Nitecore SRT6

carl

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ACruceSalus, thanks for the info. So whatever was 'sticking' inside the control ring is no longer sticking? That's good news.
 

ACruceSalus

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I've been unable to determine what conditions are causing it to do this but it happened again last night a few times and then stopped doing it so its very intermittent. I thought maybe it only did it when it was cold but after letting it sit overnight it's still not reproducible. My wife thinks it might be how the battery is sitting in the tube. Another possibility is that natural variation in the magnet when running it at a boundary condition is causing this to happen. But this is all speculation.

I know that your asking about the 6 which doesn't have colored LEDs but you might want to know that the LEDs on the 7 flash briefly at varying intensities when the tail clicky is depressed. In the daytime I have to be looking directly at the LEDs to notice it and most of the time I can only see it in the dark even if I'm not looking directly at them. This is reproducible every time. Another CPF member confirmed that their SRT7 does this also. It's not a big deal for me but it might make a difference to someone else.

You may also want to be aware that this site is claiming that the 6 & 7 can be used as a dive light down to 40m. They have some video where they show both the 6 & 7 taken for a dive. I don't know if they are using an off the shelf model or have modified it somehow to allow this. I can't vouch for this since I've only given it a dunk test for 30 minutes in a tailstand position where the water is about 5cm above the bezel (it passed). I'm also trying to determine how this company is connected to Nitecore and their reliability. I'm not planning on diving with it but I need to explore this more before taking it into the pool.

You also had a question in another thread about how power hungry the magnetic control ring is. I did read about magnetic control rings using more power in another CPF thread but decided I was willing to live with the run times listed in selfbuilt's SRT review. To me it wasn't so much how power hungry it is or isn't but the real world run times.

Overall I really like the flashlight especially the magnetic ring control which drew me to it in the first place and I'm not disappointed with that. It's just that the other things are annoying me and the low lumen LED going out at different angles being the main reason to exchange it if I could have reliably reproduced it. I do have some time on the warranty so time will tell what I ultimately do.

As always I'm still looking for answers.
 
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ACruceSalus

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I tried to contact Nitecorelights about their 40m claim. When I tried to send the information from their contact page it returned an error. They have a phone number but I'm not interested giving them my phone number. Googling them doesn't yield any information that helps. So if anyone has any information that would be great.
 
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carl

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ACruceSalus - thanks for your report. Please let us know what ultimately happens with your light - it gets worse so you return it or, hopefully it goes away for good.
 

shooterSVT

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Just wanted to throw out there that I was going to go with the 6, but opted for the 7 due to the colored LEDs. I love the red LED for when I come in from sitting by the fire and don't want to wake up my wife. I had a red filter on a headlamp I used to use a lot and loved it for the same reason.


Either way, great lights and I'm very happy with the SRT line so far.



Todd
 

Gliderguy

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I think stray magnetic fields seem to be responsible for the occasional flicker or strobing when the light is at either end of its adjustment range. Sometimes just rotating the light will do it
 

thedoc007

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I've had my SRT7 for about two weeks. Out of the box when I set it to the lowest lumens and moved the flashlight from pointing down to pointing up it would turn off. It would come back on when I pointed it back down. The ring was not rotated. After about 1 week I could no longer reproduce this.

I had a somewhat similar issue with the P25. It wouldn't go off completely, but it would flicker if I rotated the light. I was puzzling over it for a couple days, couldn't figure out what could be causing it. Finally, I took it apart (just unscrewed the tube, nothing fancy), just to see if I could see anything. When I reassembled it, the problem was gone. Turns out the battery tube was loose at the head from the factory. Haven't had the problem since. Felt like an idiot when I realized it...I had tightened the tailcap after changing cells, but never occurred to me to tighten it at the head too. I'm not saying this is the same issue, but it would definitely be worth checking if you haven't done so already. It wasn't visibly loose, but it definitely wasn't making good contact, and when I screwed it down, it worked great.
 

Overclocker

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since the magnetic rings have a million detents on them the magnetic detection has to be very precise. so if they place the hall sensors even just a bit off the earth's magnetic field can cause the flashlight to detect the "wrong" detent (usually the one adjacent to it). i had an SRT3 that did that. malfunctioned if you're facing north. worked fine if facing east

that and the circuit overhead that prevents super-long runtimes on low are some of the reasons why i don't like magnetic control lights
 

ACruceSalus

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Doc and Overclocker,

I have to go through a specific set of steps to reproduce this problem but it always happens. The SRT7 must be vertical with the head pointing up. The low voltage LED indicator must be slightly to my left which puts one of the oval cutouts with the Nitecore writing directly facing me. I then turn the flashlight to the lowest setting. I then rotate it forward away from me and as it's rotating the light goes out as it approaches the floor. I can hold it there for as long as I want and it stays out. If I then rotate the head back up through the same path then the light will come back on again. Very strange behavior.

I can see where it would be easy to forget to tighten the head but I tightened it tonight and tested it again. It still happens. My wife thinks the battery is slightly loose but I'm not so sure. I was thinking maybe it's the magnetic control but it doesn't matter which direction I face or where I do it it always happens when the above steps are followed.

Since it's not something that I would normally do I've decided it's not worth the trouble of trying to get it replaced. TY for you help and suggestions.
 
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powernoodle

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For EDC, I love the SRT5. It is small and light enough to ride easily on the belt, but makes a ton of light. Awesome runtime on an 18650. I've been jonesing for the SRT3/7 as well. I didn't know the SRT6 existed until just now. I find the ring interface so much better than a dual switch like you find on some Fenixes.
 

Tapis

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I'm really not a big fan of Fenixes' side switch. It's quite impossible to find it outside in the dark, both visually and by touching, even with the light turned on.
 

Rawk

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Greetings, a few questions about the SRT6, just to be sure I won't be disappointed:

Do you get instant momentary strobe, like the Lumintop TD15X has ?
Will my black AW 18650 work in the SRT6 ?
Because I don't have other 18650 cells...
Are there any other flashlights with ~1000lm and instant momentary strobe ? (that run on 18650)
 
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twistedraven

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Hi, the SRT6 has instant strobe yes, as long as you have its mode ring switched to the strobe feature (far right). Making it momentary is as easy as half-pressing the clicky down.

If the black AW 18650s aren't button top, then they won't work in the SRT6. It requires button-top because of its reverse polarity protection.

Some thrunites have a dedicated strobe button that may or may not be momentary, and they are 1000 lumens.
 

Rawk

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Thank you very much twistedraven !
The Lumintop does it the same way and I loved it. But new flashlights have almost the double amount of the TD15X output, so I've started looking for something with similar handling.

I've looked at many Thrunite flashlights, but I don't like those 2-button models.
On the Nitecore P20UV it looks like that strobe button has a huge delay befor it goes on, that's a shame.
I want that strobe instantly !

That's too bad the SRT6 won't accept flat AW 18650 cells, they're expensive.
Can you do anything to make them fit ?
Or what button-top 18650 cells would you guys recommend ?
 

Rawk

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Thank you again !
I found 2x Trustfire 18650 3000mAh on ebay für ~10€, forgot to tell you that I need fast shipping from germany.
SRT6 purchased now. :cool:
 

thedoc007

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Thank you again !
I found 2x Trustfire 18650 3000mAh on ebay für ~10€, forgot to tell you that I need fast shipping from germany.
SRT6 purchased now. :cool:

Have you already ordered the cells? You are taking a chance with *****Fire cells - the capacity will be exaggerated at the very least, and they may actually be dangerous. (Some cells of that type use re-wrapped recycled cells, claim protection when it doesn't have any, etc.) Since it is a single cell light, you may be able to get away with it, but I'd look into getting quality cells sooner rather than later.
 

Rawk

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Yes, they're already purchased !
http://www.ebay.de/itm/301354108902?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
They look like firecrackers, but the reviews on amazon convinced me to buy them...
I thought 3000mAh sounds good, since I could find 3400mAh everywhere.

My flat AW 2900mAh cells always did a fine job, it's too bad they won't fit.
I could only find button-top IMR cells from AW, but I don't know anything about IMR.

How can I tell if the TF cells are original ? Just by measuring voltage ?

One Olight 18650 cell would cost me 24,40€ over here, that's almost 28$...that's absurd !
 
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