Novatac Mod

[peter yetman]

I have a conundrum.
Here's the pill out of my Novatac 120E.
Before I removed the SSC emitter I carefully marked the polarity of the connections on the pill, then I managed to clean off the marks with alcohol. Short of wiring it up to see, does anyone know if there's a way of tell which is +ve and which is -ve? Big hole at the top or something like that?
Thanks so much,
P

 

[id30209]

Big hole is a reference.
Neg is left and pos is on the right.


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[peter yetman]

Thanks id, big hole at the top?
P

 

[id30209]

Yes sir!
Emitters left tiny leg has a circle in it which was the mark for NEG.


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[Msf]

Hope you don't mind a novice question, but I have played around with modding the emitters and while I had success with one by cutting down the MCPB board to fit in the area allotted (its about 7-8mm diameter), I cannot find any MCPBs that size that I don't have to modify. I have ruined more than I have gotten right. I figure I am missing something obvious. Any advice you could provide would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

[id30209]

I have destroyed my fingers several times working on copper mcpcb's and all i can say that using 8mm alu mcpcb (https://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_63&products_id=1251&CDpath=1) you won't have full power unleashed by this driver and you are risking emitter damage.
A lot of heat coming from modern emitters ran by Novatac driver cause it pushes more than 1.6A (with some emitters even more).
You need all of the things that copper mcpcb gives you heat transfer wise.


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[Msf]

Thank you, I will have to give that board a try. I spend very little actual time at full power, so it may work fine for me. If nothing else, it keeps me out of trouble.

I have destroyed my fingers several times working on copper mcpcb's and all i can say that using 8mm alu mcpcb (https://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_63&products_id=1251&CDpath=1) you won't have full power unleashed by this driver and you are risking emitter damage.
A lot of heat coming from modern emitters ran by Novatac driver cause it pushes more than 1.6A (with some emitters even more).
You need all of the things that copper mcpcb gives you heat transfer wise.


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[sween1911]

I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to buzz a copper Noctigon down until I could cram it in there when I did mine. Don't forget thermal paste on the back.

 

[peter yetman]

Thank you both for your polarity answers, much appreciated.
P

 

[peter yetman]

I have destroyed my fingers several times working on copper mcpcb's....

Same here, I messed with cutting down an 8mm copper board today. I think my fingers are just too big. I got the board to size, but the insulation layer on the top had started to peel back raising the risk of a short.
I've sent the whole thing to CRX in Edinburgh with a 219b and MCPCB.
He must have small fingers as his work is fantastic.

I'm very impressed with what is my first Novatac. I've even managed the 250 click to unlock it. Henry's drivers are for me, the be all and end all. Sadly the SSC emitter whilst pure white, was just too cool for my eyes. I know that it was never going to get used, by me at least, unless it had a Nichia in here.
P

 

[desert.snake]

use a small file, movements only in 1 direction - from the face to the butt

 

[peter yetman]

Yes that was my problem. I used a grindstone which obviously flicked up the coating. Now you tell me!
P

 

[peter yetman]

That CRX works fast!
He's replaced the emitter on a reshaped MCPCB, put in a glass lens and sticky felt to stop the spring falling out. Also he gave it a spruce up and sent me photos.
Arriving next week.
P

 

[jon_slider]

Very nice!
congrats

maybe polish the stainless bezel ;-)

 

[peter yetman]

Very stylish, maybe.
P

 

[id30209]

I sent Steve one 120T that driver went south. Although i swaped emitter and did som tweaking on 17670 body spring, elf was still refusing working properly.
So i sent him the whole torch for driver swap to FW3A and 18650 mod.
That will have some story to tell


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