Sold/Expired Open! MT-G2 Regulated 2x18350 Lights! (Preorder)

[darkknightlight]

I'm gone a couple of days and the thread lunges forward. The standard T10 as is looks perfect. I prefer reverse clicky on multi-mode lights. I do want an extension tube for a pair of 18500's. After I get the light I'll check my box of parts for a possible match, I've got 4 different extension.

Sounds good! I hope one of them fits. A little birdie told me that there should be a 2x18650 version of the T10 coming soon-ish too :thumbsup:

 

[ledmitter_nli]

What's interesting is the drivers feature thermal protection; or at least a visual warning. This should allay fears (apparent in the other forum about this thread) about the light being used unattended.

There you have it folks. That road block has moved out of the way.

Zach do what you feel is best.

Edit: Do you know if the mode memory feature can be disabled? Perhaps it's a solder connection or a jumper. It's not crucial, but preferable (always start on high).

 

[ohaya]

Those are the ones! Sorry, I misread your question earlier. After looking again at the pcb and pill for the T10, I realize that thermal adhesive must be used to secure and center the pcb. Regarding heat production and potting of the drivers, that takes a longer answer. In reality, the driver does not contribute much heat to the overall setup because there is not much voltage that has to be "burned off." I am more interested in potting electronics for protection from physical shock; for example if the light gets dropped. In the past I have used both thermal adhesive and a compound very similar to fujik. I have not tried the "thermal pads" included with the lights because they don't contact the components enough to protect them from shock. Since these drivers were originally intended to drive an xml, they would be producing much more heat from bucking the voltage down; hence the thermal pad. For potting in these lights, I will use whichever compound you request. I personally prefer the ceramique (fujik) compound because it is easier for me to get into small spaces between components. However, if you would like me to pot the electronics using the thermal adhesive I will do that instead. The difference between the two is that the adhesive hardens, while the ceramique does not. The ceramique is designed not to migrate at all even with heat.

Hi,

Ok, please go ahead with the 3.5 amp driver for my T10 then. I will PM some info separately.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[darkknightlight]

What's interesting is the drivers feature thermal protection; or at least a visual warning. This should allay fears (apparent in the other forum about this thread) about the light being used unattended.

There you have it folks. That road block has moved out of the way.

Zach do what you feel is best.

Edit: Do you know if the mode memory feature can be disabled? Perhaps it's a solder connection or a jumper. It's not crucial, but preferable (always start on high).

Yes, they do all have a thermal shutdown feature set at 60c. I think that feature may be more useful when driving a single xml as these drivers had originally been intended, given that there is a lot more voltage to buck down. I have not been able to get the thermal protection on any of the drivers to activate though; the light just gets too hot too fast on high. I figure if I can't hold it in my hand (due to heat), most other people will probably do the same thing and either go down a mode or turn the light off completely. I also don't have a heat sensor to measure how much heat is surrounding the driver at that point in time.

I'm working on figuring out how to change modes or other options on the drivers; I did manage to convert a h-m-l to a h-m-strobe a couple days ago by bridging two resistors, but I'm not sure where else to go from there. I have not been able to find any diagrams for the drivers and how to change their modes

 

[ohaya]

Yes, they do all have a thermal shutdown feature set at 60c. I think that feature may be more useful when driving a single xml as these drivers had originally been intended, given that there is a lot more voltage to buck down. I have not been able to get the thermal protection on any of the drivers to activate though; the light just gets too hot too fast on high. I figure if I can't hold it in my hand (due to heat), most other people will probably do the same thing and either go down a mode or turn the light off completely. I also don't have a heat sensor to measure how much heat is surrounding the driver at that point in time.

I'm working on figuring out how to change modes or other options on the drivers; I did manage to convert a h-m-l to a h-m-strobe a couple days ago by bridging two resistors, but I'm not sure where else to go from there. I have not been able to find any diagrams for the drivers and how to change their modes

Hi,

Have you tried asking IOS/Hank? I think that at least one of those drivers (maybe both) was specifically designed by them/him.

Jim

 

[ledmitter_nli]

Yes, they do all have a thermal shutdown feature set at 60c. I think that feature may be more useful when driving a single xml as these drivers had originally been intended, given that there is a lot more voltage to buck down. I have not been able to get the thermal protection on any of the drivers to activate though; the light just gets too hot too fast on high. I figure if I can't hold it in my hand (due to heat), most other people will probably do the same thing and either go down a mode or turn the light off completely. I also don't have a heat sensor to measure how much heat is surrounding the driver at that point in time.

I'm working on figuring out how to change modes or other options on the drivers; I did manage to convert a h-m-l to a h-m-strobe a couple days ago by bridging two resistors, but I'm not sure where else to go from there. I have not been able to find any diagrams for the drivers and how to change their modes

ooOOh... did you say h-m-Strobe for the 3.0amp?

If yes then I'm going to opt for the h-m-Strobe WITH mode memory then. I can set it to start on Strobe. This will be my new jogging light.

I'm starting to get excited. It will be like carrying the large 2,100 out-the-front lumens EagleTac MX25L2 but in an EDC size.

This confirms my mode choice (if doable) H-M-Strobe WITH mode memory.

If not then H-M-L WITHOUT mode memory (if possible).

Can you estimate the hertz range of the strobe? Is it a fast 3.0amp disorient or a slow blink?

 

[darkknightlight]

ooOOh... did you say h-m-Strobe for the 3.0amp?

If yes then I'm going to opt for the h-m-Strobe WITH mode memory then. I can set it to start on Strobe. This will be my new jogging light.

I'm starting to get excited. It will be like carrying the large 2,100 out-the-front lumens EagleTac MX25L2 but in an EDC size.

This confirms my mode choice (if doable) H-M-Strobe WITH mode memory.

If not then H-M-L WITHOUT mode memory (if possible).

Can you estimate the hertz range of the strobe? Is it a fast 3.0amp disorient or a slow blink?

I certainly did I do not know enough about strobe frequencies to estimate the hertz, but i will say that it is a fast, constant strobe. If you are looking for more of a beacon mode, this definitely will not fit that role.

 

[ledmitter_nli]

H-M-Strobe it is with mode memory then!

Going to set that sucker on strobe.

 

[ledmitter_nli]

Yes, they do all have a thermal shutdown feature set at 60c. I think that feature may be more useful when driving a single xml as these drivers had originally been intended, given that there is a lot more voltage to buck down. I have not been able to get the thermal protection on any of the drivers to activate though; the light just gets too hot too fast on high. I figure if I can't hold it in my hand (due to heat), most other people will probably do the same thing and either go down a mode or turn the light off completely. I also don't have a heat sensor to measure how much heat is surrounding the driver at that point in time.

I'm working on figuring out how to change modes or other options on the drivers; I did manage to convert a h-m-l to a h-m-strobe a couple days ago by bridging two resistors, but I'm not sure where else to go from there. I have not been able to find any diagrams for the drivers and how to change their modes

Actually 60c is 140 degrees Fahrenheit. That's considered right about to the point where something becomes "too hot to the touch". Most people could only tolerate 2 seconds before being forced to remove their hands. So 60c cutoff sounds right.

I think the LED junction temperature can go much higher before LED damage occurs.

 

[darkknightlight]

Actually 60c is 140 degrees Fahrenheit. That's considered right about to the point where something becomes "too hot to the touch". Most people could only tolerate 2 seconds before being forced to remove their hands. So 60c cutoff sounds right.

I think the LED junction temperature can go much higher before LED damage occurs.

Good to know, thanks for the info!

 

[darkknightlight]

Re: MT-G2 Regulated 2x18350 Lights! (Preorder)

Okey dokey guys, I'd like to place an order for the parts in the next day or so. Ohaya and Texas cop, if you could please pay via paypal, and include your cpf username, I'd appreciate it
Zach

 

[ledmitter_nli]

Re: MT-G2 Regulated 2x18350 Lights! (Preorder)

I think there might be more turnout when the lights are built and delivered and given feedback. For instance vinhnguyen54 has sold a good number of MT-G2 dropins, but they are direct drive with no modes and overdrive issues. These lights you are building have a form factor that can accommodate both the MT-G2 and the thermal and low voltage protected drivers. The mode options will allow actual utility instead of being a flash in the pan. At this price point it's a superb offering. I'm so there and can't wait to see the results.

 

[darkknightlight]

Re: MT-G2 Regulated 2x18350 Lights! (Preorder)

As always, thank you for your enthusiasm! I can't wait to get the units built and to you guys so I can hear what you think!

I think there might be more turnout when the lights are built and delivered and given feedback. For instance vinhnguyen54 has sold a good number of MT-G2 dropins, but they are direct drive with no modes and overdrive issues. These lights you are building have a form factor that can accommodate both the MT-G2 and the thermal and low voltage protected drivers. The mode options will allow actual utility instead of being a flash in the pan. At this price point it's a superb offering. I'm so there and can't wait to see the results.

 

[texas cop]

Re: MT-G2 Regulated 2x18350 Lights! (Preorder)

E-mail me when its built and how much and I'll pay-pal you that day. When I get to test it, I'll write a review for you if you want? If you need the funds sooner then tell me how much and I'll pay-pal as soon as I get the notice.

 

[ohaya]

Re: MT-G2 Regulated 2x18350 Lights! (Preorder)

I think there might be more turnout when the lights are built and delivered and given feedback. For instance vinhnguyen54 has sold a good number of MT-G2 dropins, but they are direct drive with no modes and overdrive issues. These lights you are building have a form factor that can accommodate both the MT-G2 and the thermal and low voltage protected drivers. The mode options will allow actual utility instead of being a flash in the pan. At this price point it's a superb offering. I'm so there and can't wait to see the results.

I also couldn't understand why more folks weren't open to this.

For the record, I think that Zach been very responsive to all of my questions, including some that were pretty obsessively detailed , both here on the forum and in PMs, and has shown both a lot of knowledge and flexibility!

Personally, I'm quite anxious to get this light!

Later,
Jim

Edit: Paypal'ed the payment.

 

[ledmitter_nli]

Re: MT-G2 Regulated 2x18350 Lights! (Preorder)

That's OK. He won't have to go long, a short order of components to purchase to test things out with us instead of risking inventorying too much stuff that might not get sold.

Baby steps.

 

[darkknightlight]

Re: MT-G2 Regulated 2x18350 Lights! (Preorder)

E-mail me when its built and how much and I'll pay-pal you that day. When I get to test it, I'll write a review for you if you want? If you need the funds sooner then tell me how much and I'll pay-pal as soon as I get the notice.

Since I had this thread set up as a pre-pay, I'd prefer if you paid prior to me ordering the parts. Your total for 5000k on copper pcb, T10B host, 3a l-m-h driver is $106 ($99 + $7 shipping). Thanks!

Regarding the review, it doesn't have to be anything formal. If you like the light, let me know. If you don't like it, let me know what you'd like changed. If you feel that you need a refund, I can do that too.

 

[darkknightlight]

Ohaya and Ledmitter, thanks so much for all of the positive feedback! I've bought items from casual users on the marketplace in that past, and I definitely understand the hesitance regarding buying a product from someone you've never met. Thanks for giving me a shot! I will do my best not to disappoint.
Zach

 

[texas cop]

PayPal sent.

 

[darkknightlight]

Thanks guys! I'll order the parts this evening when i am able to get on a computer.
Zach

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