About eight years ago a purchased a Pentagon Light x2 xenon in the mil spec hard anodized. I love the light. After doing some research I found that Surefire sued them and they are no longer around. I am looking to buy a new flashlight for hiking and camping. Alot has changed since I bought my light and I dont really know what I should be looking for. It seems now there are mutiple battery options, my pentagon only uses cr123. I would like something that can throw light pretty far like my xenon, is as bright if not more, multi mode led would be great, option for weapon mounting with a scope ring would also be a plus but not a must, waterproof if I drop it in the river, and also good anodizing like my pentagon light. I have been looking around and came across Solarforce lights, are they any good? I liked the lantern attachment, that would be perfect for camping. Should I be getting cr123 or the rechargable battery type. What do you guys recommend?
Newb here needs help
- Thread starter cambel
- Start date
Kestrel
Flashaholic
:welcome:
CPF has developed a Flashlight Recommendation Checklist which helps with flashlight recommendations. It's helpful to copy&paste the text from that with your specific uses / requirements.
CPF has developed a Flashlight Recommendation Checklist which helps with flashlight recommendations. It's helpful to copy&paste the text from that with your specific uses / requirements.
1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?
____I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.
2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :-)
____Less than $100.
____I’m flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
3) Format:
____I want a flashlight.
maybe____I want a lantern.
strong enough to be____I want a portable spotlight.
4) Flashlight-specific format/size:
____Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
____Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
____Holster carry.
5) Emitter/Light source:
____LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
6) Manufacturer:
____I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a “host” or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a “drop-in” emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.
7) What battery type do you want to use?
____I intend to use lithium primary batteries (CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
____I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.
out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).
____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
____I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase “you get what you pay for” is very accurate for flashlights.
____Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.
____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
14)Material/Finish/Coating
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today’s flashlights).
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.
____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Crenulated bezel
Wasn't exactly sure how to do this but I deleted everything I didnt want.
____I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.
2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :-)
____Less than $100.
____I’m flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
3) Format:
____I want a flashlight.
maybe____I want a lantern.
strong enough to be____I want a portable spotlight.
4) Flashlight-specific format/size:
____Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
____Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
____Holster carry.
5) Emitter/Light source:
____LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
6) Manufacturer:
____I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a “host” or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a “drop-in” emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.
7) What battery type do you want to use?
____I intend to use lithium primary batteries (CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
____I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.
out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).
____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
____I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase “you get what you pay for” is very accurate for flashlights.
____Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.
____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
14)Material/Finish/Coating
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today’s flashlights).
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.
____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Crenulated bezel
Wasn't exactly sure how to do this but I deleted everything I didnt want.
4sevens Maelstrom fits much of your criteria. I would give it a hard look.
B0wz3r
Flashlight Enthusiast
Take a look at the EagleTacs; they should fit these requirements pretty well.
47s Maelstrom
- very bright
- big throw
- 2x123 primaries or 1x18650
- right around $100
EagleTac T20C2 mkII
- very bright (close to Maelstrom)
- good throw (more with the XR-E module)
- 2x123 primaries or 1x18650
- <$80 with discounts
Dereelight CL1H V4
- similar output to ET
- good throw
- uses standard P60-size modules, so easily upgradeable or swappable with other emitters (i.e. MCE drop-in for big floody output)
- pick driver for 2x123 primaries or 1x18650 (one driver doesn't handle both)
- <$70 with discounts
Dereelight DBS
- output about same as ET and CL1H with XP-G module (higher with MC-E, SST-50 modules)
- big throw
- same drivers as CL1H
- upgradeable modules
- can be made floody with MC-E drop-in
- ~$100-120 with discounts
Olight M20
- very similar to ET T20C2 (even looks almost the same)
- <$90 with discounts
Jetbeam RRT-2
- similar output to others
- decent throw
- 2x123 primaries or 1x18650
- $90 with discounts
- very bright
- big throw
- 2x123 primaries or 1x18650
- right around $100
EagleTac T20C2 mkII
- very bright (close to Maelstrom)
- good throw (more with the XR-E module)
- 2x123 primaries or 1x18650
- <$80 with discounts
Dereelight CL1H V4
- similar output to ET
- good throw
- uses standard P60-size modules, so easily upgradeable or swappable with other emitters (i.e. MCE drop-in for big floody output)
- pick driver for 2x123 primaries or 1x18650 (one driver doesn't handle both)
- <$70 with discounts
Dereelight DBS
- output about same as ET and CL1H with XP-G module (higher with MC-E, SST-50 modules)
- big throw
- same drivers as CL1H
- upgradeable modules
- can be made floody with MC-E drop-in
- ~$100-120 with discounts
Olight M20
- very similar to ET T20C2 (even looks almost the same)
- <$90 with discounts
Jetbeam RRT-2
- similar output to others
- decent throw
- 2x123 primaries or 1x18650
- $90 with discounts
gilly
Enlightened
Here's the CPF Specials page with all of the discount codes, etc:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showpost.php?p=2187173&postcount=1
Here's the G5:
http://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=297_406
And the Eagletac:
http://www.lightjunction.com/eagletac-flashlights/eagletac-tactical/T20C2-MKII-R5.html?cPath=83_85
Make sure and use the appropriate discount codes!
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showpost.php?p=2187173&postcount=1
Here's the G5:
http://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=297_406
And the Eagletac:
http://www.lightjunction.com/eagletac-flashlights/eagletac-tactical/T20C2-MKII-R5.html?cPath=83_85
Make sure and use the appropriate discount codes!
darnit, I can't see the discounts page. Thanks for your help, I think I am going go with the eagle tac t20c mkll. Watcha think op or smo and is the xp-g brighter than the xp-e? This is going to be used as an all purpose bright light, kinda like if you could only have one light with you.
vickers214
Enlightened
In relation to your last question this is the rule of thumb in relation to OP SMO, XP E/G, a smooth relector will give you throw (distance) but less side spill, an OP less throw but more side spill.
an XP-E will give a tighter/smaller hot spot and lends itself to throw, an XP-G will give a bigger hotspot but a lot less throw, but a lot more overall light close up and mid range,
It depends what you want it for, I use mine looking for bad guys hiding so I like and XP-E with SMo reflector, and my Experience with XP-g's is ive always had yucky tints from them, none with a Q5 or R2 XPE.
go for a XPE with OP and have the best of both, although XPG's are more efficient (longer battery life) but they usually crank up the lumens so you dont really notice.
an XP-E will give a tighter/smaller hot spot and lends itself to throw, an XP-G will give a bigger hotspot but a lot less throw, but a lot more overall light close up and mid range,
It depends what you want it for, I use mine looking for bad guys hiding so I like and XP-E with SMo reflector, and my Experience with XP-g's is ive always had yucky tints from them, none with a Q5 or R2 XPE.
go for a XPE with OP and have the best of both, although XPG's are more efficient (longer battery life) but they usually crank up the lumens so you dont really notice.
Cambel,
In addition to the types of LEDs and reflectors you have been given to consider for your needs and since your choice is going to be for general purpose, I would suggest you consider all the actual purposes you might or will have for using your new light, per the checklist.
For instance, will you ever have a need to use your light to get out of bed or tent in the middle of the night? If so, since you're considering the ET T20C2 MKII, please note that the low mode can't be accessed when you first switch it on. You'll either get max or medium mode and medium isn't a whole lot less than max. So if there are others in the same room or tent, you'll risk waking them or you'll potentially give yourself night blindness. I hate to warn you of that, but I had the T20 and I absolutely hated to sell it, but I need a light that can start out on low mode in the dark. However, for the person I sold it to, this was not an issue. If it isn't, by all means, the T20 is a great choice. If you private message (PM) me, I can give you suggestions for the best prices on the T20 and G5.
By the way (BTW), you won't have access to the MarketPlace until you have posted enough times.
All the best,
John
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