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Oveready Peak Eiger AAA Head differences

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VeloWeave

Newly Enlightened
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Mar 8, 2013
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Sunny Southwest Florida
Buying a Peak Eiger AAA with Nichia 219. There are 3 options on Oveready order page.

Small Optic
Small Mule
Large Optic

What is difference between these in throw/flood/beam type?
 
Sorry for the confusion. Here's a breakdown of form and performance:


Small Optic - standard narrow optic Eiger head, as much focus as possible in such a package (medium angle/short throw beam)

Small Mule - no optic, extra short Eiger head, as much flood as possible (wide angle/very short throw beam)

Large Optic - standard large narrow optic, as much focus as possible in a Logan head (narrow angle/medium beam). Like a miniature turbo head, aka, Ultra head
 
I have both the small mule (Nichia 219) and large optic (XP-G2 ). The small mule is more than just floody - it puts out a wide cone of light that is perfect for walking or reading. The tint is wonderful. I have this short head on a 10180 body. Very tiny footprint and I keep this in my pocket. In real life, I don't run it on high and the run time is very reasonable.

The large optic is like a micro turbohead. I believe it uses a TIR optic. It has good throw for a light this small. I have this on an AAA body running a 10440 Li-ion because I do run this on high a lot. I recently posted a picture of this light in the Oveready Pictures thread.

Both heads are great and have different purposes.
 
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Yoyoman, thanks for the input. What do you think about the small optic for the AAA body? If you had to go stand alone with one head which one would you choose for EDC (small optic, large optic, or small mule)? Why? I'm new to this and would like to glean some knowledge from your experience.

Do you think that the mule and the large optic are the best way to go from a two head scenerio? Is the small optic closer to the large optic or the small mule?
 
VeloWeave, I don't have the small optic and it sounds like a balance between the mule and large optic. It really depends on how you use lights. 80% of the time, I use a floody light. For walking, for looking in drawers for stuff, for reading a map at night, the mule is great. The other 20% of the time, I need something with throw. The large optic has some throw - it isn't going to light up the other end of a football field, but I can look in the bushes to see what's there - and is still a very small light. It really depends on what you like and what you need. No single head or light is going to meet all your needs and that's also part of the fun of being a flashaholic - I keep looking for lights that are perfect for different, specific tasks.

By the way, I also have a Quantum DD and this is probably similar to the small optic - balance between flood and through, but more flood than throw because of the small size. It is a nice light - pretty slick with the trits, but I prefer the OR Peaks. Much nicer tint on the Nichia 219 and more light with the XP-G2. (Although the new version of the Quantum has the XP-G2.)

Have you seen the movie Pumping Iron? It is about Arnold Schwarzenegger getting ready for the Mr. Universe contest in 1977. At one point they ask Arnold if he likes women and his answer is classic - I like skinny women, I like fat women; I like short women, I like tall women, etc. I'm the same way with lights - I like dim lights, I like bright lights; I like multi-mode lights, I like single mode lights; etc. But just as time has shown that Arnold has a weakness for Mexican maids, I have a weakness for small lights. I have a lot of AAA/10440 (and some 10180) lights. The OR Peaks are my favorites.

Two more comments. I got the shaved short flat AAA body for the large optic. It is very pretty and shorter than the long key body, but a little hard to use with one hand because the body is slick. I really like the delrin body caps from OR. Extra bodies become great cell holders and it is really easy to switch to a fresh cell when you need to.
 
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Thanks. Can you give me some information on which batteries to use for my Oveready Peak Eiger AAA? I think it can run standard AAA, NiMH eneloop (whatever that is), and a 3.7V 10440 (whatever that is). Anything else I can run or consider running without hurting the light? What is the recommended setup for edc?

Also what kind of charger for the lithiums and the rechargeable aaa? Anything specific I should get for these batteries?

I know that some of the batteries take special care so you don't blow them up and start a fire.
 
If you look at the Peak LED website, the first flashlight on the page is the Eiger with small optic. The next two pictures are the Eiger with the large optic. That should give you an idea of the size difference of the heads.
 
VeloWeave, You are starting the journey the same way I did. Be aware that I'm not a technical expert and the best I can do is point you in the direction to get more information.

There are 2 types of primary AAA cells - the "normal" ones like Energizer and lithium primaries. I believe these are 1.5 V. I believe the advantages of the Lithium primary cells are longer life and better performance in the cold.

NiMH are rechargeables and Eneloop is a brand with a good reputation and following. NiMH are also "lower" voltage cells - I believe >1.8V. They require a special type of charger. I don't use NiMH and believe the best chargers "exercise" the cells - discharge, charge, discharge, charge cycles. Many people are fans of NiMH and there are many threads on this forum dedicated to them. I don't use NiMH cells, mainly because I started with 16340 Li-ions and the related gear. I believe they are good way to go, if that's what you want.

Li-ions are higher voltage cells and some lights will drive the led harder to get more light and more heat. 3.7 Li-ions come off the charger (again a special charger is needed, especially for a smaller cell like a 10440) at 4.2 V - you can see how much greater this is compared to 1.5 V. 10440 refers to the size - 10 mm diameter, 44 mm length. Not all 10440 cells are the same size. Generally, 10440 cells are unprotected. You need to make sure you don't overcharge or over discharge these cells. Not difficult, you just need to be aware of what's going on. And if the light gets too hot to hold comfortably, shut it off. There is a lot of information on Li-ion cells in this forum and in Battery University. I use Li-ions and enjoy them and have never had a problem or terrorist cell. I have a simple voltage meter (from Cottonpickers on CPF) and top off the cells when they get below 3.8V - this could be overdoing it, but I enjoy it and Li-ions don't have memory and I have not noticed an issue with this impacting thier useful live. But again, I'm not an expert and this is just my experience. ( Use the search function to find good threads on this forum and google Battery University. HKJ and others do good reviews of cells and chargers on this forum. Cottonpickers offers some nice gear and the threads are interesting, too.)

Lots to read and learn. But I've found the journey fun and relaxing. If you don't enjoy it, then stick with primary cells. And my non-technical advise is don't use 10440 Li-ions if you haven't done some basic research and have a decent charger and volt meter.
 
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Good info here (thanks yoyoman). Just a bit more:

Most AAA lights have various boosters to maximize voltage from 1.5v cells and are can burn out with 4v cells. Eigers run best on 4v and once you've seen 4v, appear underpowered with 1.5v cells. This is particularly so when using momentary switches and QTC.
 
What am I looking for when buying a 4v cell? Is this also called a 10440? Any technical info I should know about when purchasing?

Is this a decent one... http://www.batteryjunction.com/trustfire-aaa-600mah-tr10440.html

Can I pick something up at my local Batteries Plus store or should I stick to online?

Thanks.

Good info here (thanks yoyoman). Just a bit more:

Most AAA lights have various boosters to maximize voltage from 1.5v cells and are can burn out with 4v cells. Eigers run best on 4v and once you've seen 4v, appear underpowered with 1.5v cells. This is particularly so when using momentary switches and QTC.
 
What am I looking for when buying a 4v cell? Is this also called a 10440? Any technical info I should know about when purchasing?

Is this a decent one... http://www.batteryjunction.com/trustfire-aaa-600mah-tr10440.html

Can I pick something up at my local Batteries Plus store or should I stick to online?

Thanks.


I'm using 4v to represent ICR/IMR that charge to about 4.2 and are sometimes labeled with "3.7v"

Cells described with numeric sizes (10xxx, 14xxx, 16xxx, 17xxx, 18xxx) fall into this category.

I don't know what brand BP carries, but Ultrafire cells should be avoided. I use these 10440's
 
Good info here (thanks yoyoman). Just a bit more:

Most AAA lights have various boosters to maximize voltage from 1.5v cells and are can burn out with 4v cells. Eigers run best on 4v and once you've seen 4v, appear underpowered with 1.5v cells. This is particularly so when using momentary switches and QTC.

I confirm what ElectronGuru says. I just switched my large optic from a body with a 10440 3.7 v nominal Li-ion to a body with a lithium primary (1.5 v) and it isn't as bright. Still fairly bright, but not as bright.

Note that another Peak site won't ship international - not sure about the one mentioned above. No disrespect intended, but they wouldn't/couldn't help me. Dealing with Oveready is a pleasure and their products and work are great and they are nice people.

I also use the AW unprotected 10440 Li-ions and have never had an issue with them. I use an Ultrafire WF-188 charger because it has two charge current settings and the low setting seems OK 10440 350 mAh cells (1c). I have a special USB charger for 10180 Li-ion cells, but it is too small for 10440 cells. And I don't put 10440 cells in my Pila, which is a better charger (CC/CV algorithm) than the Ultrfire.
 
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I'm using 4v to represent ICR/IMR that charge to about 4.2 and are sometimes labeled with "3.7v"

Cells described with numeric sizes (10xxx, 14xxx, 16xxx, 17xxx, 18xxx) fall into this category.

I don't know what brand BP carries, but Ultrafire cells should be avoided. I use these 10440's

ElectronGuru, what charger are you using for your AW 10440's? I'm looking for something fairly simple and cost effective but still quality.
 
Cottonpickers charger is much better for 10440 than the Ultrafire WF-188 and I should get it. My voltmeter is from him and it is very nice. No excuse for not having bought Cottonpickers charger yet.
 
I use a Cottonpicker charger for 10440: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...l-Worlds-smallest-Li-ion-charger-with-display. There are some chargers that claim they work for 10440 but they charge at over 0.5C the capacity of the 350mah 10440s.

Thank you LowFlux and yoyoman. I had a look at cottonpicker's volt meter on DarkSucks and I plan to pick one up. I think I will also snag one of his chargers as well. Actually it looks like his chargers double as a volt meter too. My Eiger arrived and it's ready to use. I popped in a standard AAA and can't wait to see the difference with the different types of batteries.

Am I correct in believing that these are the types of batteries that it takes?

Standard alkaline AAA
Lithium AAA
Rechargeable NiMH
3.7 volt Li-Ion Rechargeable 10440

Is there any other batteries or is this it?
 
I have got to pause and share what my experience has been with my first edc light purchase, the Peak Eiger AAA - oveready edition. The folks at Oveready went so far above and beyond what I expected of them that I'm completely blown away! Here's my story...

I ordered it from Oveready and was a bit confused at first with all the options. I emailed them and Dan responded with some answers. After some discussion with Tony over at EveryDayCommentary and alot of advice here on CPF I went ahead and placed my order with them. As my order was shipped I discovered an error that I made in the ordering process. The people at Oveready were more than cooperative and went way above and beyond my wildest expectations to fix MY Mistake in the order. The shipping was wicked fast and here it is not even a week after my erroneous order and my order is complete just the way I wanted it.

I'm happy, I hope they're happy, and Oveready has a customer for life! I'm telling you I don't think I've ever been treated to such a high level of customer service, EVER.

I appreciate all the advice you guys have given so far in this thread and others, I'm sure I'll have more questions in the days to come so bear with me.
 
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VeloWeave, The joke's on you. Don't you know that addicts like company? We got another one.

yeah, it was inevitable. Started with knives, then went to guns, now flashlights, and I'm starting to obsess about watches since my wife wants to buy me a new one (a Christopher Ward C3 Malvern with silver bezel and blue galvanic dial, sapphire crystal and stainless steel bracelet with chronograph to be exact). But yeah, flashlights are really cool, especially the little ones that put out lots of light and slip in your pocket with ease.
 
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