system has worked quite well for me.

There is something in what you said that just doesn't make sense to me. I am just not convinced that the readings of the ZTS meter even mean anything in the first place, so if I attempted to say what the capacity of a battery was and then test that against what a ZTS said, that wouldn't mean anything to me. Why do you think it would mean anything to me?
Most of everything that you've said has contradicted something else that you've said. I can't comment on your last paragraph about something that I've said not making sense b/c I have no clue what you're talking about. The entire paragraph makes no sense to me at all and I've read it and reread it quite a few times. I guess I'll have to admit that I'm just not smart enough to continue in this discussion.
 
I'm sorry that I don't think I need a ZTS tester to tell me what state my batteries are in. I've proven this to myself time and time again that I can decide what state batteries are in on my own. All you need is a DMM and a flashlight. I don't need the ZTS's readings and I don't have any reason to believe what they say anyways. I know this ruffles quite a few feathers of happy purchasers and of business interests here as well, so I'm going to bow out now also.
 
It's been some years now..... I used to be a sponsored R/C Car Racer both Gas and Electric's.
We did allot of battery testing with crude equipment, but it was based on load testing and discharge curve to match cells as best we could. We did pretty good in the end but we would go through 1000s of cells to get what we thought were the best batteries.

We tried static testing, load testing and even "weight" thinking the heavier cells had more chemistry/capacity. We even worked with Sanyo in Japan to send us samples from different Lots and even different manufacturing plants.

I think my point is that from my experience you can only test/match batteries by some sort of load testing, even than you never really know when a cell is gonna drop especially when run in series.

frisco
 
Last edited:
frisco said:
even than you never really when a cell is gonna drop especially when run in series.

frisco


I agree. What he said is basically the point I was trying to get across kitelights, but I'm not good at articulating stuff like that.
 
Top