Pink Panther by Milkyspit and SilverFox

SilverFox

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 19, 2003
Messages
12,449
Location
Bellingham WA
A while back I was using my Inretech Super 6. This is a great flood light and it works very well in low light situations. However, it looses its effectiveness if there is any ambient light.

I gave Scott a call to discuss the possibility of modifying it. I don't need quite as much flood and was hoping for a little more direction to the light output. I was also wondering if there was anything that could be done to improve the spectrum of the light.

Scott convinced me that it would be better to have him build me a light rather than trying to modify mine. At the time I thought he was just being lazy and perhaps needed some additional income, but after considering the idea, I began to see the wisdom in it. It did not take any convincing to realize that I "needed" one more light… :)

I use my lights a lot, so the design had to use rechargeable cells, and I wanted a light smaller than a 3 D Mag.

Scott mentioned that he had a FBOP TigerLight and had considered doing something with that. That sounded good to me. I was then directed to the Pinky that Scott had recently built. It has 5 Lux III LED's with a Red/Orange LED in the middle. This fills in the missing part of the white LED spectrum and gives more true to life colors when using the light.

I was all set for a TigerLight built similar to the Pinky.

It was about this time that the new Cree LED's were being tested and checked out. I talked to Scott about changing to the Cree LED's. Discussions then went back and forth about light quantity, beam shape, runtime and so on. The project got put on hold while the details were worked out.

Scott mentioned something about working out the details of the heat sink and wasn't quite sure how to "harden" the whole light for rough usage. I was running around with my EternaLight and Derringer trying to simulate the color of the beam. I told Scott that this gave me an idea of the beam, but it wasn't very "pretty." Scott assured me that his finished product would be much better. He was right!

It finally came time to build the light and Scott came up with a revision. He told me that he could get roughly the same output with 4 LED's and using 20 mm reflectors would most likely end up with a light with better throw. This sounded good to me, so that finalized the build.

I received the light a couple of days ago and have been getting the feel of it. I am very impressed. My color comparisons are being done in relation to a regulated TigerLight (think A2 beam, but better… :) ). In general, incandescent lights tend to warm up colors and LED lights tend to wash out colors. I can still see some of this, but the margin is greatly reduced. I have had several people mention that the Pink Panther is giving a very neutral rendition of colors and prefer it in side by side comparisons to the regulated TigerLight.

While all of this is nothing really new, seeing it first hand is very impressive.

The Pink Panther has 3 SSCP4 USWOH white LED's with IMS 20 mm smooth reflectors, and 1 LUX III G2G Red-Orange Khatod20 LED with an IMS 20 mm stippled reflector. The TigerLight premium battery pack is being used, and the light is charged on the stock TigerLight charger. Scott is rating it as an M615. I am not sure about total runtime, but so far it is gone 2 days and nights with intermittent use.

In daylight, on a white wall, the Red-Orange hue is visible. The closer you get to the wall, the more noticeable it is. Everything is reasonably blended once you get around 4 feet away. However, this is not an issue when using the light. You notice it is a little "different" when you first turn it on, but your eyes quickly adjust to the difference. It is similar to the adjustment you make when using an incandescent light.

I did a quick check on my light meter with partially discharged batteries and the Pink Panther was coming in at around 7000 lux.

Here is a picture Scott took of the light.

pink-panther-head.jpg


I have several projects lined up to use the Pink Panther with. I will try to get some additional pictures and perhaps some comparisons up later. After two days of getting to know this light, I believe it is going to be a welcome addition to my work lights.

Tom
 
Hi Tom, Tigerlight platform. WOW! Can you come up with some specs? ma's to leds total, circuit used, lux? Regulated, I am sure. Sounds like 7000 lux would be the number, as regulation would be working with partially depleated batteries. The Tigerlight body is rugged enough. Keeping heatsink/light engine/reflectors/window stable inside body would be a challenge.

Bill
 
Hi Guys, just a quick little bundle of comments before bed (which should have been hours ago!) :ohgeez:

Can you come up with some specs? ma's to leds total

The LEDs in this configuration are seeing 700mA constant output current each, if memory serves. Overall output is roughly 603 lumens(?) if memory serves... or was it 612 lumens? I've got the exact number listed in a notebook at home but am on vacation at the moment. :eek:oo:

Anyway, circuitry is standard Project-M fare but driven perhaps a bit harder, and runtime testing suggests an initial output drop by just a touch (10%? maybe a bit less) until the thermal path reaches equilibrium, then flat output the rest of the way. Overall, the runtime ought to be somewhere along the lines of 90 minutes.

Sounds like 7000 lux would be the number, as regulation would be working with partially depleated batteries.

Not entirely sure of the lux reading, but for a data point, a 7-emitter X700 delivering 700 lumens overall output that I'd measured a while back had been pumping out something in the 16,000-20,000 lux vicinity at 1M distance.

The Tigerlight body is rugged enough. Keeping heatsink/light engine/reflectors/window stable inside body would be a challenge.

The heatsink is pretty beefy and well-sized, plus nicely seated inside the light. Lens is gasketed regular glass (wanted to use mineral glass but didn't have the right size on hand) and reflector frames are plastic, to blunt the potential force hitting the inside of the lens in the event of a head-down drop. Reflectors have feet that hold them above the emitters themselves to divert most of the downward force around the emitters themselves and straight into the heatsink. There's a layer of high density silicone foam around the reflectors to hold them immobile and likewise to dissipate some of the physical shock of a potential impact. That said, I've no doubt there are additional steps I could have taken, given the right hardware, to ruggedize things further without compromising the ability to get into the light, access the battery, change the lens, etc.
 
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Thanks Scott. Another added feature is the low resistance built into the Tigerlight switch/battery connections. Don't have to mod a Tigerlight to reduce restance.

Bill
 
Update:

I used the Pink Panther during some Liquid Penetrant testing on a prototype boat for sonar tending during geological surveys looking for oil and gas reserves on the ocean floor. Interesting boat...

At any rate, the Pink Panther was awesome for checking for indications during the testing. The DNV inspector kept borrowing the Pink Panther commenting that it showed things much better than he was used to seeing with other flashlights.

We had an informal shoot out between a Scorpion, 8NX, Mag 2 AA LED, and the Pink Panther. The Pink Panther left the others in the dust.

I know this is supposed to be work, but I am having a lot of fun... :)

Tom
 
Tom. would you recheck that lux with batteries charged up? I am thilnking that it might be higher than your original quote of 7000 lux with partially depleated batteries.

Bill
 
Hello Bill,

OK, fully charged at 5 meters I am showing 289 lux. That works out to 7225 lux at 1 meter.

The spill intensity, just off the hot spot, is about 48 lux at 5 meters. That works out to 1200 lux at 1 meter.

Tom
 
Hello Bill,

OK, fully charged at 5 meters I am showing 289 lux. That works out to 7225 lux at 1 meter.

The spill intensity, just off the hot spot, is about 48 lux at 5 meters. That works out to 1200 lux at 1 meter.

Tom


Tom, at the risk of displaying my ignorance to the world, what is the calculation to convert the measurement at 5M to one at 1M?

As for the number itself, let's see... four reflectors with one heavy stipple and housing a red-orange emitter... for sake of simplicity, if we assume this is the equivalent to a 'normal' three emitter build (it's not quite, but probably not terribly far off), that translates to a little more than 2400 lux at 1M per reflector. For a 20mm reflector that actually sounds pretty decent.

As an aside, I've been wondering for a while about quantifying the focusing power of a larger number of smaller reflectors, vs. a smaller number of larger reflectors... I suspect the answer is 'it depends'... when I have a little spare time :laughing: I intend to do a modest study with the end goal being some ability to estimate beam intensity in lux when one knows the number of reflectors, which size and type are being used, and lumens overall output generated per reflector.

:thinking:

Thanks for the info, Tom.
 
Scott, the inverse square law. In this case the square of the distance X the lux measurement. 5 meters X 5 X 289 lux = 7,225 lux. Or, if you know the lux at 1 meter and want a lux measurement at 5 meters, divide the lux measurement at one meter (7,225) by the square of 5 (25) = 289.

Bill
 
Hello Scott,

What Bill said... :)

The Pink Panther has a very healthy spill. It is similar to the "wall of light" observed with the 5 watt LED's such as the SureFire L4. I am finding it very useful.

Lux measurements are important to me because of the type of work that I do. I need to illuminate an object bright enough to ascertain the details of it. Sometimes I am looking at intricate details, and other times just the gross details. The challenge is that I am looking for a quirk in the gross details that will alert me to possible "issues" in the intricate details.

I rate the Pink Panther's throw, for my work use, at about 80 feet. Since I can't discern the details that I am looking for much beyond around 100 feet, it is a very good match for me. For reference I rate my other inspection lights like this: my HD45 is good to around 75 feet, my 8NX is good to around 70 feet, my LionHeart is good to around 50 feet, and for longer distances my TigerLight is good to around 200 feet and my Mag85 is good to around 220 feet.

Keep in mind that all of these lights will shine a lot further than the ratings that I have given, but this is what I have found useful in my work. The Pink Panther will illuminate an object at about 279 feet (85 meters) with 1 lux of light. I just don't find 1 lux bright enough for my work needs.

The "crowning glory" of the Pink Panther is the color rendition. People who find that LED's tend to flatten the contrast of the scene will not have that complaint with this light. I will have to see what I can do to show this with some beam shots.

Tom
 
These are photos from the X603 'Mother Nature' build I'd done for MrMom, a different light... and I'll admit the photos themselves aren't great... but maybe they give some general idea of the difference. MrMom reports to me from extensive use of his light in the woods while on vacation camping, that the enhanced color rendition allowed him to see all the different shades of green in the plants and leaves around him, whereas a normal LED light tends to render all the leaves in the same shade of flat grey-green... this for him was a big benefit in that it made night identification of leaves and such a much easier task, as the color information wasn't lost.

Here are my very mediocre photos of MrMom's (not SilverFox's) light in action on our dining room table one afternoon...

X603 'Mother Nature'
img-x603-kt4-mothernature-strawberries-x603.jpg


X800 (all white emitters)
img-x603-kt4-mothernature-strawberries-x800.jpg
 
Hello Scott,

Thanks for posting those pictures. That is pretty much what I am seeing as well. I am still trying to figure out how to best show the difference in some beam shots.

Tom
 
I suggest a bounce test comparison. Perhaps you can set up various objects of different colors in the bathroom, making sure to have something that's solid green, blue, and red. The strawberries in Scott's pics are a great example. By bounce testing, you get rid of the beam's hotspot which is difficult to get the camera exposed just right. The bounce test will allow you to see the "mix" of the four emitters and allow you to evaluate it's color rendition properties.
 
While I have been too busy to collect and post pictures of how this light renders colors, I have been using it for my inspection work.

All I can say is WOW!!!

The color rendition of this light is a vast improvement over normal LED's, and it seems to also be better than incandescent lighting as well. I love my regulated TigerLight and my 8NX with the NiMh replacement B90 battery pack, but find myself grabbing the Pink Panther for work.

There is a reddish tint to the beam and when you first turn it on your eyes do a rapid adjustment to it. The adjustment only takes a few seconds, then the beam looks neutral. This adjustment is an interesting sensation. With white LED lights, the blue tint is noticeable and remains, and the same goes with incandescent lights. The warmer tint is noticeable and you adjust to it, but it is still there. The Pink Panther immediately looks a little pink, then you immediately adjust to it and every thing looks like it is being lit by pure white light.

I am not sure I will be able to capture all of this with a camera, but I will give it a try and see what happens.

Tom
 
Wow - better than incandescent is saying something!

Good luck with the pics, though part of me hopes you have troubles. That way, it will be easier for me to resist. :D

I need another light like I need a hole in my head, but I don't have a Milkspit...yet... The PP sounds like it's the one to have.
 
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