Petzl CRI?

louie

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I'm looking for a simple headlamp from the REI sale and was looking at something like the Petzl Tikkina or Tikka. Can anyone say anything about the CRI, or if the emitter is a common one that I can change, such as to a Nichia?
 

borrower

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Big Petzl fan, but I doubt you'll see high cri anywhere in their cheapies. (And maybe not even the expensive ones.)

Buy it and try it. REI has a relaxed return policy. Just don't be like the jerks that abuse it for 6 months and then ask for money back.
 

louie

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I'm totally open to replacing the LED myself, if it's a standard form factor.
 

Hooked on Fenix

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Pretty easy to damage the light when trying to change out an l.e.d. in these lighter plastic lights. Better to go with a cheap aluminum light online that is likely easy to do an emitter swap like Sofirn (probably won't have to change l.e.d. as they have high c.r.i. options). You can also go to Home Depot and get a Milwaukee headlight which will have decent warm white tint and probably 80+ c.r.i.. Milwaukee lights do pretty good for c.r.i. as much of their customer base is electricians whose lives depend on correctly identifying colors of wires to avoid electrocution.
 

louie

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Opening a light is a consideration. I have yet to be beaten by a light, but the Jetbeam PA40 came real close!
 

louie

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Follow up - I did get a Petzl Tikka Core, and it's OK. The white CRI is not too good, and the unit is quite sealed together, so I haven't taken it apart.
 

knucklegary

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I found the Tikka Core bluish tint with rectangular beam undesirable.. The Tactikka, on the other hand, has a pure white tint with round beam profile.
 

Croquette

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I had a few years ago a discussion with a petzl commercial and he told me they hadn't any plan to use high cri emitters, wich is, for me a shame.

I use now acebeam head flashlight H60 with an other single AA with primary lithium and 90 cri as a back up. REall happy with the combo.
 

letschat7

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When I'm not being a flashaholic and I need a headlamp I almost exclusively use Petzl. I really wish they had high CRI but they are still usuable without. It really doesn't seem to matter if you use it for biking or working some random task out in the woods.
 

louie

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My Tikka Core is somewhat yellow-greenish, varying with diameter. Petzl made no claims regarding CRI, so I assume they use some pretty average bins. Does anyone have a take-apart guide, with LED format??
 

knucklegary

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Does anyone have a take-apart guide, with LED format??
I have never seen a disassembly thread on this forum. I'd check out other forums..
Also, check into buying an inexpensive used Tikka, or any Petzl model, to take apart..

Then post a how-to thread here on CPF 👍
 
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sirpetr

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Pretty easy to damage the light when trying to change out an l.e.d. in these lighter plastic lights. Better to go with a cheap aluminum light online that is likely easy to do an emitter swap like Sofirn (probably won't have to change l.e.d. as they have high c.r.i. options). You can also go to Home Depot and get a Milwaukee headlight which will have decent warm white tint and probably 80+ c.r.i.. Milwaukee lights do pretty good for c.r.i. as much of their customer base is electricians whose lives depend on correctly identifying colors of wires to avoid electrocution.
Better to go with a light that already has high CRI option and you wont need to swap them. :) If you do not have experience and good (de)soldering equipement you can damage pcb easily.

Some (cheap) lights are also hard to open and you can damage plastic enclosure pins during dissasembly.

Actually some LEDs with color temperature together with some secondary optics make nice and natural beamshape with really beautiful color and can be "only" specified as min CRI 70. We have Cree XP-L2, 4500K paired with Ledil 20mm TIR optics and its like that. No need to look for higher CRI unless you have good reason for that.
 
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Szemhazai

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Been there, done that :grin2:

Petzl NAO 2 swapped with Samsung LH351C -> 5000K 90+CRI

Petzl-Nao-2-samsung-lh351c-mod-high.jpg

Petzl-Nao-2-samsung-lh351c-mod-color.jpg
 

louie

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The latest Tikka appears to be firmly glued together, with no screws in sight. I see the seam, but I am reluctant to try to break it apart. Some firm wiggling with a knife blade did not show any movement. Typically, I hit such glued seams with a small chisel, but often there is some damage.
 
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