Pilas 150s and 9v HOLAs

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mokona2

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 20, 2004
Messages
250
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California, USA
I've tried 2x 150s with my P91 (in a D3) and MN11 (in a M3) HOLAs. I do not get consistent activation with or without the spare spring from JS Burly (requires triple clicking, unscrewing bezel and/or tail cap, etc.). However, when I load up with a P90 or MN10 LOLAs, I have 100% reliability. Does anyone have any suggestions? Could it be something with the Pilas (may need to recharge)? I have tried different tail caps, but no improvements. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif
 
I have the exact same problem with my 9P, 2x15s, with the P91. For momentary activation I have to press the tailcap twice before it will light and for constant on activation I have to screw down the tail cap at least twice before it will light. This is with the spare spring. It doesn't work at all without the spring. Same thing on both of my 9P's.
Really annoying but when it does finally light ...WOW.
 
Hmm.. guilt free lumens or 100% reliablilty? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Mokona2,

i have the exact same problem with my M3 using PILA 150S and MN11 lamp. inconsistant functioning and i need to hit the tailcap at least twice to bring the light on. it was suggested that the circuitry in the battery may be the culprit, and that the quick hits on the tailcap help override the batteries. i have a recent thread HERE .

the MN10 works fine, like u, 100% of the time with the PILA 150S. i can only think that the draw on energy from the MN11 is greater, thereby kicking in the protection circuitry. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

for my job, i need 100% reliability, so the MN10 lamp is in for duty use.

Jon
 
Hello Mokona2,

Do you happen to know the current draw for the M3 with the MN11?

Li-Ion battery protection is usually set for a maximum current draw of around 2C. If the Pila 150s capacity is 1000 mAh, 2C would be 2000 mA. If the start up draw is higher than 2 amps, the battery protection circuit will kick in and the light will not light. Clicking the switch a few times may initiate a "soft start" of sorts that gets around this.

There can also be some variation in the batteries. A different set of batteries may be able to handle the load a bit better and work fine.

Tom
 
I just received my Pila 150S from Jon, and installed them in my M3T. I also used a Z58 tailcap from my L5 and I noticed the following, with the below combinations:

1. 150S/MN10/extra spring/"twisty tail cap" - No anomolies.
2. 150S/MN10/extra spring/Z58 "clickie" - No anomolies.
3. 150S/MN11/extra spring/"twisty tail cap" - "double tap" to turn on light.
4. 150S/MN11/extra spring/Z58 "clickie" - "double tap" to turn on light.

The "double tap" doesn't bother me too much, especially using the Z58 "clickie" since constant on is just a push away. The stock "twisty" tailcap is much harder to use if you want constant on, since you have to hold the button while roating the tail cap. Good excuse for me to get a "clickie" tailcap for my M3T.
 
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