Nitecore Defender Infinity

tinkertoo

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 7, 2006
Messages
3
Location
Tidewater, VA
I rarely post but have been a fan of this forum for a couple of years now. I bought a Nitecore Defender Infinity from TAD GEAR a couple of weeks ago and upon receipt it seemed to work fine except the threads needed cleaning as it was hard to turn. I was out of town, and when I got back I cleaned the threads last night, I could not get to the lower light setting no matter how much I twisted it. The strobe function works fine but, I am no expert by any means, and I cannot figure out how it gets to that mode. I have cleaned the threads and nothing seems to work if that has anything to do with it. Has anyone else had this problem?
 
There is no "low" mode, just a "user-defined" mode. You probably set that mode to the highest setting accidentally. Loosen the bezel about 1/4 turn, then quickly tighten and loosen again. Leave it and it should ramp down. If not, you may have a problem.
 
Tinkertoo, a lot of us have discovered that NDI's apparent malfunctions were due to lack of understanding of its operation. :shakehead

This post will be very helpful in this respect: link

Also, the fact that the o-ring of the head is rather thick does not help an easy operation because it prevents a quick rotation, I suggest you change it with a thinner one like a Fenix P2 or P3D spare one or you remove it entirely.


Enjoy your light. :wave:
 
If you don't change O-rings, be sure you have plenty of lube on the original O-ring. Use a thinner lube like Nyogel 760. Otherwise, you will think you have tightened the head, and have not fully done so. This may result in failed mode changes or unexpected results when quickly tightening and loosening.

If you have a TAD light you have one with the wider spaced deeper threads which I find still need cleaning, but are easier to clean than the original NDI. First scrub the threads using a cotton swab dipped in 91 percent alcohol to clean the threads inside the head and on the barrel of the mating battery tube. Be sure to clean the end of the battery tube and its mating contact area on the head's circuit board, too. ( Be generous with lube after cleaning BUT NEVER get the lube on the head end or mating surface on the circuit board.) After the Q-tip cleaning and before reapplying lube, take round WOOD toothpicks dipped in alcohol and run it around the grooves between the threads several times. Keep using fresh toothpicks until you see no black material on the points of the toothpick. This cleaning/polishing of the threads made a tremendous difference in the operation of my light. After cleaning, reapply lube. You need less lube on the threads than you do on the O-ring.

Remember that if the head is loose, NO MATTER HOW BRIGHT THE LIGHT IS, you are in user defined mode. It may look the same as the HIGH mode only because it was unintentionally set near the HIGH end of the ramping sequence. To ramp downward in user defined mode, you must quickly tighten and loosen the head - TWO TIMES (the first time ramps upward). The only exception to this would be if the light is already at its birghtest user defined setting. Then, only one twist and loosening will be needed to get you ramping downward.

Any unexplained behavior of the NDI can be explained by one of two errors:

1. Incomplete tightening before loosening.
2. NOT waiting 1/2 second for the light to switch modes, before doing a twisting tightening/loosening operation. If you have failed to wait 1/2 second after intending to switch modes, and then apply a tighten/loosen of the head, you will get results consistent with the mode you were previously in. For example, if the head is loose and you tighten the head hoping to get into high mode, but don't wait the half second needed to switch, should you then loosen and tighten quickly, the light will begin to ramp. This happens because you didn't give the light time to get out of the user defined mode into hgh. It will not go into strobe mode as it would have, had you given it the time needed to actually change into high mode before you loosened and tightened a second time.

REMEMBER the delay required for mode switching is not a mistake that was built in the light. Without taking time for the delay, the light has no way of knowing what you really want to do with your tightening or loosening actions. If you wait 1/2 second after either tightening or loosening, the light changes between user defined and high modes. If you don't wait a half second between tightening and loosening , the light changes an action within that mode: in user defined mode it ramps; in high, it switches to strobe. It is that simple.
 
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Nitecore Defender Infinity Pocket Clip

Does anyone have any idea if a pocket clip from a fenix E0 will fit on a Nitecore Defender Infinity?
 
..
:D The MOST important thing to remember about ALL NDI lights ...........

You MUST use batteries with a protruding positive nipple !

With-OUT a nipple ..... tightening the head all the way to get *HI or strobe* forces the battery under greater pressure to make contact at the front end...... so it lights up.

But when you loosen the head to get into user mode - the force on the batt. is lessened - causing loss of contact at the positive end. (if there is NO nipple) Therefore it produces no light in user mode because continuity was lost at the + battery end.

If you once again , tighten the head all the way to get *Hi or strobe* - it works because you have forced battery contact again due to putting more pressure on the front of the batt. - which collapses the shrink wrap around the + terminal - causing temporary contact . ( if it has no + nipple )

The overall length of batteries used in the NDI may also play a part in NON-contact issues.

So I suggest everyone only use a battery with a protruding + nipple when having UI issues and failures with their NDI light.

(the front threads must also be clean - as mentioned by others here)



Thats just MY opinion .. I'm usually ignored.. but give it some thought :grin2:

.
 
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Re: Nitecore Defender Infinity Pocket Clip

Does anyone have any idea if a pocket clip from a fenix E0 will fit on a Nitecore Defender Infinity?
the E0 has a pocket clip? either way, definetly not.

to the OP, i am not sure if there is some electronic/mechanical fault, but IMHO, the best instruction i had to for NDI came from WadeF's video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daFqQjRYgMs

Crenshaw
 
I second above. It sounds exactly like the "user defined mode" is set to high. Follow the instructions to ramp the brightness and you're back in business.



Also, the E0 pocket clip is for the E0, LOD, etc. Do you honestly thing ANY AAA clip will fit an AA light??
 
E2x2e, Kilovolt, BabyDoc, Crenshaw, TooManyGizmoes, Marduke- Thank you very much. I feel like an idiot. Between the combination of junk in the threads and my impatience in turning the head, I was twisting too hard and fast. It now works fine. I put some 760 on the threads and viola it is now very smooth and a joy to use. THANKS ALL!!!
 
E2x2e, Kilovolt, BabyDoc, Crenshaw, TooManyGizmoes, Marduke- Thank you very much. I feel like an idiot. Between the combination of junk in the threads and my impatience in turning the head, I was twisting too hard and fast. It now works fine. I put some 760 on the threads and viola it is now very smooth and a joy to use. THANKS ALL!!!

good to hear...:thumbsup:

Crenshaw
 
Crenshaw,great link to youtube...you're absolutely correct,I read about it quite a few times before I witnessed the video....then violla,It was easy as pie...I purchased this because of your comments(and a few others).Couldn't be happier exept for the crappy clicky(and a little grittyness),going to swap out to spare clicky I think...pretty cool light,what batts are you running?or anybody....I got mine on the new Duracell 2650 rechargeables...what kind of runtimes on Low low...or turbo high?Thanks for all the Hints:thumbsup:,pretty solid.
 
thanks should go to WadeF for making the video in the first place..:thumbsup:

The clicky is very hit/miss sad to say, it is the main fault in the light, although mine has held up very well so far.

as for the threads, it seems to be a main problem in the second run, although, mine is a second run, and its functioning fine..:shrug:

Crenshaw
 
Crenshaw,great link to youtube...you're absolutely correct,I read about it quite a few times before I witnessed the video....then violla,It was easy as pie...I purchased this because of your comments(and a few others).Couldn't be happier exept for the crappy clicky(and a little grittyness),going to swap out to spare clicky I think...pretty cool light,what batts are you running?or anybody....I got mine on the new Duracell 2650 rechargeables...what kind of runtimes on Low low...or turbo high?Thanks for all the Hints:thumbsup:,pretty solid.

If your threads are gritty and you have the new TAD version or the version with the wider spaced threads, try this. First thoroughly clean the threads with an alcohol soaked swab. Then take a round, wood toothpick and run the pointed end through all of the grooves between the threads. Dip the toothpick in alcohol so it is thoroughly wet before doing this. Better yet, if you can find some petroleum based spot remover (I had some old Energine spot remover), dip the toothpick in that. You should see black material on the toothpick point that the alcohol swab missed. Repeat this again with fresh toothpicks until your tooth pick comes out clean. Then relube the threads with Nyogel 760. I was amazed at the difference with my TAD NDI when I did this. ( BTW, I had no need to do this with my old NDI. Therefore, I am not sure the closely space threads will allow for the toothpick.)
 
Crenshaw,great link to youtube...you're absolutely correct,I read about it quite a few times before I witnessed the video....then violla,It was easy as pie...I purchased this because of your comments(and a few others).Couldn't be happier exept for the crappy clicky(and a little grittyness),going to swap out to spare clicky I think...pretty cool light,what batts are you running?or anybody....I got mine on the new Duracell 2650 rechargeables...what kind of runtimes on Low low...or turbo high?Thanks for all the Hints:thumbsup:,pretty solid.

I''m running Energizer 2500mAh. Here's what to do about the clicky. Spray a lubricant on the yellow button and through the bottom of the switch. Then click it a lot and wipe excess lubricant. I did this and my clicky is good now.

I also swapped my tailcap boot for an orange one and o-rings for thinner, orange ones. It's a sharp looking light.
 
I noticed yesterday that my NDI's regulation whine changes if the light is hit, even if I tap it lightly on my desk.
Weird. None of my other whiny lights do this...
 
..
:shakehead ..Sorry ...WaterFalling ,

My NDI does not whine , even at all.

Not even on LO-LO

I use 14500 Li-Ion

Do you have a loose battery conn.( batt. with no + nipple ? )

:huh:
 
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..
;) WaterFalling .. IS .. Fallingwater


Is it not .......... Waterfall

.



It doesn't work fine when you .. tap it .. grasshopper
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