Novatac Storm is good... but...

[tolkaze]

The Novatac Storm is a decent little light, it is basically (from what I can tell) a budget 120p or 120t (depending if you do the hack or not). Generally the light works really well, but I have to say, that the budget side of things really shows up with reliability!

I don't know if it is an easy solve, or if I just got a dud, but occasionally, this light is a real bugger to get going! and not just error codes from changing batteries, sometimes the light just doesn't turn on. Also, other times, it does turn on from a very light bump... which makes edc'ing this light a bit hard. Not that I don't have a backup, but when my backup is used more often than this light, i don't see the point in carrying this at all.

Also, the front spring (light engine end) is really soft, like... thick copper wire soft. it doesn't hold its shape at all, and this may be the source of the dodgy reliability.

Does anyone else have problems with the Storm? or any novatac? have any possible solutions for me? I would like this light to be bullet proof, or at least know that the 120p is bullet proof, because I would prefer one of those over the Storm any day

 

[carrot]

I haven't had your issues with my Novatac Wichita (differently programmed, but same build as the Storm), although I have noticed if the parts aren't completely screwed down tight I get weird flickering. When everything's down tight there's 100% no problems.

I do find it strange that it appears to do a "battery test" every time I turn on the light on a weaker battery... it'll turn on at some level, brighten up, then blink off and back to the level it started at. Maybe this is normal behavior? I'm not used to having lights that think for themselves...

 

[andrewnewman]

In a word "yes", I have noticed some "dodgey" behavior with my Storm. It usually occurs after I have been fiddling with the battery compartment. The top spring *is* soft. I had to bend it back to center once already now. I find that things work better if you remove the rear cap as opposed to the head when replacing the battery. Turning the rear cap tends not to rotate the battery when the light is being re-assembled.

Also, I require that one *full* reset succeed after re-assembling the battery tube. Obviously if you have hacked the light to enable the programming, this isn't a good solution but for the rest of us:

Follow the "battery detect reset" instructions in the manual but *don't* release the button when the light goes dim. Continue holding for two more seconds and then the light will then get brighter again for a second and go out while the button is still pressed.

 

[maskman]

I've only had my Storm a little less than three weeks, but I haven't encountered anything negative about it so far. It does get significant use at work (12 hour nightshifts) so it is accumulating some mileage. I always remove/replace the battery from the tail so I had never really examined the front spring until today. I unscrewed the tailcap and pushed on the battery with my index finger. Sure enough the battery goes up and down with each push. I removed the head for a visual and a few pokes and the spring appears to be doing what it's supposed to do. It also seems to be about the same size and quality of positive end springs on other lights I have.

I'm certainly not disputing anyone elses experiences, but I have to say my Storm has been nothing but reliable so far.

 

[Liteskr42]

Do the new NTs still use retaining contact rings inside like the originals? Those can loosen and cause contact Problems also . And cleaning everything is imprtant on NTs also .

 

[tolkaze]

I'm going to try and loosen then tighten the retaining rings today at work (if I can find the right pliers) and then clean all the contacts again. At the moment, the light isn't working, it worked fine all night, and now it doesn't. nothing has changed. If it is a contact problem thats okay, i can fix that... but if its something else, then I may just have to get rid of the light for something a bit more reliable

 

[tolkaze]

Okay, I disassembled as much of the light as I could, then carefully put it all back together, making sure everything is centred and tight. So of course, it is currently working for the time being. I think there may have been a connection issue near the switch, the large spring (around battery) may have been touching the outer most part of the switch contacts. I assume this has something to do with the computer control of the light? so I centred that bit, and seems to be working at the moment...

any idea why there is the inner spring AND the current going through the body? is it for computer control? or just lower resistance?

 

[carrot]

The spring sends the signal to the light so that it can switch modes properly, as the Novatac is an electronic clicky.

 

[tolkaze]

Well, that makes sense, I think there was some crossover between signal and power at the tailcap... if (when) i break it again, will use that as first troubleshoot

 

[Flashlike]

...Also, the front spring (light engine end) is really soft, like... thick copper wire soft. it doesn't hold its shape at all....

I just checked the front spring on my new Novatac Storm and encountered the same thing. It is made of a very soft metal. Mine was smooshed down and to one side so I very carefully brought it back to center using a small needle nose pliers.
However--after the flashlight was reassembled then taken apart again the spring was once again smooshed over to the side. The flashlight still seems to function all right but it's rather disgusting that this little spring is made of such inferior, non-resilient metal.
In comparison the same spring on my older Novatac 120T S.N. 23108 is perfectly centered and very resilient.

I've already replaced the aluminum (yes, ALUMINUM) bezel that came on my Novatac Storm with a stainless steel bezel. The older Novatacs (i.e. 120P, 120E, and 120T) used to come with a stainless steel bezel.

A little off track here, but I cant' help but wonder if Novatac will encounter any rebuttal from Wolf-Eyes since Wolf-Eyes already has a flashlight by that name (Storm)?

 

[woodrow]

I just bought a Novatac AA classic...I would like the light, but when the light comes on high, it quickly drops down to 50% of origional brightness...and sometimes it will not stay on. Is this a spring issue?

 

[maskman]

You don't say so I'll ask. Are you using alkaline AA's? If so I recommend trying some lithium primaries to see if there isn't a substantial improvement. It sounds like battery or contact issue. Anyway, if not on alki's I'd change batteries and clean all contacts for a start.

I just bought a Novatac AA classic...I would like the light, but when the light comes on high, it quickly drops down to 50% of origional brightness...and sometimes it will not stay on. Is this a spring issue?

 

[tyvaulter]

I have also had extremely bad luck with my 120EDC. It turns on and off at the smallest bump. I've tried cleaning, tightening, and adjusting the spring with no results. I've tried to contact the seller and NovaTac but neither are willing to help me. Wondering if the 2010 lights are more reliable...

 

[southernstar]

I have also had extremely bad luck with my 120EDC. It turns on and off at the smallest bump.

Is the signal spring bent in any way? If the spring touches the retaining ring it will act just as you had activated the button. Always be sure your NT light is clean and tight, this will correct or prevent most issues seen with them

If you have any issues you can contact Jason at Novatac directly through phone, email, or even the Novatac Facebook page.

 

[Taitsi]

I've had the 120T for years and never had any problems with it.
Just ordered a Storm (Don't know why I didn't check up on CPF beforehand) - Hope I don't get the same problems with it as you have - Hope Novatac has updated it.

 

[herosemblem]

I've had the 120T for years and never had any problems with it.
Just ordered a Storm (Don't know why I didn't check up on CPF beforehand) - Hope I don't get the same problems with it as you have - Hope Novatac has updated it.

My Novatac Storm, purchased in late April 2011, has no issues. Works wonderfully. Only thing I wish it had was the capability to program:
Press= max (120 lumens)
Click= 1 lumen. That way, I can instantly have the choice of two separate levels in the same amount of time. My Surefire LX2 is the only light I've experienced that is capable of this. I can instantly have high or low. I can activate either mode, instantly. No double-clicking or twisting or anything. The LX2 achieves this in a different way than (if it was even possible, which I don't think it is) the Storm would, but I still love my Storm. Just as much as my E1B.

 

[CarpentryHero]

I thought with 250 clicks you can still program the Novatacs ? 
Crossing my fingers, I just ordered one today And hope it's programable

 

[herosemblem]

Yes, you can program your Storm. Nothing has changed. Make sure to stretch your fingers .

 

[Z-Tab]

You can program it with the 250 click trick. He's just saying that he wants one element of the UI tweaked, though to do it that way, you'd have to give up momentary as an option.

The Zebralight UI gives two modes instantly, hero. Click for high, press for low.

 

[kevinm]

I have a Classic and am not impressed with the quality. I have the same smooshed spring issues that the rest of you are mentioning. It just occurred to me: what happens if we cut the spring really short? My 120P just has a small raised disk for positive contact.

Both my new 120T and my old 120P are amazing lights. They will see the error of making the cheap ones sooner or later.

Kevin