One EDC flashlight to rule them all.

jon_slider

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You might want to do some research prior to swapping the emitter - This light has a mag control and changing the led may render it completely useless. There are several threads on this exact subject here on CPF..

I started the threads you refer to. But I often disagree with my younger self.
I now carry an RRT-01 modded to 4500k N219b.

what I have discovered, is that I intuitively offset the lumen drift, by dialing the dial up and down in small increments to obtain my "just right" illumination

In fact, last night I did a test with my HDS and RRT-01. I shined each across my dark living room, to illuminate a painting to my visually "enough to see" but not too much to drain the battery too fast.

To my surprise, and gratification, I was able to set both lights to within ONE lumen of each other. Because I set them on my light meter, AFTER I had dialed to the illumination I found pleasant.

Even more suprising, and gratifying, my RRT-01 was holding very steady, by the time I put it on the light meter...

soooo... false alarm, there is not really a problem with the 50% change in brightness that my magnetic rotary CAN exhibit, both before and AFTER an LED swap. Because I intuitively dial up and then down a little, which clips the excessive drift to make the light a total Joy to Use

So, I renew my recommendation of Magnetic Rotaries, modified to whatever LED pleases the user.

And, a Ti Magnetic Rotary, when they can be found, cost less than a brand new Aluminum HDS.

Of course, if money is no object, and a max of 200 high CRI lumens from a small hotspot is sufficient, then HDS now offers a Titanium Rotary! That IS Bling! And it is even possible to get one with my dream LED, the 219b 4500k 9080.

Now about those 200 HDS lumens.. because they are focused into a tight small hotspot, they are potentially as bright as 800 lumens from a diffused triple.

So now, we have a problem, how to justify NOT buying an HDS Titanium Rotary.. When a Titanium Magnetic rotary is in actual use as good or better, in terms of ease of use, CRI, and EDC utility.

And then there is the pocket clip issue to consider. HDS Rotaries do not have a good Bezel down pocket clip option imo. There is a way to put a clip under the bezel.. but it is not factory approved. By contrast, the magnetic rotaries have very nice clips, and they are deeper carry than any standard HDS clip, with the exception of the Fugly Universal Clip, that I wont even consider.

After all that, I renew my recommendation to the OP, to try to locate a Ti Magnetic Rotary, and mod the LED to High CRI. The specific Ti magnetic rotaries to be on the hunt for are Jetbeam TCR-1, Niteye Eye 10 TiC. These are 18350 friendly. If 16340 is sufficient, then the Sunwayman V10R Ti is a candidate.

Good luck with the shopping!:)
 

TyTEK

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Jul 6, 2012
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I'm going to put in another plug for the Haiku + Tana dropin. I had Tana do a couple TripLED conversions (which I love!) but I also picked up one of his SuperLE's (single emitter) with a 219c @ 4000K. This is an awesome combo! Nice, hi CRI plus it's running the H17F which is my favorite light engine. I'm not sure what the actual max lumens is, but it's gotta be at least 500 (with the 219c). And for those not really inclined to have to do a lot of work modding, it's as simple as shooting Don an email for a Haiku body with no light engine, and hitting up Tana for a SuperLE. Once you get both in the mail, simply screw in the SuperLE to the Haiku head. You can also try a McGizmo Mule or Sundrop if the Haiku is too long. I've tried the SuperLE in my Sundrop and it's awesome. The only downside, for me, is that I can't run 18350s in them. For that I have a few Oveready BOSS 35s. The beam pattern of the BOSS with the standard optic is actually really nice if you're worried about that. Good for up close with a bit of reach to it when needed.
 
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jon_slider

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Mar 31, 2015
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H17F which is my favorite light engine
...
Sundrop

great suggestions!:)

I dont think the OP is ready for the Aspheric Sundrop beam, but I want one :)
I have not tried the H17f, but a friend loves his, and Ive heard others say the same.

Tana may even have some of my grail LEDs, the N219b 4500k 9080
 
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pol77

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Feb 5, 2019
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So many things to think about!

I have found a source for getting Nichia 219b 4500K 9080 emitters. I can get them in batches of 7 and will cost me 7.44 GBP each. I am thinking of getting a batch of 7, or two, so I can mod whatever I decide to get in the future (plus my 2 tripple emitters).

If anyone can suggest a cheaper / easier way to get these emitters, please feel free!

With all your help, I am leaning towards finding a light, shorter than the haiku, of similar quality, made of titanium, with an RCR123 or an 18350 battery. A magnetic rotary would be nice. The EYE10 looks great and I can easily mod it with the 219b, but I will have to look second hand and the carbon fibre is a big turn off. The Jetbeam is beautiful!

Not in a hurry though... I can wait and see what comes out in the next few months.
 
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pol77

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Feb 5, 2019
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Would you share your source ?

Of course. I ordered a couple of these: https://www.banggood.com/Fireflies-...rmmds=myorder&ID=55850441195&cur_warehouse=CN

and plan to remove the emitters to use for mods. Use the coupon code LBWWH

It seems that there are other options now, though. I will try to get some of these and keep the firefiles:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?455954-WTB-Nichia-219b-sw40k-R9080-4000K-LEDs&p=5285310&highlight=#post5285310
 
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Tixx

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Mar 29, 2009
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As Arch says, every design has trade-offs. My personal "ultimate" EDC would be the Coolfall Spy 005, the biggest trade-off is cost of course, but it is absolutely the single best made light I have seen or held, nothing else compares. Titanium check, 500+ lumens check, compact check (I carry mine in my jeans watch pocket/5th pocket), depending on your emitter choice it can be high CRI and neutral (I went 5D XP-L Hi for throw, output, and good CRI 84 typ.), and has IMO a better beam than the Haiku (I like the McR-18 better than the McR-17XP).
Actual carry I prefer to carry it with CR123s for longer runtime, while the max with them is 1A vs 3A with the 16340 IMRs, it can run constantly at 1A in hand and with the XP-L HI I choose still packs ~400 lumens and would require a meter to tell the difference from 500 lumens.
jGy68Po.jpg
PoRxHoL.jpg



With more compromises, my other EDC torch is the Frelux Synergy with a SW35 R9080 219B I supplied, and is the black light on the left in the second photo. This light is considerably cheaper even for a custom, but retains excellent build quality and attention to detail. Very compact with an excellent ambidextrous clip or lanyard loop available, can be had in neutral high CRI stock (I supplied an even nicer emitter for mine), has a nice soft floody beam pattern, and it has excellent runtime off a pair of AAAs.
The compromises with the Synergy though, running on AAAs with a high CRI emitter it is about 120 lumens on high (though that is for an hour), it is solidly built but it is exquisitely well anodized aluminum and not titanium.

The Spy is so often photographed alone or with other Spy lights, that I didn't realize the size and how small they were. I Have a Frelux in hand and had no idea it was that close. Kept me away from them for a decade. Hmmmm....
 

Thetasigma

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The Spy is so often photographed alone or with other Spy lights, that I didn't realize the size and how small they were. I Have a Frelux in hand and had no idea it was that close. Kept me away from them for a decade. Hmmmm....

Yeah, I was shocked the first time I got hold of a 007 and 005 how small they really are. The Spy is more substantial in size than the Synergy, but not a whole lot considering the cell size difference. I do carry my 005 in my watch pocket/5th pocket of my jeans quite nicely.
 

mckeand13

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Common to the bicycle industry, Keith Bontrager apparently coined the phrase "Strong, Light, Cheap - Pick two". That holds true for all products, just insert the correct terms.

For flashlights, maybe something like "Bright, Small, Cheap - Pick two".
 

InvisibleFrodo

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Common to the bicycle industry, Keith Bontrager apparently coined the phrase "Strong, Light, Cheap - Pick two". That holds true for all products, just insert the correct terms.

For flashlights, maybe something like "Bright, Small, Cheap - Pick two".

It's high output, compact size, long runtime. Pick 2.

Cost can't circumvent the laws of physics. It can be bright, small, and cheap. Those things can all come in the same light. The run time will be poor or involve substantial step down in brightness. And just because it's bright doesn't mean high quality light. (I'm looking at you, XM-L2)
Small, bright, cheap: O-light.
 

euroken

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I think it's all relative. What is a bright light for one person may or may not be for another. BOSS as an example, is a bright light at 3000+ lumens but if you reduce the output to a very bright for its compact size, say 300 lumens, we're talking a long run time. Even a 100 lumens for a closeup work is a squinter. But then, what is a very long run time and for what use?

I personally think quantitative measurement of lumens really is a bad indicator for "one EDC to rule them all."
 

InvisibleFrodo

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I think it's all relative. What is a bright light for one person may or may not be for another. BOSS as an example, is a bright light at 3000+ lumens but if you reduce the output to a very bright for its compact size, say 300 lumens, we're talking a long run time. Even a 100 lumens for a closeup work is a squinter. But then, what is a very long run time and for what use?

I personally think quantitative measurement of lumens really is a bad indicator for "one EDC to rule them all."

Let's use your BOSS as our example. Is it a BOSS 35 or 70? The BOSS has the high output of you want it, but if you want it more compact (the 35) you will be sacrificing more than half of your run time at any given brightness setting. If you want longer run time, you will have to sacrifice some of that compact size and move up to a BOSS 70.

To Summarize BOSS 35 is high output, compact size
BOSS 70 is high output, long run time.

Yes, these are relative terms, and in this case I'm comparing a BOSS 35 to a BOSS 70. At a given output setting the BOSS 35 will have short run time relative to a BOSS 70. And the BOSS 35 is compact relative to the BOSS 70.
 

euroken

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I think we're saying the same thing? 35 may feel too small for some for their practical need and the user still might set the brightness to be less than 35s max output. Just saying the term 'bright' could mean more than the light is bright'er' than another light.
 

ven

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The 70 is pretty small for an 18650 light, and gives you the option for 3500 ish lumens(2x18350). Which you cant have in 35 form(around 1700 HI or 1200 iirc for the nichia).

Its nice to be able to use 300-600lm without worrying the voltage is getting low after 10 mins use!
 

NH Lumens

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The thing is, there are always trade-offs.

^^^THIS^^^

What is the primary purpose of your EDC light?

For me, there are essentially two;

  1. General-purpose utility light, for both indoors and out
  2. For defensive use, with or without a firearm
The general-purpose light that is in my pocket at all times is a Malkoff. It consists of a VME head with a UCL glass lens, a M61NLL (60 lumens) drop-in and a MDC 1CR123 shrouded body. I find 60 lumens perfect for indoor use and adequate for outdoor navigation. The body and head are smooth and don't tear up my pocket, and the recessed clicky has never been unintentionally activated riding in my pocket. Using a protected 16340 700mAh cell, it will easily run for over five hours. Of course, the quality and reliability of the light are top-tier, as is the ability to replace switches, use different drop-ins, etc.

malkoff-5.jpg


For defensive use I need different traits: a simple but reliable UI, maximum output and easy access to the tailcap switch. I prefer a 2-CR123 (16650) length body for a firmer hold of the light. Runtime is less of a concern. My favorite light for this role is a Malkoff Bodyguard v.2 head (1,000 lumens) and Malkoff E-series tailcap on a Surefire Lumamax body. Especially for this role, a simple UI and having the light activate on maximum output every time and without fail are mandatory. For that reason, "programmable" lights and those with multiple switches are a non-starter for me.

edc-7.jpg
 

Modernflame

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... a simple UI and having the light activate on maximum output every time and without fail are mandatory. For that reason, "programmable" lights and those with multiple switches are a non-starter for me.

In your estimation, why is the bodyguard better for this role than, say, the E2 Super?
 

NH Lumens

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In your estimation, why is the bodyguard better for this role than, say, the E2 Super?

In the training I've received for low-light defensive using a firearm, control of the light is critical. The light is typically used in short bursts, with movement between those bursts. Controlling the light and dominating the assailant with it is critically important in low-light encounters, but if not used properly a light left on becomes a fist (or knife, or bullet, or bottle) magnet.

For a defensive light when the button is pushed, it must activate at maximum output without fail. When the button is released, it must turn off without fail. In the stress of using the light in a defensive scenario, it's not difficult to inadvertently push the switch too far and lock it on. For this reason, I have modified the McClicky in my Bodyguard v.1 to be momentary only. So far that has worked out well for the light's intended use.

To your question;

The 10 seconds the Bodyguard remains in high output is perfectly adequate for this purpose. I think the E2 Super would also be perfect, but the BG head gives the ability to run the light at reduced output for longer periods of time, should that be needed. I would certainly be fine with either.
 
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