..Newbie Help Please..

[dooka]

Hi all..

Sorry if this is in the wrong section, I have no idea about torches, although what I am starting to read is very interesting indeed..

I hope someone here can help me..

I detail cars, and I am looking for a torch that will be good to check paint work for damage, marks, scratches etc ( swirls and marring )..

3M produce a torch called the Sun Gun, which is basically as close to day light as possible, so you can colour check correctly, but at £300, it is out of my budget..

Unfortunately I don't know what sort of bulb it uses, but I believe in produces something like 3500k, but not sure on this..

Halogen will show up swirls, but not marring in the paint..

I have been told that a 200 lumen up LED torch should do the trick, but I just don't know..

The question is, can any one maybe reccomend a decent torch that will be good for the job, not sure if to go LED or not..

The torch will be used both at night and durring the day, if htis makes any difference, as I will be relatively close to the vehicle, maybe a coupe of feet..

I have been looking at the LED Lenser P7, as at £45, I can afford that, and seems to be a decent torch, or maybe a Fenix torch, but the batteries seem to be baffling, or is it just a new way to go. Never thought I would spend this much on a torch, but time to I think, yes I know thit isn't a huge amount to spend in the grand scheme of things..

Any help would be greatly appreciated..

 

[DuncanHynes]

Sounds like you need a warm tint LED; a AA should do you well, like a warm tint Quark or Fenix, unless you want to go the Malkoff way you can buy one of theirs for $88, with a warm drop-in but you'd need Lithium or Li-Ions. But even a NiteCore EZAA warm should do you well if it's just up close work, just so small you'll loose it!:thumbsup:

 

[LightCannon]

I don't know if this will make a difference, but what you seem to need is a light with a neutral or warm tint emitter (for color rendition.) If that's the case, there's many choices out there. For example, a Dereelight Javelin neutral tint will put out up to 10,000 lux (not sure what that translates to in lumens, but I'm sure in the ballpark of 200 lumens.) However, it is very throwy, so might not be the best for your purposes.

Ask around, there's plenty of people to help you here (I'm pretty new here myself.)

Edit: DuncanHynes beat me to the punch, hahaha. But the NiteCore EZAA warm does seem to suit your purposes (200 lumens at close range is a little more than a little overkill.)

 

[John_Galt]

You can buy "High CRI" (color rendering index, 0-100 scale, 100=best,sunlight) LED lights. I believe that Nichia has a 92CRI LED for sale, and quite cheaply, all things considered.


Also, a measurement of lux is in no way comparable to a measure of lumens. They're two different animals. Lux is a measurement of how concentrated a light source is, at a certain distance. Lumen is a measurement of total light output. For example, a laser may only be one lumen in output, but it might have 10,000+ lux, because the light is focused so tightly.

 

[LightCannon]

You can buy "High CRI" (color rendering index, 0-100 scale, 100=best,sunlight) LED lights. I believe that Nichia has a 92CRI LED for sale, and quite cheaply, all things considered.


Also, a measurement of lux is in no way comparable to a measure of lumens. They're two different animals. Lux is a measurement of how concentrated a light source is, at a certain distance. Lumen is a measurement of total light output. For example, a laser may only be one lumen in output, but it might have 10,000+ lux, because the light is focused so tightly.

Thanks for pointing that out, John Galt...I did a little more lurking after csshih sent me a PM correcting my little mistake up there. I've learned at least one new thing every day by lurking this forum!

 

[Monocrom]

I can verify that a 200+ lumen LED flashlight is ideal for the task you have in mind. I used my main light to check for scratches on the hood of my new '09 Mazda6 V6 sedan a few months back. They showed up clear as day! I used a scratch-removing compound that apparently washes off after a couple of trips through the car wash. Used a different compound, it seems to be holding up well.

The particular light I used is not a stock model. I used a TLS Cree Q5 head from OpticsHQ.com on a Surefire E2E body, with an E2D tailcap. Good for 220 lumens. If you'd like to put together a similar light, all you need is a Surefire E2E model, and the TLS head. Both can be found at OpticsHQ. (Actually, you just need an E2E body and tailcap since the stock head will be replaced. But it might be easier getting a whole E2E, instead of just those two parts).

 

[dooka]

Thank you very much all..

I will start looking at all the options you have kindly mentioned..

The only problem is I am in the UK, and we get stung with VAT (tax) and import duty, when importing..

But I can get some of the bits over here..

Thanks again..

May I ask one more question..

As I have my eye on the LED Lenser P7 200 Lumen model, do you know if this would do..

 

[LightCannon]

Thank you very much all..

I will start looking at all the options you have kindly mentioned..

The only problem is I am in the UK, and we get stung with VAT (tax) and import duty, when importing..

But I can get some of the bits over here..

Thanks again..

May I ask one more question..

As I have my eye on the LED Lenser P7 200 Lumen model, do you know if this would do..

From what I hear, they're good lights...but a bit overpriced for what they do. YMMV, however.

 

[Gunner12]

Daylight is actually around 6000k from what I recall, so 3500k is not daylight tint, but it probably has a better color rendering then a 6000k white LED.

There are a few UK shops that sell Fenix lights, like the Photon Shop. From what I read around here, sometimes it's cheaper to buy a light overseas and take the import tax then to buy the light in the UK.

:welcome:

 

[Monocrom]

As I have my eye on the LED Lenser P7 200 Lumen model, do you know if this would do..

Overpriced, quality a bit shody, and not nearly as bright as advertised. Like most companies, they measure lumen output at the emitter, instead of where it counts. Namely, out the front. The OTF numbers are accurate. Emitter ratings are always over inflated. Take the number given, and divide by 1/3 or even 1/2 to get a realistic OTF lumen rating.

Gunner12 recommended Fenix. Take a good look at their TK10 and TK11 models. Those will give you the output you want. TK10 works best with primary cells. TK11 with an 18650 rechargeable.