I'm following Allen's Bikeled.org 3-emitter design to build a commuting light. I'm using a nFlex.
Sitting here reading the documentation, is there any reason to have a main power switch to the battery if I'm using a nFlex? It has 5 modes and includes an "off".
I also read somewhere to use high-heat teflon insulated wire for the main LED's. Anyone have an opinion on that, wire size (I'm assuming 18 or 22awg) and where I might find some in an electronics-store-lacking city like Nashville? Mail ordering parts is agonizing! I'm now lacking good wire, a tiny LED for status and a tiny 56 ohm resistor.
Sitting here reading the documentation, is there any reason to have a main power switch to the battery if I'm using a nFlex? It has 5 modes and includes an "off".
I also read somewhere to use high-heat teflon insulated wire for the main LED's. Anyone have an opinion on that, wire size (I'm assuming 18 or 22awg) and where I might find some in an electronics-store-lacking city like Nashville? Mail ordering parts is agonizing! I'm now lacking good wire, a tiny LED for status and a tiny 56 ohm resistor.
